I would like to start reloading for my AR. So far, I have experience with .45 acp, and 9mm. No experience with rifle cartridges whatsoever. What will I need to start? I already have the lee case trimmer, just need the case length guage, and shell holder to go with it, and Im set to trim cases. Any suggestions for the dies? I have read a lot of good about the RCBS X Die. Should I order the RCBS set of dies, and the lee FCD? All of the brass that I have is lake city, so I will need to remove the primer crimp. Any suggestions on the best way to do this would be appreciated. I have heard that since the lake city brass has thicker walls, that it is best to reduce the powder charge by 10%....is there any truth to this? Im not looking to make super accurate rounds, Im just looking for "good enough for the range" rounds. I have some Hornady One Shot for the lube. Im guessing it works well for the rifle brass. Anything else I will be needing? I would like to keep it cheap if possible, but dont want to scrimp on dies. Thanks for all of the help. Once I start with this caliber, I will be reloading for all of the calibers I have, except for .22 lr. Looking forward to starting it.
Reloading .223
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308win
Member
If it is an auto loader you will need to full length resize - I use RCBS but any of them should work fine. I shoot a Mini14 and don't crimp although I am starting to think that a Lee Factory Crimp die might give me better accuracy. (The Mini isn't a tack driver anyway.)
As far a the Lake City cases, if you reduce the charge 10% and work up you should be fine. I have found that loading them at max charge usually results in flattened primers.
As far a the Lake City cases, if you reduce the charge 10% and work up you should be fine. I have found that loading them at max charge usually results in flattened primers.
JollyWhiteGiant
Member
I have used the same load in Remington, Winchester and LC brass. I get very small velocity differences between each of them, less than a 30fps ave separating them. Don't worry about reducing with LC .223 brass.
Dillon has the best crimp remover out there. If your brass is from Black hills then I wouldn't even worry about it as they remove it before they load it.
Dillon has the best crimp remover out there. If your brass is from Black hills then I wouldn't even worry about it as they remove it before they load it.
For my XM193 brass
I use an RCBS primer pocket swager. A little tedious, but you only have to do it once. Works fine, simple and cheap. Follow instructions closely when you first set up and you'll be ok.
I should add that I'm using a single-stage press, a Rock Chucker.
I use an RCBS primer pocket swager. A little tedious, but you only have to do it once. Works fine, simple and cheap. Follow instructions closely when you first set up and you'll be ok.
I should add that I'm using a single-stage press, a Rock Chucker.
Black Snowman
Member
I was too cheap and in too much of a hurry to get a swagger so I just used my deburring tool on my IMI 7.62 brass to remove it's crimp. A large drill bit turned by hand works as well. Both these methods are a bit labor intensive but also very very cheap. Like me 
I have heard of some people putting the brass in the drill, and using the Lee chamfer tool to remove the primer pocket crimp. I will probably use this method, as I also want it to be done cheaply. If that doesnt work well, I'll probably get the Lyman crimp remover for like $8 or so. Its turned by hand, so its probably slow, but Im ok with that.
LIProgun
Member
A suggestion on the dies: RCBS X-Dies.
For almost 15 years I used RCBS small base dies for loading .223 for autoloading rifles. I switched to the X-Die to reduce the frequency of case trimming, and I think they do slow case stretching and reduce the need for trimming once you do the initial trimming.
For almost 15 years I used RCBS small base dies for loading .223 for autoloading rifles. I switched to the X-Die to reduce the frequency of case trimming, and I think they do slow case stretching and reduce the need for trimming once you do the initial trimming.
I find reloading .223 (and most other rifle cartridges) actually easier than straight wall pistol cartridges such as the 9MM and 45 ACP. One stroke on my Rockchucker decaps and completely resizes the case, making it ready to load. The biggest difference is the need to lubricate the rifle casings, including the interior neck. This is not a big deal for me, as I usually wash all my casings after sizing.
I bought the Lee 3 die set, which includes the factory crimp die, and they work well. I crimp some bullets, and not others. Depends on the load, bullet and rifle.
I use a lot of LC brass, and prime with a Lee Auto Prime. (I hear there are better priming tools, but this one hasn't worn out yet.) Most of the time I don't need to remove the crimp, but when a primer pocket is tight, I have a Hornady primer pocket reamer close by while priming. A couple of turns with it is usually sufficient.
I bought the Lee 3 die set, which includes the factory crimp die, and they work well. I crimp some bullets, and not others. Depends on the load, bullet and rifle.
I use a lot of LC brass, and prime with a Lee Auto Prime. (I hear there are better priming tools, but this one hasn't worn out yet.) Most of the time I don't need to remove the crimp, but when a primer pocket is tight, I have a Hornady primer pocket reamer close by while priming. A couple of turns with it is usually sufficient.
When trying to remove the primer crimp, it seems I am not removing much from the primer pocket at all....is that normal? Im using a Lyman primer pocket reamer. For some reason I expected it to be a little more difficult, and to be removing much more than I am.
WhoKnowsWho
Member
As long as when you try to prime and you don't have to apply an unusually large amount of pressure to seat the primer, then you removed enough and it should be fine.
The few cases that I have had to remove a primer crimp from only took a few turns and they were done, brass is pretty soft.
Hey guys...Ive got a question about cannelures. I have ordered some Winchester 55 gr FMJBT bullets for use in my AR-15. I believe these have a crimp groove. Do I need to seat the bullet to the crimp groove? Different recipes call for different OAL's, and not all of them can have the bullet seated in the crimp groove. Is it a big deal if I seat the bullet and the case mouth is not in the crimp groove? I was planning on using my Lee FCD, but after reading several threads, I think I will not crimp at all. Another question....whats the min case length for .223 brass? I am trimming to 1.743".....which according to the wilson case guage is below mininum. However, on the Accurate website, in their data section, the min case length is stated as being 1.740, so by that number, I am within spec. Whats the deal? What kind of problems would one find with a too short case?
No, you don't
have to seat to the cannelure; I rarely do. With the same bullet you're using, I seat to match the length of GI ammo and get excellent accuracy.
Too short a case will probably not matter much except that you may not be able to seat the bullet deeply enough for a good grip. That's of OAL is too short; if the distance from case head to shoulder is too short the case will stretch too much in the chamber during firing and you may get case head separation.
have to seat to the cannelure; I rarely do. With the same bullet you're using, I seat to match the length of GI ammo and get excellent accuracy.
Too short a case will probably not matter much except that you may not be able to seat the bullet deeply enough for a good grip. That's of OAL is too short; if the distance from case head to shoulder is too short the case will stretch too much in the chamber during firing and you may get case head separation.
Darkside
Member
I put my deburring tool in the drill press or lathe running about 650-1000 rpms for deburring. After deburring the inside of the case neck I just turn the case around, look to see if the primer crimp is still there. If it is ,I just cut it out at that point. Just a light cut and BAM, done.
I use the standard RCBS dies and havn't run into any problem with rounds chambering in my ARF's
I have been seating my bullets "to the Cannelure" but not crimping them and no problems.
Darkside
I use the standard RCBS dies and havn't run into any problem with rounds chambering in my ARF's
I have been seating my bullets "to the Cannelure" but not crimping them and no problems.
Darkside
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