Reloading 357 mag.

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Been doing just that,stonecoldy:) But a little more like 4 hours.

I'm finding that out,ArchAngelCD. I checked out the model numbers(aside from the "6") and strangely they have very similar #s. Just the first 2 digits switched.
That's ok,I went over and stole my buddy's shell holder and it works just fine on both primers and,with a little "persuasion",the press,too. This time tomorrow I will have 2 #6 RCBS shell holders. Loading is fun! Looking at buying a used 30-30. My friend says I need one as much as I enjoy reloading.
 
The 30-30 is fun to load for without a doubt. You can load anything from a 110gr bullet to a 170gr bullet in both jacketed and lead. I loaded some great varmint rounds that are more accurate than I am.
 
Actually,ArchAngelCD,I have my eye on a 30-06. It's a pump with a scope that seller is asking a little more than I think it's worth. The 30-30 is a very fine gun for sale by a member here and a gun my son-in-law is considering. I wrote the wrong info. Frankly,I'd buy both if I had the cash:)
As I understand by talking to several experienced rifle owners,the 30-06 is a bit more expensive to reload?
 
The 30-06 is a bit more expensive to reload mostly because the bullets will cost you a little more and you are going to use more powder in the 30-06 case than the 30-30. BUT, I wouldn't let the slight difference in cost of reloading the ammo turn you away from any "common" caliber like the 30-06, .308, 30-30, .270, .243 and so on... Any caliber where brass is readily available and has a good selection of bullets on the market will be close in reloading costs.

For example:
Using a 165gr Sierra GameKing bullet, 30-06 ammo costs me ~51 cents a round to reload.

Using a 150gr Hornady bullet designed for the 30-30 it costs me ~38 cents a round to reload for my Marlin 336 Levergun.

Mind you, I'm quoting these prices using current component pricing and availability, not using prices before everything went nuts!
 
...And 3 de-capping pins later...
I don't have a separate crimping die yet so I just used the seating/crimping(roll) die from the RCBS set one process at a time. I seated the bullets without crimping,then removed the seating stem and crimped them. Seems to make more sense to do it one at a time so the bullet is not still moving down while it's also being crimped. Anyway,these cases were all trimmed to length,though the crimp appears to vary a bit,and all the same brand. I've divided all of my brass by brand name,return them to the same case after firing,and dump one case-full at a time into my tumbler drums so they stay together. All in all,it's been quite journey. I'm looking forward to my first rifle so I can get a taste of reloading a more complex round.
 

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Looking good. You will find that with a little patience you can seat and roll crimp in the same step with bullets that have a good crimp groove or cannelure. (XTP's qualify) Those that do not don't work out so well. The brass needs a groove to roll into while the seating is going on. Doing it in two steps is of course easier to set up and tweak. I do it in two steps in a lot of applications, but not all.
 
Those rounds you posted above look great!! Looks like you have everything working perfectly now. Did you shoot them yet? Please let us know how well they shoot...

Also, I reload for the 30-06 and it's very satisfying when you shoot 1 MOA or better with ammo you built. You will enjoy reloading rifle ammo, I'm sure.
 
No,I haven't been to the range yet. Plan to tomorrow. Those were loaded with a 158 HP and 15.5 gr Win 296. Finally got components for 38 sp. I could find load data for so today I loaded some of those and anxious to fire them,too. I used Hornady 110 gr HP with 4.3 (recommended starting load) of Titegroup and can't wait to shoot those,as well. I can reload those for almost nothing. I have plenty of brass,I have CCI 500 primers on hand,$18/100 for lead and a can of Titegroup should last a long time at 4.3 gr/round.

And I really want a rifle!
 
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