Reloading .45acp

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beefyz

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Reloading 30 yrs, but NEVER for pistol; now with a Springfield 1911. Some newbie questions. Dies; all my rifle sets have been Lee w/o problems. Do you recommend a Lee set, carbide i'm assuming? Cases; lube them anyway?
Do the cases get trimmed at each reloading. Cases for large primer vs small primer; prime accordingly but data stays the same? Taper crimp just enough to remove slight belling? Would eventually like to get around to lead reloads. Any problem with this idea?
 
No lube with carbide dies. Not much to worry about trimming. Light crimp, say .469-.471". Small or large, just don't mix them. Most people will tell you they see no difference between small and large primers, pressure wise. :)
 
I am currently loading .45.

-I like Lee dies.
-I spray Hornady One Shot case lube on the brass even though dies are carbide. It makes sizing easier.
-I never trim pistol brass.
-Same data for LP and SP.
-Taper crimp just enough to remove flare and pass plunk test.
-About all I load in .45 is lead.
 
1.) Lee dies are fine
2.) Carbide, yes, or you'll kick yourself later
3.) Lube them anyway (although you'll get differing opinions)
4.) Don't ever need to trim pistol
5.) No difference in the data, SP might have a harder time igniting some powders, most toss them
6.) Taper crimp just to remove the bell, yes
7.) No problem with lead, just make sure you're belling enough to not shave lead and don't use the Lee FCD or you'll undersize your bullets
 
Hey Beef,

I am sure others with more experience than I handloading 45ACP will chime in, but I will give my 2 cents.

I use the Lee 4 die set (carbide) and very happy. Simple to use. All set up on my Lee Classic Turret. (I deprime on a single stage before I clean my brass.) No case lube required.

I have yet to trim a case. Light taper crimp is all. Just follow Lee's set up instructions. So far all I use are large primers. Just haven't picked up too many small primer cases.

Only issue I have with lead is getting COL set up that will effectively feed in my 1911. Have struggled with LSWC. But no problem with LRN or LRNFP. (I have not tried the LSWC in my Ruger SR45. May be fine there.)

Have fun.
 
1.)3.) Lube them anyway (although you'll get differing opinions)

Just to prove mizer67 right (about the differing opinions), I never lube .45, and have loaded at least 1000 per year since '95 or so. But then again, I tumble again after I lube rifle cases to get the lube off and that would be a major extra step for a progressive. Others keep the lube on them. I don't think there's a wrong way, just personal preference.

I agree exactly with every other point in his post.
 
I sort the cases with large primer pockets from cases with small primer pockets, but not otherwise. I only trim if I'm REALLY trying to max out the accuracy element. I lube 10 cases out of 100, and make sure the lubed cases are the first, 11th, 21st (etc.) cases sized. Beyond that, I doubt that any difference in our procedures amount to much difference in how our respective reloads shoot.
 
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Hornady One Shot dries to the touch. No need to tumble after lubing unless you use way too much....I have loaded 1k .45 this month. Lubing makes the job easier for the right arm.
 
I use Hornady Titanium Nitride sizing dies - much slicker in my estimation, and I have never had to lube any pistol case for them (38/357, 45, 9mm, 44 spl/mag, 45 Colt), and I use them in a Dillon RL550. I have RCBS carbide sizers for most of them, but prefer the TiN by far. What made me switch from Lee carbide in the 70's was the "waist" that the carbide sizer ring left on my 44 cases at the edge of the case web. It was a cosmetic thing, but I didn't like it... :scrutiny:
 
All very good , guys, and thanks. If I choose to use plated bullets at some point, do I use the lead data for a plated bullet of the same weight?
 
Lee carbide 4 die set, separate small primer from large primer brass, have never lubed a single one, sizes plenty easy. Lee Classic turret, I do like to keep cleaned sized and primed brass on hand. If the turret press is already mounted, I pull the rod to de prime, then I clean. With rod still removed, size and prime.

If I am doing a lot of brass, I will mount the single stage Classic breach lock press for depriming and repriming/sizing. De-prime, clean, change universal deprime die for sizing die, size and prime.

If I need bullets and only have clean de-primed brass, I use the turret to do it all, or if I have purchased cleaned brass that still needs deprimed. Have fun.

Russellc
 
45 dies

I use RCBS carbide dies, never lube my cases.
I also use the Lee factory crimp die
I always check and trim my brass, keeping 45 at 0.888 +- .002 inches.
I use small Primer brass for subsonic suppressor ammo
I use Large Pistol primer for everything else.
Gave up on Lead early this year after many years of loading it, and went with X-treme plated bullets. Just love those thing, no smoke and easy to load, great performance.
 
I use Lee dies as well as others. I lube cases not because they need to be lubed but it makes it easier to size them (takes way less force on ram). If your sizing 500 or 1000 cases it makes a difference.
 
do I use the lead data for a plated bullet of the same weight?

Some here will not agree but I use mid level jacketed data and it's perfectly ok to do so. I'd almost be willing to say max jacketed is ok with all of these newfangled "double dipped", "double struck", "extra tough" bullets that the plated guys are making now.
 
Reloading 30 yrs, but NEVER for pistol; now with a Springfield 1911. Some newbie questions. Dies; all my rifle sets have been Lee w/o problems. Do you recommend a Lee set, carbide i'm assuming? Cases; lube them anyway?
Do the cases get trimmed at each reloading. Cases for large primer vs small primer; prime accordingly but data stays the same? Taper crimp just enough to remove slight belling? Would eventually like to get around to lead reloads. Any problem with this idea?

Lee dies are fine. i do not use them because i do not like the lock rings but you are already familiar with them.

With carbide sizing dies, you do not need to lubricate the cases. I do not lubricate 45 ACP cases but I have found a little spritz of lubricant helps with large cases such as 45 Colt or 44 Magnum.

I do not trim my hand gun cases. They really do not grow like rifle cases. Revolver cases can benefit from an initial trimming to make the length the same. This helps make a uniform roll crimp. It is not so important with taper crimp.

Yes, the taper crimp removes the belling of the case mouth. It really does nothing for neck tension.

I prefer to taper crimp in a separate operation. A habit left over when auto pistol seater dies often had roll crimps machined in them. (I still have my 45 ACP die with a roll crimp.) With a seater die with a taper crimp, seating and crimping can be done in the same step.

I still have oceans of large primer 45 ACP cases and I do not shoot where there are any small primer cases to be scavenged. So I have no experience with small primer 45 ACP cases.

With lead bullets, you may need to bell the case mouth a little more. Also, chamfer the inside of the case mouth it will help prevent shaving lea from the bullet.
 
45acp is one of the easiest to reload.

I prefer the TiNi by Hornady. These dies are far slicker than any others. Requires about 50% less force than carbide, the reason some use lube. Very noticeable if you loading on a progressive or AP. And do not require any lube. I'm not a fan of Lee dies, their locking rings are junk. And may require you to reset your dies for every use unless you replace it with a Split ring type. The only pistol brass I ever trim is those requiring a roll crimp. Lead will require the mouth to be expanded more than plated or jacketed. LSWC are best seated using a seating stem that pushes on the shoulder. The std seating stem that contacts the ogive will give you some variations in OAL but is good for most.

You should sort by primer size. The SP will produce about 20-30 less velocity.

Some dies sets have a Roll crimp and not Taper crimp. I use a separate TC die. Much easier to control the OAL when done in a separate step.
 
Lube, no lube...personal preference. Not needed, but doesn't hurt anything either. I also gave up loading lead for the most part. I shoot indoors 95% of the time and I just got tired of the smoke screen from the bullet lube. I went to X-treme plated and I am very happy with them. In my experience they can be pushed pretty hard. I use fmj data and have had no issues in 9mm, 45acp and 38sp.
 
I have RCBS, Lyman, Hornaday and Lee dies on my LNL AP set up for 9mm...Looking at the same setup when I switch over to .45 or .38/.357.

I do give the cases a light spritz of Hornady One-Shot, then swirl them a bit, before I run them into my RBCS Carbide sizer...the dry lube just makes the cases slide in smoother.

I expand with the Lyman neck expanding (M) die...holds bullets well without flaring the brass; especially designed for lead bullets

Seat with the Hornady seating die...the sliding collar keeps the bullet aligned

Taper crimp in a Lee FCD, just enough to restore original shape...I'm very aware of neck tension
 
I use the Lee 4 die set.
No lube for .45 APC on Lee turrent press.
I tried some of RMR 230 plated the other day. I really liked them.
See this post
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=761471
They offer THR members 5% discount.
I have also used Missouri Bullet 200gr SWC. If your gun feeds SWCs well these are a good choice. I believe they have them in both coated and uncoated. They aslo offer THR members a 5% discount.

I am sure you will enjoy loading for youir pistol.
 
Thanks again to all, guys. can't wait to get started.
Have all components 'cept b(oo)ullets. Can't believe it, but found Power pistol, HP 38 in lieu of W231, and Titegroup, and have already some Unique, Universal, HS6.
Will probably go with a 200 and/or 230 fmj or Rn at first, then moving on to try plated (Berry's &/or RMR, x-treme) and/or lead (MB) in same weights.
Does the .45 acp handle truncated, RNFP, & SWCs as well or should I stick with RNs & FMJs? I know possible answer is to try and see but my question is "in general" 'cause many of the retailers will not sell a 25/50 tester bag of the others to find out.
 
All guns are different when it come to feeding ammo. Some are picky some are not. Mine (Kart Barrel) loves the LSWC. I shoot the MBC #2 (185gr) using WST at BE level loads, very soft. HP38/231 will be just fine for LSWC. Barrel fit is key when it comes to shooting lead. Slug your barrel to confirm size before ordering. The std size for lead is 0.452" which is 0.001" over what it slugs.
 
Years since I reloaded, anything, but what I do remember, 45ACP, Tumble decap, cast my own, 200g Hensley & Gibbs 68? not sure on the # but semi-wad cutter, would cut a hole in an IPSC target you could see at 25yds!

DuPont 700X, 5.2g, behind that 200g projectile. I loaded 10 rounds one Christmas, then ten rounds the next one, kept them together, measured the velocity, 10 rounds, against the other. Added each ten together, the difference between them, incredibly, 8ft per second, velocity difference.

And I used to buy the Powder, in 12lb kegs! Loaded my .38 Spl. for my classes, my .32S&W target, and my .45ACP.

Walking down memory lane!
 
Not much to add that hasn't already been said.

Titegroup is one of my favorite powders for 45acp.

I've done extensive comparison between small and large primers. All load data that I have ever found is for large primers. There is a difference, though in most cases it is negligible (~30fps less). You should not have any problems using Titegroup with either primer. With some powders (PB for instance) I saw over 100 fps difference at lower charges. Using small magnum primers made up most of that difference. Whether you use large or small, always work up your loads incrementally.

FWIW, for some loads I found lower standard deviations with small primers.
 
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