Driftertank
Member
A reloader just needs to realize whether they're driving a Honda Civic or a Peterbilt.
Easy. Peterbilts don't have VTEC....
(I apologize profusely for that. I couldnt resist...)
A reloader just needs to realize whether they're driving a Honda Civic or a Peterbilt.
Easy. Peterbilts don't have VTEC....
(I apologize profusely for that. I couldnt resist...)
Extrapolating to watches, the man who has a watch knows what time it is. The man who has two is never sure.I, have heard many times, read the manuals and you will learn. I have read and looked at some of the manuals. They are all different. For instance, take a starting load. One will say 12.7 grans of a powder and another will say 15.3. Can any one tell us beginners how to do what we need to do? Thank You for helping.
A reloader just needs to realize whether they're driving a Honda Civic or a Peterbilt.
Easy. Peterbilts don't have VTEC....
If you're on icy roads with a 84,000lb 18wheeler in heavy traffic
Then you are overweight. Max weight for a typical 18-wheeler is 80,000lb.
All Reloaders are a bit obsessive compulsive about their process,
Then you are overweight. Max weight for a typical 18-wheeler is 80,000lb.
Varminterror just proved my point on how differently some people approach reloading. He is clearly reserved in what data he uses by using data only for that particular bullet, which is admittedly best, but sometimes a bullet is not listed anywhere. You heard about Whizbang Doomaflotchie and somehow aquired a box in the correct caliber for whatever you are loading...do you sit and wait for data as some folks do, or do you know that this bullet is nearly identical to the one Hornady makes. Your calipers tell you it’s the same, all of the specs are the same, it’s just got a square hollow tip rather than round. Do you load based on Hornady data (starting light working up etc) or do you wait for data that specifically lists that fancy new bullet from Whizbang?
To add: regardless of book you use, when getting within, say .6 grains of their max load, look at cartridges verry closely. If you see a partial moon indentation, you are at critical. Would advise studying all you can about detecting pressure signs-and there are several...seriously.
This seems a current approach. "I loaded it up till I had to take a Stilson wrench to the bolt, then backed off half a grain."
Back when pressure test equipment was expensive, even for a bullet company, the Speer load development procedure was to increase the load until they got ONE clear "pressure sign" of the several known, then reduced by 6% and listed that as Maximum.
I know a Master class Long Range shooter who considerably overloads in a search for the least windage possible, then complains about short brass life.
There was one wildcatter who was thought kind of wild and crazy but if you followed his instructions for his blown out cases, you would get minimum ten loads out of a case. One prominent gunzine writer now thinks five is enough.
Since your starting out be aware that OAL will affect pressure. The deeper a bullet is in the case the less space there is in the case, less space in the case = higher pressure with the same charge.
To give quick example going form a 9mm round with the QAL a 1.10 to 1.06 inccreased velocity about 50 fps. About the same as if I had increased the powder charge .1 or .2 gr on the 1.10 load.
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Agreed, when a guy gets close to the edge, care needs to be taken.
But I don't like to throw out generalizations for "how close is close?" because not all cases and not all powders are the same. So this is an area where I encourage new reloaders to really understand their cartridges and be aware of the implications of what they're doing before they take on solo reloading.
To elaborate for the new reloaders via a few examples: in small case cartridges like 221FB, we only have about 1.5grn span between starting and max loads. Each .1grn is a pretty sizable percentage of the spread. For small case pistol cartridges, the starting-to-max spread might only be 0.8-1.0grn. So for small cases, 0.6grn margin is way too much. Alternatively, when I'm loading 300RUM or Wby, let alone 338 Edge or Lapua, there might be 6 grains from min to max, I might need to start looking for pressure signs more than a full grain below max. And of course, to further complicate things, there are a LOT of older cartridges which have incredibly conservative pressure standards compared to the ability of modern firearms - as examples, someone reloading 45-70 for the Marlin 1895 or a 45colt for a Ruger Redhawk have a LOT of room in the capacity of their firearms and can press up against maximum manual data with much less concern than someone loading 300WSM or 454Casull. I think about approaching a stoplight - if you're on dry roads in a lightweight car with no other traffic, slamming on the brakes right before the light isn't very risky. If you're on icy roads with a 84,000lb 18wheeler in heavy traffic, a guy needs to start braking much earlier before the light. A reloader just needs to realize whether they're driving a Honda Civic or a Peterbilt.
Just because it works for them, does not always mean it will work exactly the same for you. Base it on your own test and loading logs and notes. Comparison is great. As a matter of fact, about a year ago @Dudedog and I were comparing notes on a specific powder and we had way different numbers. I mean WAY different.
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Amazed re: narrow load window for the Fireball. Do you use a high end scale to get down to three digit readings? Or perhaps I should just ask what scale you do use.
I am new to reloading- coming up on 3 years and even though 3 years seems like a long time, it isn't very long in the reloading world. I learn something just about every time I log on here. This isn't something that you can read in a book or books and go "A-ha! I get it". It takes dedicated time, effort, research, trial and error and so much more.
I am originally from Dayton, we were neighbors 25 years ago, now I reside in Texas. Keep loading our friend from the state that is round on both ends and hi in the middle. I suggest you pay attention to details in the manuals and possibly look up you tube videos that may specifically address this issue. You tube is a great free school of higher learning. I have gotten degrees, er uh lessons from fixing washers to reloading. Fun stuff to watch.Thank You, WestKentucky for the invite for a lesson, however I live to far from you, I am in Canton, Ohio.