I'm starting to get ready to load some 223. I am getting some ingredients to make my own case lube. I am looking to buy the giraud tri way trimmer. I bought the lee 4 die set for 223. I ordered a universal decapping die. I heard that a case gage makes things easier, but I see some for cartridge gage and some for length and headspace. Which do I need to get? Plus any other helpful tips would be really appreciated.
Reloading for 223 question
- Thread starter DCraig07
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witchhunter
Member
Buy some case lube, you can use Imperial or RCBS lube and it works great. Why bother making your own when a can of Imperial will last 5-10 years? You may need a primer pocket swager if you are using military crimped brass. Really, the die adjustment is the most important. Make sure you seat the primers fully and get a load manual.
I got a gauge that checks headspace and length. I think I might be learning (based on some reading-between-the-lines in various forums) that a headspace gauge checks the headspace of the *rifle*. It's the case gauge to make sure the cartridge is within spec.
I'm very glad I got the case gauge. In another post you might have noticed I posted/asked about the fact that about 1-2% of my cases are not sized correctly. (Don't pass the case gauge test.) It looks like I don't have my sizing die set up quite correctly. The point/bottom line: I'm much more confident and relaxed having put every one of my shells through the gauge - basically sure things are right before they make it into the rifle.
Also, I don't use the length capability of the gauge. I was concerned it wasn't accurate enough. I still use calipers to check case length and trim as needed.
Using the gauge has added a step to an already-long case prep process. But like I said, I love knowing that I'm making (hopefully) high quality stuff.
OR
I'm very glad I got the case gauge. In another post you might have noticed I posted/asked about the fact that about 1-2% of my cases are not sized correctly. (Don't pass the case gauge test.) It looks like I don't have my sizing die set up quite correctly. The point/bottom line: I'm much more confident and relaxed having put every one of my shells through the gauge - basically sure things are right before they make it into the rifle.
Also, I don't use the length capability of the gauge. I was concerned it wasn't accurate enough. I still use calipers to check case length and trim as needed.
Using the gauge has added a step to an already-long case prep process. But like I said, I love knowing that I'm making (hopefully) high quality stuff.
OR
medalguy
Member
I wouldn't load without a case gauge. That checks the neck setback and length easily, and both are equally important. It's not really necessary to check every single case, so I check every tenth case.
You can use a 13/64" drill bit for removing crimped primer pockets very quickly. I also use a Little Crow Gun Works World's Finest Trimmer for brass trimming. It looks like the same thing as the giraud, but you could save a little cash.
oldreloader
Member
I agree. I've never stuck a case with Imperial..
My kit came with some lee lube, but I got everything but lanoine free from work so I'm going to give it a shot. I've read a lot about the hornady headspace tool is that worth checking out? I will look into getting the I e wilson case gage. That's the one I've read most people are liking.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Buy the L. E. Wilson type case gage.
That's all you need.
rc
That's all you need.
rc
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
I do not recommend a drill bit for removing primer pocket crimps.
There really are none the right size.
It does nothing to chamfer the edge to make primer seating easier.
Besides that?
A 13/64" drill bit is .203".
And a Small Rifle primer pocket is .210".
If nothing else, you can trim out crimp with a sharp pocket knife blade.
Or better yet, the pointy end of your chamfer & deburring tool.
Or even a good fresh Phillips screwdriver!
All much better options then an undersize drill bitt!
rc
There really are none the right size.
It does nothing to chamfer the edge to make primer seating easier.
Besides that?
A 13/64" drill bit is .203".
And a Small Rifle primer pocket is .210".
If nothing else, you can trim out crimp with a sharp pocket knife blade.
Or better yet, the pointy end of your chamfer & deburring tool.
Or even a good fresh Phillips screwdriver!
All much better options then an undersize drill bitt!
rc
If you insist on useing a "tubed" type gauge, get one that will tell you all you need to know, not just some of what you need to know.
http://www.sheridanengineering.com/images/SG223REM_2.jpg
If you are loading for a bolt action, no need for any gauge.
If you are loading for a semi-auto, No need for the Collet Neck sizing die that comes with the 4 die set.
Here is a good read on loading for semi-autos.
http://www.exteriorballistics.com/reloadbasics/gasgunreload.cfm
http://www.sheridanengineering.com/images/SG223REM_2.jpg
If you are loading for a bolt action, no need for any gauge.
If you are loading for a semi-auto, No need for the Collet Neck sizing die that comes with the 4 die set.
Here is a good read on loading for semi-autos.
http://www.exteriorballistics.com/reloadbasics/gasgunreload.cfm
gamestalker
member
Sticking a case in a die on your first stroke of the press sure would be a bad way to start out in this hobby, wouldn't it? Free lanolin or not, just use a labeled lube for now.
GS
GS
- Giraud (+ mucho)
- Homeade case lube (don't bother: Get RCBS and/or Imperial)
- Gauge (Get Hornady's Headspace Gauge Set to set the sizing die precisely* to match the specific rifle's chamber for each loading session.)
* with "digital precision"
- Homeade case lube (don't bother: Get RCBS and/or Imperial)
- Gauge (Get Hornady's Headspace Gauge Set to set the sizing die precisely* to match the specific rifle's chamber for each loading session.)
* with "digital precision"
W.E.G.
Member
If you don't use a case gage when sizing bottleneck rifle brass, it's just a matter of time until you have rounds that won't chamber or lots of head separations.
Giraud tri way trimmer ROCKS... i also have a WFT and its nice, but the Giraud Deburs and Chamfers all in 1 step.... worth the $90
I also do my Home brew Lube... best I have ever used to date....
Also get a headspace Guage... makes a big difference in verifying yer brass is set correctly..
Get a good system to Prep yer Brass..... Prepping is Most time consuming so get a good sytem, with good Components, and speed does help... I trim my brass about every 3-4x I shoot it...ish....
I use a chamfer bit to hit the primer pocket, works great and fast in a drill...
You also dont need to Crimp .223 Brass, some do, but most dont, if you do you need to trim each time ya load it... FYI
what Press are ya using.... Priming can be a challenge sometimes on a press due to Primer Pockets.. so may think about Hand Priming...
Good Luck....
stav
I also do my Home brew Lube... best I have ever used to date....
Also get a headspace Guage... makes a big difference in verifying yer brass is set correctly..
Get a good system to Prep yer Brass..... Prepping is Most time consuming so get a good sytem, with good Components, and speed does help... I trim my brass about every 3-4x I shoot it...ish....
I use a chamfer bit to hit the primer pocket, works great and fast in a drill...
You also dont need to Crimp .223 Brass, some do, but most dont, if you do you need to trim each time ya load it... FYI
what Press are ya using.... Priming can be a challenge sometimes on a press due to Primer Pockets.. so may think about Hand Priming...
Good Luck....
stav
sirgilligan
Member
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I am new at this as well. I had followed the directions on setting up the die and sized some .223 brass. Then as I read more I became concerned about shoulder set back, and how the shoulder of the case is what stops the case's forward movement into the chamber which in turn defines the space between the bolt face and the head.
So I ordered a Dillon case gauge and dropped them in. Sure enough the case head was well below the gauge. Oops. But at least I know. I use the length feature as well, I run my finger nail across it to feel. I trimmed all of my cases, some didn't have any material trim off, some did, but I use the case gauge all the time. I have it setting there and when I primed the cases I dropped them in again, and guess what, I found one case out of almost 100 that hadn't been resized. Go figure. So, I use it all the time. I just used it again when I charged and seated 15 rounds to work up my first loads.
Case lube lasts so long that I am not sure if I would make my own. I actually dread the idea of a stuck case. I grew up on a farm and I have a knack for breaking machinery, too much torque and snap off bolt heads and then out come the drill and easy-out and my Dad scowling...
I seated the primers with a hand tool. Out of the entire process the primers get my respect and attention immediately.
So I ordered a Dillon case gauge and dropped them in. Sure enough the case head was well below the gauge. Oops. But at least I know. I use the length feature as well, I run my finger nail across it to feel. I trimmed all of my cases, some didn't have any material trim off, some did, but I use the case gauge all the time. I have it setting there and when I primed the cases I dropped them in again, and guess what, I found one case out of almost 100 that hadn't been resized. Go figure. So, I use it all the time. I just used it again when I charged and seated 15 rounds to work up my first loads.
Case lube lasts so long that I am not sure if I would make my own. I actually dread the idea of a stuck case. I grew up on a farm and I have a knack for breaking machinery, too much torque and snap off bolt heads and then out come the drill and easy-out and my Dad scowling...
I seated the primers with a hand tool. Out of the entire process the primers get my respect and attention immediately.
I wasn't clear in the original post. I'm not that new to reloading. The Lee classic turret is new to me. I'd just always done rifle rounds on a single stage press. Wanted to do a little volume reloading for my ar.
All good tips though. Thanks folks. I'll wait until I get a head space gauge.
All good tips though. Thanks folks. I'll wait until I get a head space gauge.
I've always preferred Dillon case lube but local shops didn't always have it and a bottle was around $9.00 so I made my own lube with liquid lanolin and 99% alcohol. Almost identical to Dillion lube. 16 oz bottle of 99% alcohol and a 4 oz bottle of liquid lanolin. It'll make a lot of lube at a 1/8 ratio or 16oz of alcohol to 2 oz's of liquid lanolin. As far as case headspace gauges which I highly recommend using, the Hornady Headspace Gauge set will measure headspace on most all rifle calibers. Works with you calipers and you can measure your fired cases from your rifle and set your sizing die to push shoulders back a measured amount. I prefer to get a digital readout to the thousandths that I can see using my calipers rather than drop in gauges.
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