Reloading on the Cheap?

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CCBPES34

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After I get my rifle, I'm planning to start reloading. I was looking in to getting a Hand-Held Lee Press, as I won't have a dedicated reloading space for a while. I read the Stickied Guide of Basic Needs, but I'm still lost. Would somebody be kind enough to make me a list of items that I will need besides the Press, Manuals, and Dies? Possibly, within a budget of $200. I'd figured I would start small, and go from there.

CCB
 
Going to need alittle more info like what size and type of shooting. With 200$ you should be able to do better than a hand reloader.
 
Cabelas flier today has the Lee anniversery kit for $89. Will need a micrometer tho. No space is a hard sell if you have no space.
 
If you get this for $100:
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=121744
All you would need to add is:
digital calipers - $20
1 lb powder - $25
100 primers - $4
100 bullets - $25
50 new pieces of brass - $25 (I assume you don't have any empty brass saved up)

There's your $200.

I know you said you wanted the hand press. For rifles, I would discourage that idea. It can be done of course. But there are ways to make a quick-detach mount for a bench press like the Challenger so that you can set up easily in just a couple minutes.

Oops! I forgot to add the dies. Add another $23 for a set of Lee Pacesetter dies.
 
Welcome to reloading

If you are still lost, don't buy any gear until you are no longer lost. The ABC's of reloading (under $20 from Amazon.com, but likely available at your local library) is a good source for relieving confusion. Also, the early chapters of any reloading manual contains a lot of what you need to know before you can make a reasonable decision about where you want to invest your money.

But, to answer your question:

Super cheap:

Safety glasses - shooting glasses will do, but I have a heavy duty pair dedicated to my loading bench.
Manual - $30 Lyman's is the most often recommended
The ABC's of Reloading $20 - no load recipes, but a good description of the process.
Lee Load-All $25
Piece of wood to go under the Load-All
Plastic, Wood or Hard Rubber mallet to drive the process (The Lee Load-All is sometimes known as "The Hammer Tool" - but don't use a steel hammer)
A scale is nice, so you know how much powder you are using, but Lee's dippers are adequate to keep you safe, and an appropriately sized dipper comes with the Load-All.

The whole setup can fit in a shoebox or nightstand drawer (manuals included) or your pockets at the range (manuals not included).

If loading at home, spread a dropcloth to catch spilled powder, dropped primers and the inevitable debris from spent cartridges. Don't use plastic sheeting. Cloth is quieter and spent (or new) primers don't roll around as much because cloth drapes better.

Loading with the Load-All is dead slow, but many started that way and some of the most accurate shooters in the world use the tools and swear by the method.

Easier and more efficient to use, but still budget-minded:

On the other hand, if you want to shoot more than 20-50 rounds a weekend (and don't have unlimited time to reload) I recommend using a press.

There are hand-held presses that can fit in a largish shoebox, but with a budget of $200, I recommend a bench-mounted press. You don't need a bench. I mounted my first press on a 2"x6" board and wedged it into the drawer of a nightstand for loading. I still use it. Nowadays, I mount my press on a folding workbench (Stanley or Black & Decker make nice ones).

My entire loading bench fits in three toolboxes, the largest of which is . (Plus the folding workbench) and that includes 7 sets of dies.

One is 23" x 10"x10" and contains my press (Lee Classic Turret), mounting system (a 2"x6" board that I clamp into a portable workbench or anything handy) a small "4"X8"X1.5" fishing tackle box to contain all the small parts & tools and the primer feeding system. There's room for a couple of manuals in there, too, but I store them on my bookshelf, with one next to the computer.

The second (15"x8"x8") contains all the gunpowder handling parts. Scale, funnel, 2 Powder measure/dispensers and a set of Lee's measuring scoops/dippers and my loading safety glasses (as opposed to my shooting glasses).

The third (15"x7"x7") contains seven sets of reloading dies, mounted in their turrets inside their plastic storage cylinders, ready to plug into the press and use.

With my folding workbench, I can set up my reloading room anywhere in just a few minutes.

Here's the inventory of gear so packaged:
Lee Classic Turret Press, 2x6 x 18" board and three carriage bolts with wing nuts
Lee Safey Primer Feed for both Large and Small Primers
miscellaneous tweezers, screwdrivers, magnifying glass, toothpicks etc.
Balance beam scale RCBS 10-10 or Lee Safety Scale. depending on my mood
Lee Auto-Disk Powder Measure (two of them)
Lee Powder Scoops
Powder funnel
Safety Glasses
Seven sets of dies 38/357, 9mm, 45ACP, 45/454, 44/44mag, 41mag, 45-70


Kempf's Gun Shop sells a nice kit, Lee Classic Turret press, Primer Feeds Powder Measure and one set of dies for under $200. Add Lee's $25 Scale (some find it frustrating to use if you can't figure out how to read a vernier, but its accuracy cannot be denied)

The Kempf Kit will serve most folks admirably forever, for under $300.

You can start with just the press, dies and powder dippers for $130. Add primer feeders when you get tired of using your fingers $30. Add a good scale when you want to get more sophisticated (or near the edges of the performance envelope) with your powder measuring $25 to $100 for balance beam or $50 to $300 for electronic. Add a powder measure for $30 to $150 to get faster.

Good Luck and thanks for asking our advice.

See my next post for links to interesting reading, including my "Budget Beginning bench you will never outgrow for the novice handloader"

Lost Sheep
 
Nice post^

Good to have a funnel too!
A tumbler is worth getting as well.

If you are looking at components and are strapped for cash, try to run some surplus stuff or pulled bullets maybe. Definitely saves me some cash for plinking with the 223 and .50. Midway also sells blemished bullets that can be a good deal too.

Buy the best reloading gear that you can afford. If you have to save up a bit before starting and buying components, go for it. Dont skimp on the hardware.
 
I am a minimalist handloader by nature.

Thanks, Redbullit.

Let me illuminate my philosophy:


Once you have the three basic pieces of gear (Press, Dies and a way to mete powder) you can load. Everything else just makes things safer, faster, more convenient or more accurate.

You don't need calipers until you notice your brass is hard to chamber because it has lengthened. You don't need a funnel if you are REAL careful pouring powder into your cartridge case (and can't afford $4). I loaded for a couple of weeks before I got a funnel, and even then, I could have folded one from a piece of paper. You don't need a loading block, but having a pair is REALLY convenient. I loaded for 30 years without a tumbler. Now that I have one (given to me by a friend who, I suspect, was embarrassed by the appearance of my brass when we went to the range together), my brass is prettier, but shoots just as well.

That's my approach to loading. Minimalist. To do the minimalist thing properly, though, requires deep understanding. That takes time. I hope to be there someday.

Lost Sheep
 
A reading list

My preceding post introduced me as a minimalist at heart (though the length of my rhetoric may belie that).

After that introduction, let me share with you some posts and threads I think you find useful. So get a large mug of coffee, tea, hot chocolate, whatever you keep on hand when you read and think and read through these.


The "sticky" thread at the top of TheFiringLine's reloading forum is good, entitled, "For the New Reloader: Equipment Basics -- READ THIS FIRST "
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=230171

The "sticky" thread at the top of TheHighRoad.com's reloading forum is good, entitled, "For the New Reloader: Thinking about Reloading; Equipment Basics -- READ THIS FIRST"
http://www.thehighroad.org//showthread.php?t=238214

"Budget Beginning bench you will never outgrow for the novice handloader". This was informed by my recent (July 2010) repopulation of my loading bench. It is what I would have done 35 years ago if I had known then what I know now.
http://rugerforum.net/reloading/293...you-will-never-outgrow-novice-handloader.html

Thread entitled "Newby needs help."
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=430391
My post 11 is entitled "Here's my reloading setup, which I think you might want to model" November 21, 2010)
My post 13 is "10 Advices for the novice handloader" November 21, 2010)

The first draft of my "10 Advices..." is on page 2 of this thread, about halfway down.
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=13543

Minimalist minimal
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=107332

http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=439810

or if the links do not work, paste these into your browser

thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=230171

thehighroad.org//showthread.php?t=238214

rugerforum.net/reloading/29385-budget-beginning-bench-you-will-never-outgrow-novice-handloader.html

thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=430391
(posts are #11 and #13)


rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=13543

Minimalist minimal (the seventh post down)
rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=107332

thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=439810

Good luck. Always wear eye protection, especially when working with primers and don't pinch your fingers in your press. Be safe. Always, all ways.

Lost Sheep
 
Just to add: if you put your location in your profile you might find someone willing to loan you some reading material/reloading manuals. Heck, you might even find someone willing to show you the ropes.
 
But there are ways to make a quick-detach mount for a bench press like the Challenger so that you can set up easily in just a couple minutes.
Click to expand...

It's called a screwdriver. A few twists of the 3 bolts, and it's done. It takes 30 seconds. As long as you can suffer 3 holes in your sturdiest desktop. I just keep the 3 bolts and nuts in a box, next to the press. They're not even wing nuts. Finger pressure is all it takes.
 
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I have a Lee turret press, but still prefer to load rifle rounds using the hand press. Anyway, get a scale and if you can, get a set of Lee dippers. Once you find "the load" you can always make a dipper, too. A used shell with spent primer ground down to the proper height to hold the correct amount of powder works fine. A set of Lee rifle dies comes with a shell holder. In fact, it also comes with one dipper. If you get that first, you can see which powders will give you a good load with that dipper. You can use a Lee Ram Prime on the hand press and then you won't need special shell holders for a hand primer.

Not counting the components, you should be able to hold it under $100 easy. Lost Sheep has got it right, as far as I'm concerned. I've spent quite a few very relaxing evenings loading rounds for my 303 Sav using just minimalist tools. I also have no doubt that using some of those really expensive super loaders are fun, too!

What caliber are you looking at to get started with?
 
In what sense, mandatory?

oneounceload said:
I consider a scale to be MANDATORY, not a nice extra, along with a manual, dies, press
Click to expand...
I, too consider a scale to be mandatory, but not in the same sense that dies are.

You absolutely cannot reload without dies. And a press is really helpful, too.

You CAN mete powder without weighing it, and safely, too.

It is not as convenient; the loading recipes are written with weights. It can be done, and done safely.

Lee provides a properly sized dipper with each of their die sets with a chart that tells you what weight of each of the popular gunpowders will be dropped by that dipper. you can do it with a modicum of care. (e.g. A 2.5 cubic centimeter dipper drops 38.1 grains of H110 powder and 33.7 gr of 2400.)

With only one dipper, you are limited, but for $15, you can get the full set of dippers. If you want a weight that is between two dippers and cannot figure any way to use two dippers to sum up to that weight, you are out of luck, but the point is that you CAN load usable ammunition in that way.

I do believe it is better to reload with a scale than without, but also believe it is more a question of convenience, of style and of goals more than of safety.

Respectfully, and sincerely,

Lost Sheep

P.S. To the original poster, CCBPES34. You can see that there is a lot of variation in the approaches of various handloaders. We have honest, sincere differences, largely because we have different goals in our shooting. The 1,000 yard match shooter has much in common with the Cowboy Action Shooter or the deer hunter or IPSC competitor, but also worlds of differences. This contributes to different equipment needs and reloading styles (aside from budget considerations).

The more we know about your shooting needs, your background and your inclinations, the better we can tailor our answers. Nobody's "perfect" loading bench will be exactly perfect for anyone else.
 
Look for a basic reloading kit all the big boys sell them. I started with a Lee loader for about a year then I got a RCBS Jr kit back in the 70's had everything I needed to get going reloading for .357 mag the kit came with a set of dies. I think Lee sells something like that now. One of the regrets of my life was selling the RCBS Jr. press. Harbor Fright sells a digital caliper for $10 on sale from time to time you will need one of them. I used C-clamps to hold the press to the table for about 20 years before I built a reloading bench. I did tear the top off a light table once sizing 7mm Rem Magnum, which is why I thought I need a Rockchucker press.
 
I, too consider a scale to be mandatory, but not in the same sense that dies are.

You absolutely cannot reload without dies. And a press is really helpful, too.

You CAN mete powder without weighing it, and safely, too.
Click to expand...

Where you and I will disagree is with the metering of powder and not checking it with a scale, especially with a handgun round where a .3-.5 grain difference can be catastrophic - hence why I say a scale is mandatory. I have been using the RCBS 5-10 for about 30 years or so - it is accurate and fast. I use it in conjunction with the Uniflow powder measure - I have never been a fan of dippers - JMO, YMMV, as I have seen way too much variance depending on how you "dip"
 
The caliber will be 6.5x55 Swede or .308 in a Bolt Action. Will be used for Hunting (Black Bear, Elk, Deer) and a little Plinking/Target.
 
I have seen way too much variance depending on how you "dip"
Click to expand...

oneounceload - that's the biggest problem. Once you get the right dipper for the load, a consitant method is required. Two people might dip differently, but one person SHOULD be able to dip consistantly. I agree, however, that they aren't really good for pistol loads, although now that I think about it, I do use a volume powder measure on the press for pistol and it's pretty darned accurate as well.

Anyway, the OP was talking about rifle loading, that's why I recommended the dipper method. It's cheap, should be weighed to find the correct dipper first, but then can be quite consistant after that.
 
I have been following Lost Sheep's guides, and I have a list of items.

Turret Press-$70
Dies-$25
Powder Measure Kit-$10
Powder Funnel-$4
Primer Pocket Cleaner-$2
Reloading Books,Manuals,Data-$37
Another Pair of Shooting Glasses-$8
Set-up Materials-$10
Bullets & Powder- $50
Shooting Ammo for Brass to Reload- Priceless
Total- $216

How's that look? It will take me a while after I purchase the rifle & glass to get reloading equipment, so I should have plenty of Brass to reload by that time.:)
 
CCBPES34 said:
I have been following Lost Sheep's guides, and I have a list of items.

Turret Press-$70
Dies-$25
Powder Measure Kit-$10
Powder Funnel-$4
Primer Pocket Cleaner-$2
Reloading Books,Manuals,Data-$37
Another Pair of Shooting Glasses-$8
Set-up Materials-$10
Bullets & Powder- $50
Shooting Ammo for Brass to Reload- Priceless
Total- $216

How's that look? It will take me a while after I purchase the rifle & glass to get reloading equipment, so I should have plenty of Brass to reload by that time.:)
Click to expand...
That's just the begining. Once you start, you'll always want more stuff. If you're interested in Lee stuff, check their closeouts from time to time. http://leeprecision.com/xcart/Closeouts/ I got a turret from them for 61 shipped.
 
Cautions about not using a scale to verify dippers OR powder measure

oneounceload said:
Where you and I will disagree is with the metering of powder and not checking it with a scale, especially with a handgun round where a .3-.5 grain difference can be catastrophic - hence why I say a scale is mandatory. I have been using the RCBS 5-10 for about 30 years or so - it is accurate and fast. I use it in conjunction with the Uniflow powder measure - I have never been a fan of dippers - JMO, YMMV, as I have seen way too much variance depending on how you "dip"
Click to expand...
I am totally with you there, oneounceload. I have a pretty good technique that yields uncannily consistent weights out of the dippers with every powder I have tried. But I have to always do it exactly the same way every time. If anything doesn't "feel" right, I dump the powder and scoop again. I have tested my technique and found it to be good.

My fondness for dippers lies in their reliability and consistency. They also do not damage the powder granules. And cheap.

I agree that a small variation (in tenths of grains) in handgun cartridges that typically run under 10 grains is a large percentage. So, if I didn't have a scale to verify my dipping to be at the weight I expect, I would stay well within the range specified in the manual. On the other hand, which manual you use gives you quite a variation in recommended starting loads.

Just let it suffice that if I did not have a scale to check my dippers, 1) a scale would be my very next purchase and 2) I would be using voluminous powders (less percentage variation, throw to throw) and nothing anywhere near maximum (or minimum) loads.

Thanks for giving me the opportunity to point out the limitations of using dippers and particularly using dippers instead of a scale. And to provide cautions.

The advantages are that dippers take up less space than a powder measure and are a LOT less expensive.

Lost Sheep

P.S. I also tend to stay away from small volume cases and higher pressure cartridges. A little bit of extra powder in a small case causes a bigger pressure rise than that same amount of extra powder in a larger case, and, for example, .40 S&W normally runs more than 150% of what .45 ACP runs. The closer to the failure point of brass I get, the more cautious I get.
 
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Lost Sheep said:
Just let it suffice that if I did not have a scale to check my dippers, 1) a scale would be my very next purchase and 2) I would be using voluminous powders (less percentage variation, throw to throw) and nothing anywhere near maximum (or minimum) loads.



Lost Sheep
Click to expand...
That be the next thing on I'd buy. That way I'll be able to load up hot loads ,after I gain some experience, for hunting season.:evil:
 
Rifle cartridges vs Handgun cartridges

I am a handgun shooter, so my posts leave out some things that shooters of bottlenecked cartridges will need, if not right away, soon.

A lube pad (you can make do with a sponge, clean stamp ink pad or even a paper towel, or your fingers, but something a little more formal will be advantageous). Most rifle cartridges REQUIRE lubrication during handloading.

Caliper and/or a case length gauge. Bottlenecked cartridges lengthen with use, and then become hard to chamber. The also, when forced into the chamber, grip the bullet too tightly, increasing pressures. A couple of cycles of reloading should be OK, but eventually you are going to want to know if your cases are getting to long.

Case trimmer. After a few more cycles of reloading, you will have to trim your cases to the proper length. You can get by for a while without one, but pretty soon you will have a bunch of cases you can no longer reload because they are too long. But you can start without one.

Case mouth chamfering tool. After trimming, you will want to smooth the case mouth. A pocket knife can do, but it will surely be a little crooked. (Try to sharpen a pencil with a pocket knife and see how smooth and symmetrical it is compared to a pencil coming out of a mechanical sharpener.)

You can do this stuff with minimal and primitive tools, but get the good stuff as soon as you can.

Lost Sheep
 
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