Totally new to reloading and having a problem with .40 s&w. After reloading the ammo does not fit into the barrel. So i went back and tried several different things. Then went step by step. Sized and deprimed, put the empty casing in the barrel and no problem, expanding, then seating the bullet and the round no longer fits. tried several adjustments, no crimp. Totally frustrated, have about 50 test rounds now with no primer and powder and 2 or 3 fit. Would get one to fit and then replicate, it wouldn't fit. Any help? I know this is a little vague, but i'm still learning the lingo. Using a hornady classic press with hornady dies.
Reloading problems with 40 S&W
- Thread starter Lipe1970
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J_McLeod
Member
What is the OAL of the bullets you've loaded?
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Measure the case mouth after taper crimping.
It should measure .421".
If that won't fit, your OAL is too long and the bullets are hitting the rifling.
Test that by coloring a case & bullet with a black magic marker and pressing in the chamber as hard as you can.
Where the black rubs off is your problem.
rc
It should measure .421".
If that won't fit, your OAL is too long and the bullets are hitting the rifling.
Test that by coloring a case & bullet with a black magic marker and pressing in the chamber as hard as you can.
Where the black rubs off is your problem.
rc
Did you try to chamber the empty case after expanding but before seating the bullet?
I think that's your problem you are either expanding too much or are not closing the bell after seating. You can do that by adjusting the depth of the seat/crimp die so that it brings the mouth of the case back to vertical. Also make sure you aren't expanding too much, you only need to be able to get the bullet to sit straight for jacketed bullets, and only enough to prevent shaving for cast lead bullets.
I think that's your problem you are either expanding too much or are not closing the bell after seating. You can do that by adjusting the depth of the seat/crimp die so that it brings the mouth of the case back to vertical. Also make sure you aren't expanding too much, you only need to be able to get the bullet to sit straight for jacketed bullets, and only enough to prevent shaving for cast lead bullets.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
O.K.
That is way too big and still has the bell from expanding left.
Your taper crimp die is not adjusted right.
SAAMI MAX case dia is .423".
Back your seating stem out, then screw the die in further until you get a case mouth measurement of .421".
Or perhaps .422", as Berry bullets are .401", not the normal .40 S&W size of .400".
rc
LiveLife
Member
I am with rcmodel.rcmodel said:
My factory loads measure .420" at the case mouth for .400" diameter jacketed bullet.
Berry's 180 gr 40S&W bullets I have measure .401" and I use .421" taper crimp at the case mouth (I add .020" to the bullet diameter for the average thickness of the case walls).
RSrocket, i think you are on to something it seems i have a buldge right below the crimp of nearly.008. When i colored the round with a sharpie and put it in the barrel that is where it hit. How do i get back to vertical? I don't think i'm expanding to much as the bullet is in just enough to straighten. Doesn't sit down very far in the case
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
That is SAAMI MAX OAL for any bullet weight.
1.135 is too long for 155 grain RNFP.
I don't know offhand what it should be.
But I'm thinking around 1.120" maybe.
rc
LiveLife
Member
rcmodel, I use 1.125" OAL for 155/165/180 for RNFP/TCFP so Lipe's OAL maybe too long and hitting the rifling.
Bottom of Berry's plated bullets are rounded, so you don't need to flare the case neck much, just enough to feel with your finger tips and set the bullet flat inside the case neck. Adjust the taper crimp so the case neck is "flat" against the bullet at .421". You could apply slight more taper crimp like .420" and they will look more like these pictures. Your finished round should drop into the barrel out of the pistol freely with a "plonk" and not hit the rifling when you spin the chambered bullet.
Lipe1970, now you may be applying too much crimp.Lipe1970 said:
Bottom of Berry's plated bullets are rounded, so you don't need to flare the case neck much, just enough to feel with your finger tips and set the bullet flat inside the case neck. Adjust the taper crimp so the case neck is "flat" against the bullet at .421". You could apply slight more taper crimp like .420" and they will look more like these pictures. Your finished round should drop into the barrel out of the pistol freely with a "plonk" and not hit the rifling when you spin the chambered bullet.
Wife still getting ready so i have a few more minutes. I think i am confused when you talk about adjusting crimp. But from what i have read so far the OAL is just to long for starters. I think what bds is describing is what is going on (the picture on the right) the seating and crimping is making a bulge that is just to wide. Just trying to figure out how to correct it. Sitting at my reloading bench in a suit 
LiveLife
Member
To apply the taper crimp, you need to adjust the taper crimp die:
1. Unscrew/raise the taper crimp die body all the way out
2. Insert a resized/flared case in shell holder/plate and raise the ram all the way up.
3. Screw/lower the taper crimp die body until it makes contact with the case
4. Lower the ram so the flared case is below the bottom of the die
5. Screw/lower the taper crimp die body in increment of 1/4 turn and raise the ram and measure the amount of taper crimp until you have .421"
6. Insert another resized/flared case with a bullet set in the case neck and press the ram lever
7. Measure taper crimp at the case neck - should be .421"
If you are using a combination taper crimp/bullet seating die with a knob, then it will be a bit more involved (this is for Lee die):
- Unscrew the bullet seat/taper crimp die out and unscrew the bullet seating stem knob almost all the way out.
- Place a resized/flared case in the shell holder/plate.
- Set a bullet on the flared case neck and raise the ram all the way up.
- Screw/lower the die until it makes contact with the flared case neck
- While holding the die body, screw the bullet seating stem knob until it makes contact with the bullet.
- Lower the ram so the bullet is below the bottom of the die (be careful to not tip the bullet) and turn the die body 1/4 turn (of course, bullet seating stem knob will move with the die).
- Raise the ram to seat the bullet/taper crimp slightly.
- Using a caliper, note the OAL/taper crimp and incrementally decrease the OAL/taper crimp by rotating the die body/knob together 1/4 turn. Note, OAL may decrease faster than taper crimp.
- Once desired OAL is obtained (let's say 1.125"), HOLD the bullet seating stem knob while you turn the die body to decrease the taper crimp. Once desired taper crimp is obtained (in this case .421"), tighten the lock ring while holding the die body steady.
- Seat/taper crimp another bullet and measure the finished round to see if OAL is 1.125" and taper crimp is .421".
1. Unscrew/raise the taper crimp die body all the way out
2. Insert a resized/flared case in shell holder/plate and raise the ram all the way up.
3. Screw/lower the taper crimp die body until it makes contact with the case
4. Lower the ram so the flared case is below the bottom of the die
5. Screw/lower the taper crimp die body in increment of 1/4 turn and raise the ram and measure the amount of taper crimp until you have .421"
6. Insert another resized/flared case with a bullet set in the case neck and press the ram lever
7. Measure taper crimp at the case neck - should be .421"
If you are using a combination taper crimp/bullet seating die with a knob, then it will be a bit more involved (this is for Lee die):
- Unscrew the bullet seat/taper crimp die out and unscrew the bullet seating stem knob almost all the way out.
- Place a resized/flared case in the shell holder/plate.
- Set a bullet on the flared case neck and raise the ram all the way up.
- Screw/lower the die until it makes contact with the flared case neck
- While holding the die body, screw the bullet seating stem knob until it makes contact with the bullet.
- Lower the ram so the bullet is below the bottom of the die (be careful to not tip the bullet) and turn the die body 1/4 turn (of course, bullet seating stem knob will move with the die).
- Raise the ram to seat the bullet/taper crimp slightly.
- Using a caliper, note the OAL/taper crimp and incrementally decrease the OAL/taper crimp by rotating the die body/knob together 1/4 turn. Note, OAL may decrease faster than taper crimp.
- Once desired OAL is obtained (let's say 1.125"), HOLD the bullet seating stem knob while you turn the die body to decrease the taper crimp. Once desired taper crimp is obtained (in this case .421"), tighten the lock ring while holding the die body steady.
- Seat/taper crimp another bullet and measure the finished round to see if OAL is 1.125" and taper crimp is .421".
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Follow the instructions from this link. The adjustments for the taper crimping die are close to the bottom of the page. It sounds to me like you are flaring too much, and crimping too hard. I'd lighten up on both. It's time like this I wish I had a transporter.
http://www.chuckhawks.com/adjust_reloading_dies.htm
http://www.chuckhawks.com/adjust_reloading_dies.htm
If you are getting a bulge from taper crimping, you are crimping too much. You just need to remove the belling or a hair more.
I should look similar to this .45 ACP round, which has .001 crimp.
A thread about finding the max length your barrel will accept.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=506678
A post about crimping.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=7699828&postcount=14
I should look similar to this .45 ACP round, which has .001 crimp.
A thread about finding the max length your barrel will accept.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=506678
A post about crimping.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=7699828&postcount=14
If you have a FCD, Then taper crimp more until you get .420-.421.
If you use the seating die to crimp, Then adjust it until you get it to .420.
Also, Sometimes Berrys bullets are the diamter or lead bullets. such as .401 and the Ogive could be different for it. Sometimes you have to seat it deeper due to this until it feeds reliably in your gun.
I would start with the crimp and then the OAL
If you use the seating die to crimp, Then adjust it until you get it to .420.
Also, Sometimes Berrys bullets are the diamter or lead bullets. such as .401 and the Ogive could be different for it. Sometimes you have to seat it deeper due to this until it feeds reliably in your gun.
I would start with the crimp and then the OAL
Thanks guys, followed the instructions on die adjusting exactly and the crimp adjusted till the crimp was .421 and seating was 1.125. Firs in the barrel nicely. Just way to much crimp was causing the problem. Going to try to produce a group of 50 rounds in the next few days and see how it goes. Also going to try some 9mm and .223 if anyone has any advice
LiveLife
Member
Great. I love happy endings. Pays to listen to rcmodel.
Keep us posted.
Pays to listen to rcmodel.Keep us posted.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
How about.
Crimp the 9mm to .376".
And don't crimp the .223 at all?
rc
LiveLife
Member
Of course you'll need to use your barrel to determine the Max/Ideal OAL, but these work for my pistols taper crimped to .375" for .355" sized bullets (.376" for .356" sized bullets).
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