Just bought a new Glock 20. No ammo available so I'm considering reloading. There is a lot of talk about using after market barrels when reloading for Glocks. Is this really necessary to go with an after market barrel if I stick with jacket bullets?
Reloading the Glock 20
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Dan-O
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I use an aftermarket barrel because I shoot some pretty hot loads and I like to extend the life of my brass. And I also shoot quite a bit of lead.....like 95% of the time.
I just feel safer with the bit more chamber support that the aftermarket barrels provide.
I just feel safer with the bit more chamber support that the aftermarket barrels provide.
crestoncowboy
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I have model 20s worth kkm barrels and stock barrels. I reload for both. I do shoot jacketed with the Glock Barrel. For really hot loads I avoid the stock one.
Not long after beginning to reload for my Glock 20 I began to notice some slight belling of the shell cases. That was pretty much the excuse I used to do what I wanted to do anyway, which was get a 6" barrel with tighter tolerances.
I went with the Storm Lake barrel and have been very happy with it. My brass is in fine shape, it is very accurate and I have never had a FTF or FTE despite the tighter tolerances. As a bonus, the 10mm round seems to really like the extra bit of barrel for building velocity and accuracy.
I went with the Storm Lake barrel and have been very happy with it. My brass is in fine shape, it is very accurate and I have never had a FTF or FTE despite the tighter tolerances. As a bonus, the 10mm round seems to really like the extra bit of barrel for building velocity and accuracy.
I began hand loading circa 1970, and in 1991 discovered the 10mm to be a hand loader's dream cartridge. I've loaded for Glocks since 1991 when I bought my Gen2 G20 and thousands of rounds later I've never had a problem. However I'm anal about protocols, procedures, cartridge dimension metrics, load development and safety rules.
I load both jacketed and my own cast bullets. Before the internet was revealed to me that meant thousands of cast bullets through my Glock's barrels. Worm can sighted, but many of us just simply don't believe the internet FUD (Fear, Uncertainty and Doubt) and hype that's spread about "lead" boolits in Glock barrels. As is the usual case, YMMV.
If all you ever load is jacketed bullets and you follow all the rules for responsible loading, you'll be fine. Just be sure and buy a few loading manuals since the process is far more than just picking a powder and charge weight. Lyman's 49th edition of their manual is excellent with respect to both load data (quantity and quality) and reference material.
To answer you question directly, no it's not necessary to go to and aftermarket barrel for hand loaded ammunition. They're marketed with various levels of hype but in the end, the Glock OEM barrel is strong and accurate. Pretty much all guns makers warn against using "reloaded" ammunition for liability reasons. Your response to that is your decision. Hundreds of thousands of hand loaders who develop ammunition can attest to the fact the process is a safe one so long as safety rules, published suggested charge weights and etc. are all followed.
I load both jacketed and my own cast bullets. Before the internet was revealed to me that meant thousands of cast bullets through my Glock's barrels. Worm can sighted, but many of us just simply don't believe the internet FUD (Fear, Uncertainty and Doubt) and hype that's spread about "lead" boolits in Glock barrels. As is the usual case, YMMV.
If all you ever load is jacketed bullets and you follow all the rules for responsible loading, you'll be fine. Just be sure and buy a few loading manuals since the process is far more than just picking a powder and charge weight. Lyman's 49th edition of their manual is excellent with respect to both load data (quantity and quality) and reference material.
To answer you question directly, no it's not necessary to go to and aftermarket barrel for hand loaded ammunition. They're marketed with various levels of hype but in the end, the Glock OEM barrel is strong and accurate. Pretty much all guns makers warn against using "reloaded" ammunition for liability reasons. Your response to that is your decision. Hundreds of thousands of hand loaders who develop ammunition can attest to the fact the process is a safe one so long as safety rules, published suggested charge weights and etc. are all followed.
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I only shoot my reloads through my G20 and G29. I use the stock barrel in the G29, because I don't shoot the G29 very much. I bought a Lonewolf barrel for the G20, only because I get more reloads from my brass with the Lonewolf barrel. I never load nuclear, as I'm only shooting at inanimate objects.
Thank everyone for the responses! I've reloaded since the 70's, I never push the limits, just wondering about this supposely unsupported chamber issue. I picked up 250 JHP bullets from MidwayUSA and the dies are coming June 27th. I scored on two 50 round boxes of ammo at Bass Pro yesterday. The gun shoots nice, good to go.
hariph creek
Member
I'll let others debate case support and leading and whatnot.
I like 10mm, I shoot it, I load for it.
While most of what I plink with is not loaded HOT. I have developed a MAX load for woods carry.
I can see no reason to deal with 10mm's idiosyncrasies. If your not going to tap it's full potential.
I like 10mm, I shoot it, I load for it.
While most of what I plink with is not loaded HOT. I have developed a MAX load for woods carry.
I can see no reason to deal with 10mm's idiosyncrasies. If your not going to tap it's full potential.
Peter M. Eick
Member
Go mild and the stock barrel will probably do you.
Go wild and get an aftermarket with more support. I went with a KKM but others are similar.
Go wild and get an aftermarket with more support. I went with a KKM but others are similar.
You said you didn't plan on pushing it, so with that in mind no you likely do not need an aftermarket barrel. When I had a G20 and loaded for the 10mm I would get quite a bit of bulging of the brass even with loads that were not particularly "hot". Some bulging I'm used to, but severe bulging is a bad thing.
Many use an aftermarket barrel, and I did for the 10mm as well. Yes you can load them hotter but one of the main things to me is that the better support is easier on the brass, prolonging brass life. To add, you can load the 10mm "warm enough" in the stock barrel that it's still going to be fairly potent, so in a lot of ways there's no real reason to push the 10mm anyhow, it's not like a 180gr at 1200-1250 fps isn't capable you know?
Many use an aftermarket barrel, and I did for the 10mm as well. Yes you can load them hotter but one of the main things to me is that the better support is easier on the brass, prolonging brass life. To add, you can load the 10mm "warm enough" in the stock barrel that it's still going to be fairly potent, so in a lot of ways there's no real reason to push the 10mm anyhow, it's not like a 180gr at 1200-1250 fps isn't capable you know?
hariph creek
Member
Idiosyncrasies?
Hard-ish to find ammo.
Harder to find SD loads that aren't watered down.
Ammo costs more than it should.
Larger framed platform, exclusively.
Brass can be hard to find. Both "off the shelf" and after it's launched into the next county.
Published load data is sparse and rather watered down.
Some have opined that .40 s&w JHP's aren't well suited to true 10mm velocities.
All that said...I love 10mm. But, wouldn't bother with it, if I was only interested in .40s&w level performance.
Hard-ish to find ammo.
Harder to find SD loads that aren't watered down.
Ammo costs more than it should.
Larger framed platform, exclusively.
Brass can be hard to find. Both "off the shelf" and after it's launched into the next county.
Published load data is sparse and rather watered down.
Some have opined that .40 s&w JHP's aren't well suited to true 10mm velocities.
All that said...I love 10mm. But, wouldn't bother with it, if I was only interested in .40s&w level performance.
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I'm not wanting a .40 S&W. I was hoping to get near 1200 with 180's in the stock 4.6" Glock barrel. Hornady's Sixth Edition Reloading book lists three powders getting 1250 (max loads) with a 5" barrel. When reloading for other calibers, as long as I don't get pressure signs I will approach the max loads but never go beyond the load just below.
Cemo, when I had the G20 I know that 8.5gr of Power Pistol under a 180gr would average 1205 fps from the 4.6" stock barrel, and the brass didn't look that bad. Alliant shows 8.7gr as max.
Longshot did well too, 9.5gr would hover between 1250-1265 fps from the 4.6" G20 using 180gr.
I tried Blue Dot, but even with book max I was only around 1150 fps, which isn't bad but I can get that from my 4" .40 so what's the point.
Longshot did well too, 9.5gr would hover between 1250-1265 fps from the 4.6" G20 using 180gr.
I tried Blue Dot, but even with book max I was only around 1150 fps, which isn't bad but I can get that from my 4" .40 so what's the point.
As I said, just another straightwall pistol round to me. No more, no less. I enjoy shooting my large G20 and my smallish G29.
I don't see that nuclear loads are necessary or even desirable for s.d. purposes. Hunting four-legged animals? Yep. Hunting two-legged animals, nope.
I don't see that nuclear loads are necessary or even desirable for s.d. purposes. Hunting four-legged animals? Yep. Hunting two-legged animals, nope.
dsb1829
Member
So long as you are under MAX book loads I doubt you will see any issues. I had a G20 for about a year. Only rounds with severe brass deformation were from Double Tap. All my reloads, including full book max never showed more that minor bulges. Mine was a 2011 production Gen3.
It didn't run lead clean. Maybe a different hardness or bullets with gas check would work better.
Bottom line, nothing to worry about reloading glock 20. No more dangerous than other high pressure pistol ctg.
It didn't run lead clean. Maybe a different hardness or bullets with gas check would work better.
Bottom line, nothing to worry about reloading glock 20. No more dangerous than other high pressure pistol ctg.
orionengnr
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I handload for 10mm and shoot it through a 1911. I was eyeballing the G20 for a while, but I read a few too many threads about bulged 10mm brass from factory Glock barrels.
I have (on occasion) found and picked up some 10mm brass off the floor at the range. Recently I found almost 50 rounds and was beside myself...until I started rolling a few rounds on the counter.
Long story short, all of them went in the trash, along with my plans for a G20.
YMMV, and I sincerely hope it does.
I have (on occasion) found and picked up some 10mm brass off the floor at the range. Recently I found almost 50 rounds and was beside myself...until I started rolling a few rounds on the counter.
Long story short, all of them went in the trash, along with my plans for a G20.
YMMV, and I sincerely hope it does.
wild cat mccane
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The option to go hard is great!
But if you rarely do...why not a .40 and be in the exact same ballpark with less expense, same performance, and smaller gun?
But if you rarely do...why not a .40 and be in the exact same ballpark with less expense, same performance, and smaller gun?
Elkins45
Member
My experience (and I own two of them) is that only mild loads can be fired in the factory barrel if you wish to safely reuse your brass.
If I'm running reloads anywhere near their full potential then I consider the brass non-reusable. I load a 200 grain bullet for hiking around black bears and I put them in brand new Starline brass. When I shoot them I just leave the empties on the ground.
YMMV, but factory ammo from reputable manufacturers comes out of my factory barrels with feed ramp bulges I wouldn't even dream of sizing back down.
If I'm running reloads anywhere near their full potential then I consider the brass non-reusable. I load a 200 grain bullet for hiking around black bears and I put them in brand new Starline brass. When I shoot them I just leave the empties on the ground.
YMMV, but factory ammo from reputable manufacturers comes out of my factory barrels with feed ramp bulges I wouldn't even dream of sizing back down.
The case support in the G20 is not ideal so many people who reload buy an after market barrel like a lone wolf for only $109.95 (many people do not like the wolf logo) and for $14.95 you can have blind marking (under the barrel) or other aftermarket barrels. Another option is purchase a conversion barrel and convert to 40 S&W which will save money (mostly on new ammunition) and you can share the bullets with the 10mm.
I'm pushing 4 or 5 reloads on some of my 10mm brass that I load with longshot.
180 gn JHPs 1250 at 1250 fps over 9.3 grns powder. I carefully monitor brass rotation in stock. My oldest brass is now retired to 1050 fps loads and should continue to serve me there for another 4 or 5 loads at least.
Close inspection after cleaning is the key in my mind.
180 gn JHPs 1250 at 1250 fps over 9.3 grns powder. I carefully monitor brass rotation in stock. My oldest brass is now retired to 1050 fps loads and should continue to serve me there for another 4 or 5 loads at least.
Close inspection after cleaning is the key in my mind.
ramptester
Member
my biggest complaint with the hot loads that I have seen out of both 1911 style and Glock 20 is that the ejector and extractor both beat the crap out of the brass. The rims are frequently gouged when I go to retrieve the brass. It is not an issue with feeding or extraction per se, and as far as I know there is no way to adjust the tension of the Glock extractor
This Winchester casing out of a stock G20 was bulged so bad that it couldn't be resized, start up powder weight;
That's a 6" KKM replacement barrel pictured.
Both of my G20s now have Lonewolf barrels, in fact, the SF Glock barrel was replaced by a Lonewolf barrel out of the box.
That's a 6" KKM replacement barrel pictured.
Both of my G20s now have Lonewolf barrels, in fact, the SF Glock barrel was replaced by a Lonewolf barrel out of the box.
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