giggitygiggity
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Can steel cases and milled-steel cases, used most commonly by Wolf, be reloaded? If so, how does it compare to reloading regular brass cases? Thanks.
Reloading Wolf
- Thread starter giggitygiggity
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shaggy430
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I've noticed you've posted a couple of other threads and I see a similar trend. I'd suggest you get a good manual that not only gives you load information, but goes in detail about the reloading process, components, etc... It will explain a lot. Reloading isn't something you want to go into blindly. You can also find videos at www.midway.com and other sites.
I don't want to sound condescending in any way, because I am fairly new to reloading myself. I've got two generations of mentors that have taught me a lot before I ever tried it on my own.
I don't want to sound condescending in any way, because I am fairly new to reloading myself. I've got two generations of mentors that have taught me a lot before I ever tried it on my own.
jim147
Member
This always starts some kind of debate.
I reload steel pistol cases. I have no problems you just need to look them over as close as you should be looking over your brass.
They only last one to three times. But if you have them. I don't throw anything away.
jim
I reload steel pistol cases. I have no problems you just need to look them over as close as you should be looking over your brass.
They only last one to three times. But if you have them. I don't throw anything away.
jim
jfrey
Member
I wouldn't reload them, but that's just me. I don't shoot Wolf ammo either.
evan price
Member
Steel cases do not expand and contract like brass does. It is more brittle.
Also if exposed to moisture it will start to quickly rust. Steel cases are coated with lacquer or polymer coatings or are zinc galvanized to prevent this. If the protective coating is damaged air can get to the raw steel and will cause rust very quickly.
The feeding/extraction cycle scratches the case and damages the coating. The firing pressure expands the case, creating tiny cracks in the polymer or lacquer coating. Running the case through the die scrapes the outside and inside of the case, damaging the coating.
Rust will quickly result unless precautions are taken to prevent it.
Add that to the more brittle nature of steel cases and the answer to your question is- Yes, technically they are reloadable, but unless you have no alternative, they are not recommended to be reloaded.
Also if exposed to moisture it will start to quickly rust. Steel cases are coated with lacquer or polymer coatings or are zinc galvanized to prevent this. If the protective coating is damaged air can get to the raw steel and will cause rust very quickly.
The feeding/extraction cycle scratches the case and damages the coating. The firing pressure expands the case, creating tiny cracks in the polymer or lacquer coating. Running the case through the die scrapes the outside and inside of the case, damaging the coating.
Rust will quickly result unless precautions are taken to prevent it.
Add that to the more brittle nature of steel cases and the answer to your question is- Yes, technically they are reloadable, but unless you have no alternative, they are not recommended to be reloaded.
ACBMWM3
member
Ive shot sooooooooooo many steel cases and have had no damage to any of my weapons...
Greetings,
I am sure someone will be able to confirm or infirm this. I think steel cases can scratch your dies.
I do not think they can scratch your ramp because it is the bullet that touches it mainly and they are coated. However, because you need to clean those metal cases, the coating will go away and maybe it can scratch it. Can it???
Thank you
I am sure someone will be able to confirm or infirm this. I think steel cases can scratch your dies.
I do not think they can scratch your ramp because it is the bullet that touches it mainly and they are coated. However, because you need to clean those metal cases, the coating will go away and maybe it can scratch it. Can it???
Thank you
jcwit
member
Last summer I did some personal testing of steel and alu. cases to see if they could be reloaded. I reloaded both 10 times with no problems using med. powder charges. Everything worked ok. This was with both steel and alu cases using boxer primers. Caliber was 45 ACP.
Now the only question is why would you want to? Brass is readily available, many places free for the taking as range pick-ups. We know it works excellant, and lasts for a reasonabley long time for many reloadings. Our tooling is made to be used with brass. We spend good money to usually buy the best firearms we can afford "just look what people say about Hi-Point" then we buy the cheapest ammo to fire in our expensive arms. Now we want to economise using cheap steel cases. Why? I just don't get it.
Now the only question is why would you want to? Brass is readily available, many places free for the taking as range pick-ups. We know it works excellant, and lasts for a reasonabley long time for many reloadings. Our tooling is made to be used with brass. We spend good money to usually buy the best firearms we can afford "just look what people say about Hi-Point" then we buy the cheapest ammo to fire in our expensive arms. Now we want to economise using cheap steel cases. Why? I just don't get it.
OK so steel does not scratch you weapon, I was hoaxed, but I still don't use steel or aluminum.
I like brass, and I have never had any problem finding thousands of once fire for reloading, most free sometimes I buy a little extra.
I like brass, and I have never had any problem finding thousands of once fire for reloading, most free sometimes I buy a little extra.
shaggy430
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One thing you might need to know about trying to load steel cases is that most are Berdan primed. Instead of 1 flash hole they have two. Your regular decapping die will not line up correctly into the flash holes. You could break the decapping pin.
I've never reloaded steel cases so this is just what I have heard.
I've never reloaded steel cases so this is just what I have heard.
Not a chance. Take a file and try and scratch one of your dies. Hardened steel beats mild all day long. Also won't scratch your barrel extension feed ramps.
They can be reloaded. Safely? Dunno, but I collect and reload my steel cases. I rarely pick up range steel because they do rust quickly and can on the inside worse than on the outside. It is important to store the cases loaded or not in a dry place otherwise rust will get to them. I usually tumble and pack them away with desiccant in the safe with a dehumidifier. Load them up right before I need them. I'd cry if 1000 loaded cases rusted.
From my experience, my cases tend to split necks after a few loads though. Never has a case failure. BTW, my blasting reloads were better accuracy-wise than the factory wolf.
ETA there is plenty of boxer primed steel cased stuff around. Look for the non-lacquered stuff for starters - it may or may not be boxer primed.
Greetings,
Rino451, Last week I had to get a 45ACP Dillon replacement crimp die because it was scratched and it was scratching my brass at the mouth. I clean thorougly my brass, reload only brass or nickel, some FMJ but mostly hard cast lead bullets.
When I talked to Dillon, the guy told me they will send me a replacement die, but I should try to sand the inside with a 600 grit sandpapers and it would probably remove the scratches.
What scratched my die.....?
Thank you
Rino451, Last week I had to get a 45ACP Dillon replacement crimp die because it was scratched and it was scratching my brass at the mouth. I clean thorougly my brass, reload only brass or nickel, some FMJ but mostly hard cast lead bullets.
When I talked to Dillon, the guy told me they will send me a replacement die, but I should try to sand the inside with a 600 grit sandpapers and it would probably remove the scratches.
What scratched my die.....?
Thank you
Not mild steel. How about silica (sand)? Seriously, ever try and take .001" off the bottom of a die to try and bump the shoulder back on a case a little more than what the die allows? Barely possible. Now, you will see marks, "scratches" if you will, on the die, but not scratches that are material.
ETA or it could have been a manufacturing defect or even a loose steel bur already in the die that scratched it. Brass and nickel certainly didn't scratch a hardened die. Now, a crimp die might not be hardened and the mandrel if the Dillon has one might not be either. In that case, anything can happen and mild steel is no more of a concern than is brass or nickel.
ETA or it could have been a manufacturing defect or even a loose steel bur already in the die that scratched it. Brass and nickel certainly didn't scratch a hardened die. Now, a crimp die might not be hardened and the mandrel if the Dillon has one might not be either. In that case, anything can happen and mild steel is no more of a concern than is brass or nickel.
Many thousands of rounds and no scratched dies. No Steel, no Aluminum, and my brass is clean. 
The main reasons I am not interested in reloading steel or aluminum, besides than it was never intended to be, is its properties compared to brass, and the availability of free or cheap brass.
In a real crunch? No brass available etc etc. Yea, sure, it can be done, and would be done.
The main reasons I am not interested in reloading steel or aluminum, besides than it was never intended to be, is its properties compared to brass, and the availability of free or cheap brass.
In a real crunch? No brass available etc etc. Yea, sure, it can be done, and would be done.
jcwit
member
I agree with Walkalong. I also think most of the scratched dies are not the die being scratched. If a person looks Very closely at the brass that has been in the socalled scratched die it is the brass thats scratched. More than likely the culprit is galling "brass or nickle" inside the die. The scratch is in the brass case not in the die. The galling can be removed with fine sandpaper or crocus cloth.
The galling usually comes from nickle cases with no lube on them as is usually the way its done with pistol cases. A little nickle plating flakes off and galls itself to the inside of the die.
The galling usually comes from nickle cases with no lube on them as is usually the way its done with pistol cases. A little nickle plating flakes off and galls itself to the inside of the die.
Greetings,
My 45ACP crimp die IS scratched and not the brass. I ran many perfect looking brass and they ended up with tiny scratches at the mouth.
I removed the die, cleaned it perfectly with a brass brush on a drill, hoppes, etc and the scratches were visible.
Thank you
My 45ACP crimp die IS scratched and not the brass. I ran many perfect looking brass and they ended up with tiny scratches at the mouth.
I removed the die, cleaned it perfectly with a brass brush on a drill, hoppes, etc and the scratches were visible.
Thank you
Ha, good luck with that! Unfortunately, good luck finding brass cased x39 on the shelf as well. You can find boxer primed .223 and I believe .308 steel cased. I'm sure there are others, but I think your out of luck when it comes to reloading x39. I have managed to find exactly 2 boxer primed brass cases of x39 among the literally thousands of cases I have at the house.
jcwit
member
kestak One of the key words in my post was and still is "MOST". In using that word it does not mean ALL.
So your cases have a scratch, that would be into the case. A scratch denotes a groove below the surface, now tell me how a die with a scratch "groove below surface" produces a scratch "groove below the surface" in the case? One groove producing another groove, Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. Interesting.
Thank you very much.
So your cases have a scratch, that would be into the case. A scratch denotes a groove below the surface, now tell me how a die with a scratch "groove below surface" produces a scratch "groove below the surface" in the case? One groove producing another groove, Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. Interesting.
Thank you very much.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
As already noted, probably nothing.
Galled brass or nickle stuck to the dies surface and scratched the cases.
Reloading dies are hardened to the point a carbide lathe bit will not even cut them.
As the guy at Dillon's said, polish them with fine emery paper, which will remove the galled brass stuck to them, and they will be good as new again.
rc
bobotech
Member
I have 20 pieces of steel Wolf 45 that I have loaded so far at 4 times. It is still working fine.
I DO lube the cases with One Shot lube before running them though the dies.
But they do load up just fine and none have failed yet.
I am doing it mainly as an experiment more than anything else.
I DO lube the cases with One Shot lube before running them though the dies.
But they do load up just fine and none have failed yet.
I am doing it mainly as an experiment more than anything else.
jcwit
member
I did the samething last summer with both steel and alu. cases & had no problems. It also was just an experiment,proved it could be done, why "I dono".
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