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Rem. 742 problem

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valmet12ga

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Nov 4, 2008
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I have a 742 that does not group well. It shoots 6in high, then low etc. I
suspect it could be a gas pressure problem. It does not always cycle completly.
 
742

I would check the obvious, bad crown, lose rear stock and if that's not it then do a detailed cleaning and re-tighten every thing to spec (sounds like some thing is lose). I hope this help
 
There are a lot of variables in your description of the problem. How far away are you shooting? If it's 100 yards, try moving in to 50 (or 50 to 25, etc...). Is this gun scoped or are you using iron sights? If there's an optic involved, I would check those parts first (bad scope or loose base/rings).

My 742 is certainly not what I'd consider a precision rifle, but it does hold 1.5-2 moa groups with anything I feed it and always keeps my freezer stocked. It's my "lucky" rifle :)

Assuming you've already checked the muzzle crown and are shooting factory ammo from a well-supported position to rule out the basics, I would make sure the barrel isn't coming into contact with the stock any place that it shouldn't (moisture can warp the wood) and maybe have a gunsmith check for chamber/barrel erosion and gauge the headspace.

Good luck!
 
Most (but clearly not all) 742 cycle issue are linked to cleaning. Carbon build up and powder fouling. Have the gun completely disassembled and cleaned.
Next if you are shooting with a scope pull it off and use the Iron sights and see if the problem is with the scope and or mounts.

Everything else written is correct as well.
 
I hunted with a Rem 742 for about 15 years. .308 winchester. I used a scope with see thru mount. I killed maybe 40 deer with it. I always used the iron sights because the deer were close. I only used the scope at the range to zero at 100 yards. I didn`t need that rifle scoped.
The twist rate in the barrel was 1-10 inches. The rifle alwys shot accurately with 180 grain factory loads while sighting thru the scope at 100 yds. Bullets would cut the X center nearly every time, exactly where I was aiming. This particular rifle was one of the last made. It was accurate. I kept the barrel/chamber clean and never let rust get started anywhere. The 1-10 twist was fine for 180 grain bullets, but not good for the 150 grain. It wasn`t as accurate with 150 grain bullets. I never tried 165 grain factory loads to see how accurate those were.
I did get into reloading for it with 150 grain round nose 30/30 bullets. These were not accurate. I switched to 165 grain and got better accuracy but not as good accuracy as the 180 grain factory loads. I used IMR3031 powder which is a fast burning powder. Accuracy with this load was hit or miss sometime accurate on target and sometimes not. I killed some deer with it at close range but missed three.
I found an article about accurizing the Rem 742 rifle. The author said that the forearm screw was screwed into the gas block beneath the barrel. Tension on this screw would put stress on the barrel and causes inaccurate shooting. The author said not to tighten the screw tight, but to apply plenty of loktite on the threads and gently turn the screw in place until it stopped turning. That is, do not tighten the screw. Only turn it in until it stops turning and let the loktite cure and hold it. No tension on the gas block and no stress on the barrel. I did this accuracy work myself but I never shot that rifle again to see if it worked. The Rem 742 barrel cannot be free floated. The barrel rests in a channel at the end of the forearm. Trying to remove any wood only results in the barrel resting deeper in this channel and the forearm screw too tight putting stress on the gasblock/barrel.
Generally speaking . Reloads don`t work in the Rem 742 rifles. Light weight factory loads won`t work in it. 180grain bullets are most accurate but heavy bullets tear up more meat. My having to throw away half a deer sometimes because of meat damage is why I tried reloading with lighter bullets and using 150 grain factory loads-- Simply are not accurate in 1-10 twist rate barrel .308 caliber Rem 742.
I eventually saw the light and got a Browning Abolt .308win. Wonderful rifle with half moa accuracy with my handloads. Twist rate is 1-12 and I use 165 grain Hornady flatbase SP over 42.5 grains of Win748. Those 150grain round nose 30/30 bullets get superb accuarcy over 39 grains of IMR3031 in the Abolt rifle. The 150grain roundnose 30/30 bullets cannot be used for deerhunting when fired at 308win velocities. They will disentigrate and not penetrate. Great for paper target accuracy tho.
Hope this info helps some.
 
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Rem. 742 (30-06) doubletaps at range test. Ideas on a fix?

Twice, i.e., two range sessions, my (bought used from reputable dealer) 30-06 Rem. 742 doubletapped. I was range-testing it each time with two rounds in the clip. BANGBANG!

This is not good! The gun was cleaned before and between each session. A gunsmith has it now, but what could be the cause? Worn parts doesn't seem likely--inside it seems barely broken in, though the outside finish shows wear.

Please email if solid experience or opinion on this. [email protected]
 
In the 742 Remington one of the most common cause of jamming whether known or not known has to do with pinging. If you pull back on the action so you can see inside, look on the far side wall of the rifle you will see a rail that is there. After much use this rail gets pinged. you can see where the rail is blunted in places. The worse this gets, the more the gun will jam. Unfortunatly there is no fix. Once it gets there the rifle for all intents and purposes is useless. You will have to retire the rifle and choose another one.
 
Whiteymin is quite right. I shot my first deer in "75" with a 06 742 and since been to gunsmithing school and seen the bolt guides pinged all to hell on many a 742. a 243 was so bad it would lock up in the rear position after each shot. Many years ago when the square lug 7400 and 74s came out, Remington was buying back used 742s with cash toward the new models. Today Remington will not touch a 742 for service. The bolt head lock is totaly inadaquite to keep the bolt head from wanting to rotate into the lock up postion when the bolt body makes the abrupt stop at the rear of the reciever. The lock lets go of the bolt head at that point and the thread type locking lugs gouges the crap out of the bolt body guides in the reciever. For the guys who love their 742's, I have filed off all the high peaning and inserted a slightly stronger lock spring and cleaned up the lock contact points to get a few more trouble free seasons out of the ol girls, but be warned, sooner or later, your 742 will be junk. Phil Hunter (God rest him) once told me he has seen em come into Numrich Arms with split recievers due to bolt head rotation in the rear rails. He was Numrich's shop manager for many years back in the 80s n 90s. Most 742s will simply not shoot accurately after the first 3 or 4 shots. IMO, it is absolutely imperative you sight with a cold barrel. Tinkering with the forarm bolt can improve accuracy on some 742s. Sorry folks, but Remington knew about this many many years before the "improved" 7400 came out. Stick with a 760....that reciever design is First Rate in a pump action.
 
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