Remington 1858 by Richland Arms Co.

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As usual I ask a question and then go googling and find an answer. It seems That Richland is out of business and that they imported mostly shotguns some of which were made in Spain. It would be at least a guess that the ROA at auction was made in Spain. Anyway it wouldn't be anything I'd buy sight unseen.
 
I'm not sure why you want a stainless New Army, but I presume it's for corrosion protection. If so, I would buy a Uberti (for their known quality) and then get it electroless chrome plated. You'll get corrosion protection at least equal to the stainless alloys used in cap & ball revolvers.
 
Excluding Ruger's Old Army, the stainless alloy's tend to be on the soft side. High carbon steel, electroless chrome plated is equally or more corrosion resistant, and provides a harder surface. On the negative side, it adds to the cost of the revolver, which is not a factor with stainless vs. a good plating job, which may also need more polishing.

But then, when you go to the range, ordinary people will swoon in your path... :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :D
 
I think Stainless is a great idea for a BP revolver. Not necessary if you clean your guns well and often but I've had one barrel develop rust pitting along the edges of the rifling when I had to leave it in storage for several months after having done a less than through job on the bore.

Stainless can be soft or too brittle for that matter, but the main problems with stainless is galling of the moving parts even when lubricated. To avoid this the parts that come into contact should be of different alloys.

The main problems with Stainless BP repros has been the use of cutting heads with the wrong angles. Stainless requires a diferent angle of bite than carbon steel.
Some manufacturers used old near worn out tooling reground to cut stainless.
Results were mixed at best.

Also stainless isn't entirely stainless just highly corrosion resistent.
I've seen S&W stainless steel revolvers that were deeply discolored after many years of neglect.

PS
Pop always said that I should never buy a plated pistol, because the manufacturers would used those parts that had been turned down due to visible flaws and self leveling nickle would hide those flaws. He was right, I've had a couple of plated pistols that had hidden flaws.
 
Shawnee, pardon me buddy my eyes must have been crossed. BTW after meeting you and your cowboy hat I had to find mine. I just found it. I'm too tight to buy a good one but our police dept. uniform is a black campaign style felt,I got a used one for free. A little steam and a little bending and forming and it's passable.
 
Stainless should have been called stainsless and there are a lot of different alloys called stainless. Each with it's own purpose. The Italians are not known for their metallurgical skills. I've owned Alfa Romeos and Fiats and I swear if you turn the lights out and be real still you can hear them rust on the showroom floor. I've done a lot of fabricating with stainless allowys and I find that when one taps stainless it The resulted threads are like minute claw garrenting that the fasteners will gauld eachother And will require anti zize to insure the gun coming apart. How about a stainless barrel and cylinder and frame but all of the moving parts made from silicone bronze. the bronze would tend to make the action smooth. It's rather corrosion resistent easy to machine and the allowy was intended to be used in shear condition such as bushings.
 
BTW after meeting you and your cowboy hat I had to find mine.
Got a Hat here you'd like. I borrowed it from a friend for use in our sci fi western.
Its a Cowboy hat made from some sort of space age fiber. You can wad the hat up into a ball and stuff it in a pocket then just pull it out and shake it a few times and it returns to shape without a wrinkle as if freshly steamed and blocked.

Beryllium Bronze is up to three times tougher than tool steel and has been used in .45/70 revolvers.
A Confederate style Colt made using this alloy of Bronze would never fail.
It would be a good choice for just about any BP revolver design.
 
Hi Pancho...

I'm certainly not a metalurgist but wouldn't bronze be overly susceptible to wear on the moving parts ? I suppose some bronze alloys could give good service (assuming it was used in conjunction with a proper hat, of course:D).
Is the function of the bronze chiefly to guard against brittleness ? :confused:

FWIW, the stainless used in th ROAs, at least the early ones, appears (to my untrained eyes) to be of pretty good quality.

Got the shoulder surgery done last wednesday. Being "one-armed" is the Absolute Pits ! :barf:
 
As you know Shawnee been there done that with the shoulder thing. The brace is truly a pain. How'd you do cleaning yourself after your morning constitution using your off hand? Heal Fast!
Back to bronze, I believe it would be perfectly suited for high abrasion situations as in a gun action. Silicon Bronze is used as bushings, pilot bearings,light duty axle bearings etc. and as Roswell says some of the bronze alloys are tougher than tool steel.
 
Metal Guys - how can you tell the difference between a steel cylinder and an iron cylinder without destroying the cylinder?
This isn't a trick question - I just want to know.
 
These days most of what people call cast iron is actually cast steel.
I don't know of any way other than perhaps a Rockwell hardness test or polishing a surface and etching it then looking for the grain under a powerful microscope.
There is probably a very slight difference in specific gravity as well.

I have seen White Iron that would take a smooth mirror finish. It just depends on the original ore more than anything else. Northern magnetic ores are stronger on average, with fewer impurities.
 
I don't want to hijack this thread any more, so I'll post a new topic (Spiller & Burr) to tell you why I want to know how to tell steel from iron.
 
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