Remington 1858 Pietta hammer hits the frame

[jhon]

Hi,

Picked up a couple Remington New Model Army's at the Cabela's sale. One works pretty much flawlessly, the other has a problem. The nose of the hammer is hitting the left side of the frame and is starting to gouge the frame where it hits. It drags pretty bad on that left side too. The hammer has quite a bit of side-to-side play in the frame, and I think the bolt might be pushing on the hammer and tilting it towards the left enough it makes contact. I though about shimming it, but after messing with it for a while I don't think that's an option. Does anybody else have this problem?

The second revolver's hammer also seems to lean left, but not bad enough that it hits the frame.

 

[Old Fuff]

Fortunately you bought it from Cabelas because they have excellent customer service. I would return it for an exchange. The alternative is to file metal away from the frame to clear the nose of the hammer, but doing this might or might not work, and if it didn't you might have voided the warantee.

 

[scrat]

Send it back the Old Fuff is correct

 

[madcratebuilder]

You can send it back. File the frame. Does the hammer wobble on the hammer screw. If the pivot hole in the hammer is over size you could drill it and make a bushing, that would tighten it up.

 

[shooterJim]

I would send it back, like others have posted, Cabelas is a great company to deal with and will exchange it. I had a simular problem with a 1860 army, They exchanged it for another one with no problems.

 

[banek]

Just took a look at my 44 Remington from Cabela's and everything looks OK. A friend of mine bought the Pietta Colt and it had several flaws and burrs on it. Cabela's took it back even after he tried to clean it up

Banek

 

[ClemBert]

No brainer...send it back for exchange with a new one. It'll give you something to look forward to when checking the mail.

 

[Ginormous]

It'll give you something to look forward to when checking the mail.

Isn't that the truth!

 

[AdmiralB]

This is pretty common with both Remington-styles and ROAs. In fact, there are shims available for Ruger single-actions specifically for this problem (Brownell's sells them).

My 1858 did this, a little bit. Shimming cured it.

 

[ClemBert]

I had a similar problem with a recently purchased 1858 Remmie.




I sent it back to the importer not because of this problem but because the barrel was rotated out of alignment by 5 degrees.



The importer was very agreeable to taking it back and exchanging it for a new one. Unfortunately, they did not have any more of the standard blue 1858 Remmies in stock or in country. They ended up sending me an upgrade to what I purchased at no cost to me. I guess you could say it was fortunate they didn't have the standard blue finish in stock.




The replacement is PERFECT!

 

[Tommygunn]

Clembert, that is one verrrrrrryy nice Remmie!
Looks like Uberti. I didn't know they made a color case hardened version.
I have a Pietta that's sorta similar but has checkered grips.
I wish it was a Uberti!

 

[ClemBert]

Yes, it is Uberti. It is what they call charcoal blue finish with color case hardened frame. It is the charcoal blue that really makes it glow.

 

[Kal52]

I just got mine tonight and I noticed the same problem, will be sending it back, shame too, this one has a pretty nice finish to it.

Hope I get one that works as good as it looks next time.

 

[Hellgate]

You know, It might be best to actually shoot the guns. I've had to twist the barrels on a couple of Piettas in order to get them to shoot POA windage wise. If they are way off, send them back. If they shoot to POA then you have to think about it.

 

[Kal52]

sorry didnt explain, my problem was the hammer hitting the frame, its pretty slight but enough for me to send it back, I dont want things to wear out prematurely

 

[scrat]

WOW clembart

 

[Ginormous]

Wow is right. Charcoal blue is an awesome finish. It fairly glows in the dark!

 

[rcflint]

The problem is a combination of things usually found in Piettas. The hole in the hammer is too large for the pivot screw, allowing the hammer to tilt from the pressure of the bolt's cam riding wing. If the bolt's wing is bent inward to relieve some pressure it may help, but may adversely affect the timing. I have soldered on bushings to move the hammer over. (It could be a loose bushing, but reassembly would be harder). I have also made a new, larger diameter screw to better fit the hammer's pivot hole. The hammer could also be bushed as suggested, as long as the hole drilled out for the bushing doesn't affect any other part like the cam, etc. Whether Pietta's newer guns, now CNC'd in machining are better, I don't know, but Pietta should be asked about the situation.

 

[Old Fuff]

Wow is right. Charcoal blue is an awesome finish. It fairly glows in the dark!

Actually it isn't charcoal blue as originally used by Colt and Remington, as well as others.

But a more important point is that it wears fairly quickly, and in this context conventional bluing is better.

If you intend to keep the revolver for display purposes, the mis-named charcoal blue is fine. If you plan to use it as a shooter, save your money.

 

[Ginormous]

What bluing procedure gives that finish, Old Fluff?

 

[Old Fuff]

During the 19th century it was called "nitre blue," or "fire blue," and was used to color small parts, such as screws, triggers, hammers (that weren't case hardened) and such. The highly polished and degreased parts were put in a bath kept at about 570 to 650 degrees (F) and the parts submerged in a basket. When they reached the desired color the basket was removed and the parts quenched. Simple and inexpensive, but the color is thin and wears quickly.

If you want to try it on small parts (I don’t recommend it for frames, barrels, cylinders, backstraps or trigger guards) you can buy the materials from:

www.brownells.com

You will need a heat source that will keep the bath, which is reusable, at the required temperature, and an iron pot to hold the bath.

 

[ClemBert]

Actually it isn't charcoal blue as originally used by Colt and Remington, as well as others.

As I said: It is what they call charcoal blue finish

If you plan to use it as a shooter, save your money.

It didn't cost me a dime over what I paid for a standard blue finish. It is what they sent as a replacement; no extra charge. I have every intention on destroying that finish by shooting it! The pictures are so I can remember what it used to look like.

 

[Old Fuff]

My post wasn't aimed at you, or your revolver - but rather as a reply to Ginormous. Notice that the quote in my post was lifted from his.

Anyway, as far as I'm concerned there is no reason you shouldn't shoot your new toy. Keeping the finish unworn isn't always an important consideration; but I did want to tip off others that might pay extra for the "charcoal blue" finish, and then be frustrated when it quickly wore off. If anyone is to blame it is those manufacturers that claim their blue is charcoal blue when it isn't.

Hopefully this will sooth any hard feelings...

 

[ClemBert]

Now way man...no hard feelings. I hope you didn't take it that way. That is a good point you make about what Uberti calls charcoal blue. Looks purty when new but that look should not be expected to stay intact especially when it is a shooter. The only shooters I know of that maintain their new appearance are the brushed stainless. Only because it is easy to remedy any scuffs. Even regular blued guns are going to have wear on the finish. But as you point out, the regular blue is so much more durable than the Uberti charcoal blue. I think this firearm should weather pretty nicely and eventually get to that aged look.

Cheers!

 

[BHP FAN]

I have an 1875 Remmie in .45 LC by Uberti with that light blue on it,and a color cased frame.The color of the frame is fadeing,but the barrel and cylinder are actually turning a deep plum,almost a purple brown,from handleing and my BP cartridge loads.