Remington 700 bolt lock

[SunnySlopes]

I took delivery of a Remington stainless 700 LH 30-06 rifle. I honestly can't tell if it's been fired.

One thing though, there is a little locking cylinder on the left side of the bolt shroud. Perusing pictures of Remington 700 rifles, used and new, some have it, most don't.

Was that a feature they installed then discontinued?

 

[LoonWulf]

Yeah, they had it on there early-mid 2ks I think, then dropped it.

 

[badkarmamib]

My + 2004 Model 700 .30/06 has that bolt, it has a J-shaped opening for the key. The key sits in a box of extra parts, where it will likely remain forever.

 

[LoonWulf]

Yeah, I'm all for extra safety where it counts, but those locks on the firearms them selves we're stupid.
I'd honestly rather have some big lock thing dangling from the gun so you can forget it's locked.

 

[Offfhand]

Happily, that key lock series was short lived. One reason it was dropped was because it created internal issues that negatively affected performance. Some vendors offered replacement kits.

 

[SunnySlopes]

I googled it and saw numerous posts by owners of guns with the lock and said it's never been an issue and that accuracy is on par with their 700s that don't have the lock.

I'll play with the gun and maybe swap the bolt shroud/firing pin out someday. It's not a target gun, after all. 30-06 in a really lightweight rifle (and with the stock, it is light) is not much fun for lengthy target sessions.

 

[Offfhand]

I replaced mine and the improvement was very obvious. So I guess it depends on what you call par.

 

[SunnySlopes]

I replaced mine and the improvement was very obvious. So I guess it depends on what you call par.

Did you do this yourself? Which replacement firing pin assembly did you use? Mine is a stainless left handed action and like all things left handed, choices are limited.

 

[Offfhand]

It replaces the shroud, firing pin and spring. Right and left should be the same. The issue is caused by the spring bunching and binding inside the bolt, leading to recognizable accuracy problems. I bought my rifle for Silhouette competition, so top accuracy is more important than for hunting. It occurs to me that the spring issue may be less of a problem with M-700 long actions than with the short actions like mine. Shoot it and decide.

 

[SunnySlopes]

Did you do this yourself? Or did you use a gunsmith? Where did you buy the firing pin assembly?

Like I said, it'll strictly be a hunting rifle. It's very light weight with a smooth action. It almost wouldn't even be an issue, accuracy or otherwise, except for the fact that Remington used the same template for the J lock on both the right, and left, handed rifles. For LH rifles that means the J lock protrusion almost impedes proper function of the safety. "Almost." The safety actually works fine, but the J wart sticks out enough that it's going to wake up my thumb, on occasion. Especially on cold days.

I googled the subject and didn't find anybody who actually had a problem with the lock. But here are some random posts from different threads/different forums, on the subject:

I own several of them and to be honest about it the guns shoot just fine. 2-LSS 7 Mags, 1-LSS 7mm Ultra Mag

I've heard just about everything from they impeded firing pin travel, causing inconsistent lock time, to they plain old look ugly. Never spoke to anyone who actually had one that caused problems.

One of the most accurate rifles I have built has a godforsaken J Lock on it. For the most part it is hype. He said, that he heard, that someone said, that he said type of BS.

I've replaced any J-locks I've had. Never had an issue with them but it's easy preventative maintenance.

Two of my rifles came with the J-lock. One of them got a replacement shroud/pin setup by Callahan for $45. Easy fix. The other one still has the j-lock, as the bolt operates just fine.

We've got 2 with J locks and haven't had any trouble

the J-Lock sucks for many reasons ... but the reality is that as long as you carry the "key" with you, and maintain the rifle properly, the odds are that it won't cause you any ills ...

I have a jlock in 223 and it doesn't have any problem with half inch groups.

My J-Lock Remmy shoots bug holes! The only problem I have is the time to enjoy it and money to feed it.

I have the exact gun you are looking at and with 87 vmax and a stiff dose of IMR4064 I have shot several 3" groups at 500 meters with it, and killed PD's out to 679 yards. It is my hands down favorite rifle and I notice no problem with the J-lock.

I know about changing out FP assemblies, but I doubt if I replace the J-lock that it would shoot any better, really.

I've not noticed the j-lock to hinder the accuracy of a dedicated hunting rifle. My Model 7 shot just as well with the j-lock as it does with the Gre-Tan unit installed.

Dont tell the several animals I've shot from 500-915 yards with remingtons that had the jlock, they might not believe you, lol.

Seriously doubt anyone would be able to tell the difference between the 2.

Leave it unlocked and you dont have to worry about a stupid key.

 

[lightman]

I've replaced several in the 700's that I own. The older ones have "bunched up springs" less often than the newer ones. If it has a "bunched up spring' I automatically change it. I've used ones from Darrell Holland and from Pacific Tool and Gauge. I think Midway offers them too. I have a tool for doing this but you can do it with a dime and any hard surface.

 

[SunnySlopes]

Thanks for the Holland lead. I've not heard of him and his company never came up via googlefoo.

Pacific Tool and Gauge came up though. They're like a rash on the internet with people complaining about poor customer service. Especially touching are the testimonials by former employees. (sarcasm = off)

Concerning Darrell Holland. Have you used him? Is the assembly a drop in? Or does it require master gunsmithing skills?

thanx again.

 

[Hookeye]

Mine had it.
Factory ammo at .75" for 5 at 100 yards.
X mark pro trigger was usable.

I just hated the looks of the J lock, so ordered a Gre-Tan pin/shroud.
Had to add some weight back to my trigger!

Still shooting .75" for 5 at 100 yards.

Looks better though.

J locks different, can't do the penny/dime deal.
Easiest way is bootlace.
Look it up on Youtube.

 

[Hookeye]

I never used the J lock when my rifle had it...........was on there for years.
No problems, other than looks.
Decided I had to finally get rid of that ugly thing.
And yes, I detest the giant warning labels Ruger slapped on many of their guns.

 

[SunnySlopes]

I've replaced several in the 700's that I own. The older ones have "bunched up springs" less often than the newer ones. If it has a "bunched up spring' I automatically change it. I've used ones from Darrell Holland and from Pacific Tool and Gauge. I think Midway offers them too. I have a tool for doing this but you can do it with a dime and any hard surface.

I just got off the phone with Mrs. Holland and ordered the stainless LA firing pin assembly. She assured me it was a drop in configuration but, we'll see. I've done Harry Homeowner stuff most of my life and if there's one thing I've learned is that no job is as easy as it seems in the concept phase.

I also checked out Pacific but their reviews gave me pause.

 

[Offfhand]

I used the Holland kit and it has worked fine. Installation is easy with simple tools. Just a matter of holding the cocking piece back in cocked position (place dime in slot to hold it.) twist old unit out and replace with new unit, again with new cocking piece held in cocked position with coin.

 

[lightman]

Thanks for the Holland lead. I've not heard of him and his company never came up via googlefoo.

Pacific Tool and Gauge came up though. They're like a rash on the internet with people complaining about poor customer service. Especially touching are the testimonials by former employees. (sarcasm = off)

Concerning Darrell Holland. Have you used him? Is the assembly a drop in? Or does it require master gunsmithing skills?

thanx again.

I've been away from the thread and didn't see this until now. The Holland units that I had were straight drop in. On my rifles with Jewell triggers did readjust them, as they are easy to adjust.

 

[jmr40]

I've never heard of it effecting accuracy. Don't see how it could. But in extremely rare cases they have been known to unintentionally lock the rifle and make it useless until the key is inserted. Which could be a major issue since most people simply unlocked them and trashed the key.

 

[Hookeye]

J lock firing pin springs bunch inside the bolt. There is added drag.
I guess as long as it's consistent it shouldn't be a problem.
Changed mine out so there won't be.

Also don't see how the J lock gets activated without somebody using a tool.
Left mine off and it never came on............years.
Was ugly so dumped it.

Purchased one of these

https://www.gretanrifles.com/product-page/rem-700-fluted-steel-short-f-p-assembly-satin-black

 

[SunnySlopes]

Thanks for all the above. Hookeye, thanks for the link. I've got one on order from Holland but your guys look good too.

As an aside, I emailed the gun's serial number to Remington to find out what it is. One person assumed since it's a blind magazine rifle that it's an ADL. That's cool, cause it's a smooth action and all, even though there's no record of Remington making the ADL in stainless left handed.

But the Remington Customer Service department said it's a model 700 KS Mountain Rifle. It was manufactured in 2002.

What's "KS" stand for? Remington's online description also says the trigger is adjustable. How does that work?

Also, in that time frame, based on my googlefoo, it's likely a Brown Precision stock. It looks exactly like their gray stock.

But I wonder if there was a particular Brown Precision stock they used? Mostly I wonder if it's the Kevlar.............

Again, thanks for the responses.

 

[Hookeye]

FWIW I thought the KS stood for "Kevlar stainless"
If it has a Walker style trigger there are 3 adjustment screws.
And if it has that, the factory reset spring is short and of thick coil.
IMHO it doesn't allow for much adjustment.............and when adjusting triggers you can only adjust them within their safe operating limits, you can't just pick a pull weight value and set it there. Surface finish and tolerances/slop all add up to what you can do.
There is a spring kit to make the Walker better.
But most folks just panic after watching the CNBC pseudo journalism bit on the 700 and swap in a Timney.
Honestly, if they couldn't see the nonsense in that show, or adjust a Walker to safe............they proly shouldn't even swap in a Timney.
Should instead pay to have somebody of experience do it for them.
Not trying to be an arse...........but have bought a couple rifles where folks made them unsafe, and one guy supposedly knew WTH he was doing.
Just because a guy kills deer, or shoots a fair amount, doesn't mean he should own a screwdriver LOL.
OK, soapbox mode off

700 KS..............nice rig. You lucky dog!

 

[Offfhand]

I've never heard of it effecting accuracy. Don't see how it could.

The problem is not the lock itself, but the configuration INSIDE the bolt. Remove the firing pin and spring and you'll immediately see the problem and understand why it can cause accuracy problems. You can even feel it when dry firing.

 

[SunnySlopes]

Thanks again Hookeye. You know your stuff.

 

[Hookeye]

BTW, 700 BDL or ADL.........I empty my rifles the same way. Learned as a kid w my 660........

I do not cram rounds in and out of the chamber to unload my rifle.
Merely bump them from the magazine feed lips and they come free, never fully closing the bolt..
Always pointed a safe direction.
I just give a little bump, the cartridge gets loose and I flick the gun and the round lands in my hand.
Can do it rather quickly, smoothly too. Repeatedly. Bump n flick..

Yet, I still see folks, of experience, on the ranges, just cranking those rounds in and out like madmen.
I don't get it.

I find the clattering floorplate when a BDL is opened to dump cartridges out the bottom to be rather annoying.
In action, looks and sound. Just never liked it.
But then, my 660 back in elementary school was a blind mag gun.

To me, ramming rounds in and out of the chamber is just asking for something bad.
Maybe it shouldn't, if max safety design was had.
But then aren't we not supposed to trust safeties?
Use but do not trust.

Muzzle control is #1.

If you change a J lock FP/shroud to something else.........you might have a lighter trigger pull.
Maybe way lighter.

Mine did. It was tested safe, but I still thought it edgy, so added weight back, this on an X mark pro even.
And I like pretty light triggers.

 

[Hookeye]

A guy at my old club, bought a KS in .220 swift, think first model, maybe was a 40XB-KS.
He loaded it so hot (infamous for it) that it locked up.
Ol Steve just laughed.
Brand new gun. Was OK, he backed em off a tad.

Anyway, that's when I learned about the "KS" meaning (actually before then, when he bought it - was there shopping myself). Had some Remington catalogs back then...........think that what the letters stood for.

Been what 20 yrs or longer.

I forget stuff nowadays.