Remove Blast Stains on Cylinder?

[dapster]

Might there be any recommended way to remove the blast stains from the forward face of a revolver's cylinder finished in nickel?

 

[DMZ]

Just leave them there. You can take them off with several products (use only on stainless steel), but they come right back.

Most recommended method is Lead Away cloth. I have used Brasso with good success. I have read where a bronze brush and strong solvent will work as well.

I gave up on it long ago as I figured out is mostly a waste of time and effort.

 

[kanook]

Birchwood Casey lead removing and polishing cloth, use on stainless only.

 

[Eightball]

Birchwood Casey lead removing and polishing cloth, use on stainless only.

This.

 

[pj150]

A little fitz works great. These below are steel cylinders but I did the same with my Nickel Model 19 and it worked just the same

 

[Shrinkmd]

Mpro7 and brass brush get most off, a little Lead away cloth for stubborn remnants. It isn't that hard to get the cylinder clean.

 

[MortalWombat]

I don't know about nickel, but I like them on my stainless revolvers for some reason. I look at it as mark of character, like the turn marks on the cylinder. Also I figure if I ever have to use one in defense, I want whoever is on the other end to see that this thing has been shot a lot, and that I'm not a newbie at shooting things. Maybe it might give him something to think about before he decides to do something stupid.

 

[Old Fuff]

Any of the methods mentioned above will work on stainless steel, but there can be negative consequences on blue or nickel plate. Over time you will damage the finish on both. It doesn't take much to remove the blue. Nickel takes longer, but if you frequently polish off the discoloration the plating will be damaged too.

And it's largely a waste of time and effort. As soon as you shoot the revolver again the marks are back. The marks in and of themselves don't cause any problems, and all they show is that you shoot the gun. Frankly I don't see that as being a bad thing.

 

[yeti]

Had a friend that used to polish the bottom of the soles and heels on his shoes, never understood it, but it never bothered me either, and it made him happy. The lead away cloth does a good enough job on stainless.

 

[Drail]

I would leave them alone. Having the nickel plating intact is more important than getting rid of the carbon fouling.

 

[pps]

If you really MUST, then slip 2000 carbon Killer does the trick. I've found it's a PITA and unnecessary. If I had something nickel plated I would not screw with it.

 

[CSA 357]

I dont let it worry me, i dont scrub the cylinder face as it will harm the gun over time,

 

[Dr.Rob]

Try "Nevr-Dull" magic wadding polish, its essentially wool soaked in lanolin, its non-toxic and unless the surface its laquered should take that stuff right off.

 

[KBintheSLC]

I agree with those who said to leave it be. I just clean it with solvent and a soft toothbrush to get the powder residue off... the dark rings stay there and do not effect the cylinder gap. I don't want to risk messing up the finish, and it looks like a working gun with the rings on... lets the bad guy know that this gun gets shot.

 

[357phase]

I know a pencil eraser will take the powder burns of a stainless cylinder.You might give it a try.It works.

 

[.38 Special]

pj150 is right about Flitz. It is a sort-of standard for cleaning nickel guns. I've never heard of it damaging the finish.

But I'll add my voice to the rest: if you are about to photograph the gun or need it extra spiffy for some occasion, then go right ahead. But as part of the routine cleaning it's just a waste of time, and even though I've never heard of Flitz harming a gun, it is an abrasive and, at least theoretically, any abrasive will eventually start to remove the finish.

 

[Confederate]

The lead-away cloth is the easiest and it won't harm your gun. I go through the extra trouble, myself, with my stainless guns, I admit it. Still, I could sleep at night knowing the powder rings were there. I wouldn't want to go through the nickel finish, though, and that would be my only concern about using harsher abrasives. Flitz and Semichrome polishing paste also works.

The patches remove lead from the bore, too.


.

 

[JWF III]

I must be odd or something. I always liked the looks of the carbon on the front of cylinders. I love the way Mikeluc's (sp?) guns look. Maybe one day I'll have enough shots fired from one to match that look. Well I guess I have to get over my dislike of stainless first.

Wyman

 

[dapster]

357phase,
Wow, the eraser really does work. I honestly thought the suggestion was a joke. Nevertheless, I sheepishly tried it, anyway. Thanks so much from the original poster.

 

[Noxx]

I know a pencil eraser will take the powder burns of a stainless cylinder.You might give it a try.It works.

Dip my ass in gravy and call me a biscuit, he's right.

 

[Walkalong]

Who would a thunk it? Well...someone did.

 

[357phase]

No credit here.I got this off another post,probably from this forum from way back

 

[jhco]

There like dirt on tires, its gonna come back as soon as you use it again. Just leave it

 

[gpr]

dremel wheel #520 works well...gpr