Removing the cylinder

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BowerR64

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Im curious how you guys remove the cylinder on say a 1858 or on an old Army?

The hammer is mainly my interest.

What steps?
 
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I've been toying with my Pietta '58, and have found it so much easier to replace by slightly pulling back the hammer to pull in the hand. Without doing so it really prevents the cylinder from going in without really jacking with it.

I've not really messed with this on my ROA.
 
Dont really understand the question. The hammer should be at half cock so that you dont drag the back of the cyl. over the bolt and scratch it. Or, in the case of a Remmy, to get the bolt out of the way so you can remove/install the cyl.

45 Dragoon
 
Well i never really gave it much thought till i went to Phils and he showed me how to put the lever pin back on the Old Army.

He mentioned to never touch it once its half cocked.

I normally move the hammer back and forth as i move the cylinder.

He pointed out with a conversion cylinder your loading in live rounds so half cock is the only safe way to do it that it didnt need fiddeling with.

I wondered if i was the only one who move the hammer around while trying to remove and install it.
 
Thats why I'm REAL picky who I let handel any of my S.A.s. So many people dont know proper S.A etiquette !! You NEVER touch the cylinder unless the hammer is at half cock or you are letting the hammer down between chambers as/for a safety (which is done from half cock position). In other words, the gun "knows" where the cylinder should be so keep your hands OFF!!!!

45 Dragoon
 
Yeah i was neevr taught the proper way i had to kinda figure it out on my own from trial and error.

These guns arnt very common around here i only know a few who shoot them.
 
My cylinder is empty when I do such, but it's quite difficult to get in without pulling the hammer partially to pull in the hand on my '58.

My Ruger cylinder isn't quite so difficult, though it doesn't go in as easily as the '58 with the hand drawn in.

I'm curious how this might be abusive to a SA unloaded pistol.
 
Because the only time the hand & bolt is retracted inside the frame on a single-action of any kind is when the hammer is on half-cock loading position.

Any other hammer position is leaving something hanging out in the breeze waiting to scratch or drag on the cylinder.

rc
 
When my Pietta is at half cock the hand sticks out maybe 1/8 inch, which greatly hinders the ability to place the cylinder back in.
 
BowerR64 said:
Im curious how you guys remove the cylinder on say a 1858 or on an old Army?

The hammer is mainly my interest.

What steps?

I'm new here and just a "dumb blonde" but isn't this just common sense and something you should know before you even shoot? :)

I got familiar with the revolver before I even shot it. You just put the hammer on half cock, release the loading lever, pull the cylinder pin and then the cylinder rotates out to the right. Reverse the order to put the cylinder back in.

Is this not the correct way to do it? :confused:
 
My cylinder is empty when I do such, but it's quite difficult to get in without pulling the hammer partially to pull in the hand on my '58.

My Ruger cylinder isn't quite so difficult, though it doesn't go in as easily as the '58 with the hand drawn in.

I'm curious how this might be abusive to a SA unloaded pistol.
Thats the same problem i have on almost all of mine as well thats why i sort of work the hammer wich moves the hand up and down till the cylinder finds the sweet spot and drops out. Same when putting it back in my hand still seems to stick out enough that it takes some wiggeling to slide back in.

Sometimes if the bolt is up you can fit the bottom of the cylinder into the slot and then the hammer on one of the nipples you know its square in the frame then you can fight with the cylinder pin.
 
Wow! Barbie is exactly right!! You ROTATE the cylinder out (which allows the ratchet to push the hand back and out of the way). Likewise, you ROTATE the cyl. in which allows the ratchet to do the same thing.

Way to teach these guys a thing or two Barbie!!!!!

45 Dragoon
 
Cool so you guys can swap out cylinders like eastwood?

Ide love to see some videos of that.

school me Obi-Wan your my only hope.
 
I've swapped out cylinders both ways. Since the new charged cylinder is never capped until its securely in place and the hammer on half cock either way is safe. I prefer pulling the cylinder pin out first with my left hand, then putting my left hand under the cylinder, then pulling the hammer back a bit to retract the bolt and hand, dropping the spent cylinder into my left hand. The charged but uncapped cylinder is loaded in a reverse manner.
 
Yep, just need to roll the cylinder slightly to catch and push the spring loaded hand back out of the way as the cylinder moves out or in.

I suspect Easwood's gun had the hand removed to let him change it that easily. I noticed that there was no rolling of the new cylinder to get it into place. He's good, but he's not THAT good... :D

There's a bunch of You Tube videos on the 58 already. That's where I learned to roll the cylinder a little to kick the hand out of the way with out any damage to it.
 
My cylinder is empty when I do such, but it's quite difficult to get in without pulling the hammer partially to pull in the hand on my '58.

My Ruger cylinder isn't quite so difficult, though it doesn't go in as easily as the '58 with the hand drawn in.

I'm curious how this might be abusive to a SA unloaded pistol.

I guess we should go back to cartridge guns :eek:

Quick cylinder swap 1

Quick cylinder swap 2

The second one is so fast the sound doesnt even match.
 
I'm new here and just a "dumb blonde" but isn't this just common sense and something you should know before you even shoot? :)

I got familiar with the revolver before I even shot it. You just put the hammer on half cock, release the loading lever, pull the cylinder pin and then the cylinder rotates out to the right. Reverse the order to put the cylinder back in.

Is this not the correct way to do it? :confused:
No dumb blond, you are correct.

Been following this thread and was waiting for someone to state the obvious.

On the 58, insert cylinder from the right, while rotating it to the right, this retracts the hand and puts cylinder into position to insert pin.

I have no problem changing out a cylinder in just a couple of seconds.
 
Thank you, Mr. 45 Dragoon and Mr. Palehorseman. :)

Thought I was doing it correct. :rolleyes:

After a couple a minutes of practice, I can now change cylinders in just a few seconds. ;)
 
I pull the cylinder pin out and pull the hammer back a little bit until the bolt and hand are clear from it and drop it right out. I never really read any directions on it. Maybe I should start reading directions and things might work correctly :p
 
There's a video on YT with a guy that changes out like 10 cylinders real fast and shoots. I saw it a while back. I'll look it up.
 
raa-7 said:
I pull the cylinder pin out and pull the hammer back a little bit until the bolt and hand are clear from it and drop it right out. I never really read any directions on it. Maybe I should start reading directions and things might work correctly

You think, maybe? ;) Come on you guys.

My Dad, rest his soul, would always get something and throw away the directions, saying he didn't need them. I would get them from the trash and read them and then when he had problems, I made suggestions on what the problem was. :)
 
You think, maybe? ;) Come on you guys.

My Dad, rest his soul, would always get something and throw away the directions, saying he didn't need them. I would get them from the trash and read them and then when he had problems, I made suggestions on what the problem was. :)
My daughter would do that if she saw me scratching my head, wondering why something wasn't working right.:p welcome to THR Barbie :)
 
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