Replacement Motor

[ArchAngelCD]

I have a Dillon CV-500 tumbler with a bad motor. I contacted Dillion about 3 years ago or so and asked them if they can fix it. They told me the motors were not holding up so they started using the motors that are in the CV-2001 tumbler in the now discontinued CV-500 and came out with the CV-750. They offered to upgrade my 500 but the price was close to what a new 750 would cost so at the time I bought a Berry's 400 in Cabela's Green as a replacement.

Fast forward to today, while cleaning the basement I came across the CV-500 and was wondering if I could replace the motor with a similar motor bought from a third party? Anyone ever do this? If yes, where online can I buy a good motor and what do I need to match up to make it work?

Sorry for the long post and thanks for any suggestions you can give me.

 

[FROGO207]

My CV500 had a bad rubber bushing that held the bearing in place on the weight side. I took it apart and replaced it with injected silicone and let it cure for 48 HRS. Then put it back in service has worked for about two years so far but now I wet tumble the majority of my brass. I only use this one to remove the lube after sizing mostly now. If you find one to use make sure it has a thermal overload built in. Otherwise it could become a fire hazard if it seizes up in the future. Granger or McMaster Carr would be a place to go for a same size motor.

 

[Walkalong]

Granger or McMaster Carr would be a place to go for a same size motor.

Match up the bolt pattern and the thickness (Amperage) of the plates (Stator).

 

[jmorris]

What's "bad" on it? If it's just the bronze bushing on the counterbalance end of the motor worn so the rotor can contact the stator, just replace the bushing and carry on.

If your going to replace, the RPM it turns is going to be very important.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

Thanks for the help so far every one, it is appreciated.

 

[fouled bore]

Pull the motor out and see if it has any numbers on it. If so go to Digikey.com and search for it there. They have OEM parts. Most likely you will find the same motor that the MFG put in it and at a good price. I had an actuator in my van go bad. The dealer wanted $100 for it. I took it apart and found the motor on digikey for $5 plus shipping.

 

[mahansm]

The speed rating of the motor is not important; in the USA all those little shaded pole induction motors run at about 3400-3500 RPM. The speed is inherent in the design of the motor.
Of course, in Europe they'd run at 2800-2900 RPM.

 

[jmorris]

The speed rating of the motor is not important; in the USA all those little shaded pole induction motors run at about 3400-3500 RPM. The speed is inherent in the design of the motor.

That is why I said speed is important to know. In the hundreds of shaded pole motors Granger lists.

https://www.grainger.com/category/ecatalog/N-1z0dw5i

None are between 3400-3500 rpm.

Surprised me and likely the reason it's not always easy to find replacement motors for them.

 

[Walkalong]

3400-3500 rpm.

I would be very surprised if the tumbler motors run that fast.

A quick search shows that type of motor comes in many different RPM ratings.

 

[jmorris]

I would be very surprised if the tumbler motors run that fast.

The large Dillon is 3400 rpm but like I said must be somewhat rare if granger doesn't carry something like it.

I even googled the Emerson part number on the motor and only found a thread where someone was trying to find a replacement.

3400/1700 rpm motors are very common in larger size motors though.

No markings on my other tumbler motors, if I get a chance I'll get my tach out and measure tomorrow.

 

[fouled bore]

The large Dillon is 3400 rpm but like I said must be somewhat rare if granger doesn't carry something like it.

I even googled the Emerson part number on the motor and only found a thread where someone was trying to find a replacement.

Check Digikey.com

 

[Walkalong]

The large Dillon is 3400 rpm

Interesting. I have never heard a Dillon run, but my Berrys definitely sounds slower than 3400. I am curious now.

 

[mahansm]

Rotational speed for an induction motor is determined by the following:

power frequency * 60 * 2
------------------------------ * (1 - % slip)
number of poles

From this we see that speed is a function of the power frequency, the number of poles, and the % slip. For our purposes the power frequency is fixed at 60 Hz. Since the motors
are built with a goal of minimizing initial cost, they are 2 pole designs. This leaves only
the percentage slip as a variable in determining speed. Our base speed is 3600 RPM (this is the speed that is approached with no load on the motor) and decreases with increasing load. The nameplate RPM is a nominal value for full load operation.

Since poles always come in pairs, there are a few conclusions that we can draw:
1. There is a set of defined speed ranges that are available for an AC motor on a given frequency derived from the nominal base speeds available. For 60 Hz input, the base speeds (in RPM) available are 3600, 1800, 1200, 900, 720, 600, and so forth.
2. for motors of similar design (single phase AC shaded pole induction), the operational speeds will also be similar.

This means that we can simply purchase a motor of comparable size and power rating as a replacement without worrying overly much about the speed. Overtemperature protection and robust bearing design are of much greater concern.

 

[jmorris]

This means that we can simply purchase a motor of comparable size and power rating as a replacement without worrying overly much about the speed. Overtemperature protection and robust bearing design are of much greater concern.

This one is of comparable size and power.

https://www.grainger.com/product/FASCO-1-20-HP-32NA51?functionCode=P2IDP2PCP

But I wouldn't expect it to have the same action if it's turning at less than half the speed of the original.

 

[mahansm]

You are right. It's a 4 pole motor that doesn't have a chance of fitting the mounts. I also noticed the price; I can pick up a complete tumbler at Harbor Freight for less.

 

[splattergun]

Fast forward to today, while cleaning the basement I came across the CV-500 and was wondering if I could replace the motor with a similar motor bought from a third party? Anyone ever do this? If yes, where online can I buy a good motor and what do I need to match up to make it work?

It has to match voltage and be close to same output speed.

It needs to fit the give space.

The spindle should match, or be able to be replaceable so you can use your original spindle.

Match up the bolt pattern if possible, but if you can't you should be able to make your own mount holes.

 

[Bula]

Maybe a local electric motor rebuilder?

 

[ArchAngelCD]

Maybe a local electric motor rebuilder?

I thought if that, thanks. There are none that I can find. There are no small anything around here anymore. No small pharmacies, hardware stores, candy stores, nothing.

 

[Walkalong]

Unless it is a rare motor, it isn't worth rewinding something that small, or at least it was that way years ago when I was an electric motor mechanic in a shop here in town.

Grainger and places like that should be able to match something up.

 

[jmorris]

Unless it is a rare motor, it isn't worth rewinding something that small,

I bet it's not the windings, but he never answered the question of what was wrong with it, I asked in #4. On an imbalanced load like a tumbler, bearings and bushings take a beating.

 

[Walkalong]

Good point. I put new bearings in my Berrys not long ago. Bought an extra set when I ordered them.

Arch, pull the motor out and let us know if the windings look burnt or not, and see what the bearing feel like.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

If I can remember correctly, the motor is running very slowly so it's not able to move enough brass/media to clean the brass. I'm away right now so I can't check until I get back. That's also why I didn't run the numbers on the motor through some of the sites provided above. I won't be back until at least the end if the weekend.

 

[FROGO207]

As I posted in my first post the orange rubber shock mounts inside the motor that positioned the precision roller bearings that hold the spindle shaft were the problem with my CV500 motor. It caused the motor to slow down due to the rotor rubbing on the stator housing. The one on the weighted end was the problem. If you had access to a lathe then turning a bushing the same size would work as well but the design using the rubber bushing is to dampen the vibrations a bit. I used High Temp RTV silicone to replace the bushing and after curing that has worked so far. If it ever fails again I will make a hard plastic or metal bushing on the lathe and be done with it.

 

[jmorris]

If I can remember correctly, the motor is running very slowly

Your windings are not smoked then, I would go the machined bushing direction myself. If your problem is the same as FROGO's, take an OD, ID and height measurement and I'll turn a UHMW bushing for you.