Researching first suppressor...questions.

[orionengnr]

Okay, I finally got the Trust done (after about three years of vacillating/procrastinating). Now I am doing some more research.
--Primary use for the suppressor will be on an SBR .300 Blackout, running sub-sonic loads.
--I am a handloader and plan on rolling my own. Specifically, the Missouri Bullet powder coated cast lead 245 gr projectiles.
--I am told that I will need a can that is dis-assemble-able for cleaning the lead/powder residue (while if I were to use purely jacketed loads, this is a non-issue.)
--I believe that I want a TI can, due to weight/balance. I note that some have concerns about the durability of a TI can.
--I do not own/use full auto or belt fed, so that is a non-issue. I am not prone to "mag dumps" either.
--There are a lot of different cans out there, and I am having trouble finding more than a few owners of any particular can. Everyone seems to love the one they bought, although most seem to only own the one, and have no basis for comparison.

After reading many posts and watching a number of YT vids, I have more questions than answers.

1. If you have a TI can and shoot cast or powder coated lead, what brand/type and what is your experience?
2. If you own a TI (or stainless can) and shoot lead, and your can is non-dis-assemble-able, what is your experience?
3. Any other input on stainless versus TI?.
4. Are you aware of another TI (or stainless) can that is dis-assemble-able? So far I have only one--the Griffin Optimus.

Feel free to comment on any of the bulleted points, or the numbered questions.
The worst you can do is confuse me further

 

[yugorpk]

There is absolutely no reason to buy a user serviceable centerfire rifle silencer and a whole lot of good reasons not to buy one. Even if you shoot uncoated subsonic lead through it on a regular basis it just takes a couple of mags of full power supersonics to blow all that crap out. If you shoot FMJ or coated lead subs through it you wont have anything to worry about anyway. Using a takeapart can requires it to be heavier and bulkier and the likelyhood of it blowing apart is pretty high.

Ive got Titanium silencers and stainless silencers. The Titanium cans are a little lighter but really nothing to write home about.

My personal favorite can is the SIG 762Ti. Its really quiet, light enough, has minimal POI shift and the actual registered shell section is just a few inches long. The baffles are stacked and welded with no outer sleeve . If it blows apart they can rebuild the can without charging me $200 tax for a new shell.

I am in the process of unpacking after a move so I am painfully aware of what bullets I have a lot of and what I like and think works best. If cash is flowing well I buy the 208 Amax's or 225 Hordady BTHP's. If I just want to bulk up on bullets I buy coated lead Leatherheads. The make them in 240 flat point or now in 220 round nose and they load the same as 208 Amax's powder wise. Ive got a few thousand of each. That coating might as well be a FMJ. It stays on through the rifling trip and out the barrel, through word and barriers etc. Load up on H110, H4198 , IMR 4227 and AA1680. Some people claim you need 1680 for everything subsonic but thats a bunch of Hooey. Even H110 works well for subs and cycle SBR's just fine. Palmetto 200's also work fine. Ive even run a bunch of coated gas check 200's that I picked up off gunbroker for dirt cheap and they shoot as well as any coated bullet Ive got. I'm a big fan of the hi tech coating for silencer work. In any case you can get a quieter round with FMJ than you will out of cast lead. Takes a bit less powder to get the same effect and cycle the action with FMJ. Its enough of a difference for it to be noticeable especially in SBR's. Not so much in a long bolt gun.

http://leatherheadbullets.com/30-cal-220-grn-rn-blackout-2000-ct/

 

[pdsmith505]

My experience with coated lead resulted in my gas rings loading up with lead..

 

[yugorpk]

You need to bell the case mouth a smidge then seat the bullet and crimp just until the case neck is straight. A Lee FCD works great for this. If you seat the bullet into a straight neck or crimp into the bullet you'll get lead in your gas rings.

 

[pdsmith505]

See... I did all that. Even loaded one up then pulled the bullet to check for loss of coating. Could just be something with my barrel, but I was getting gas ring and suppressor leading BAD

 

[yugorpk]

I did at first when I started with coated lead but since dialing it all in I haven't fouled one in thousands of rounds shot. Who's bullets are you using?

 

[pdsmith505]

I realize that we've derailed the thread a little... but it's related to suppressing .300 blk, right?

Anywho, I was using the 240gr leatherheads. The bullet I pulled measured .310, so I wasn't swaging them.

Not in any terrible need right now since I found these (240gr SMK "seconds"): http://www.midwayusa.com/product/27...llow-point-boat-tail-box-of-100-bulk-packaged

They make a satisfying "pu-tuh, thunk" when shot into a tree through a can.

 

[orionengnr]

Thanks for the heads-up on the Midway bullets--I ordered 500.

 

[pdsmith505]

Here's some Sierra load data for the .300 whisper. It has loads for the 240gr SMK, while the .300 blk sierra data does not.

http://up.sur-la-toile.com/iFsk

Regardless, I've used less than the minimum H110 charge and cycled just fine in my 10.5" AR. Quickload gives me just under 1080 fps with 9.3gr

 

[yugorpk]

Ive run 9.5 grains of H110 with 225 Hornady's for quite some time. Great subsonic loads that cycle the 7.5 just fine.

 

[giggitygiggity]

If it were me, I'd get the Silencerco Hybrid. It'll work on everything from pistols to rifles.