Resizing Annealed brass

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Thomasss

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Does it help at all to resize before annealing? Haven't tried it yet, but was thinking, I'm always trimming after full length resizing. Am I just trimming off what I just annealed?

Any other recommendations in the annealing process?
 
I have found that annealing before resizing gives a more consistent shoulder location when sizing the case. Hard cases seem to give "spring back" of varying amounts. Annealed cases have a more consistent "spring back" and provide sized cases with more consistent shoulder location.

Annealed sized cases will give me a shoulder easily within +- .001 of where I want it. Unannealed sized cases will be +-.002. up to +-.003. Does it really make a difference? I doubt it. I just do because I like consistency, and I have plenty of time to do it.
 
Generally you annealing before resizing, and expect better dimensional repeatability, fewer splits, and lower sizing force for it. I can't think of a reason to anneal a cartridge case after sizing.

Edited, because words. . . Thanks @AJC1
 
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Does it help at all to resize before annealing?

It can, but I imagine from many methods I have seen, more damage is done that it being helpful.

Having said that, what is your goal?

What are you wanting it to help?

If you are forming cases you will do it before and after each step, in some cases.

If you are wanting to get ideal neck tension and heat the case to any amount of “glow” you would have been better off just shooting the brass until it split.
 
I have plenty of brass, but I do get some bounce back while reloading once in a while. I can feel neck tension on some cases when I full length resize. I'm always interested in tighter groups. And I check for run out and find some bullets/cases impossible to correct(might be M1 rejects). So I'm wonder how much help annealing might make in my reloading process. I do shoot some military target competition, but mostly I shoot for personal enjoyment and hunting. I'm a firm believer in "Aim small, Miss small."
 
I've never noticed an accuracy improvement from annealing. Unless things have changed pretty dramatically since my time, the benchrest competitors don't anneal, or at least not before each reloading, as they load at the range between relays.

For my money, annealing is useful for A) extending the life of brass, especially expensive or difficult-to-obtain brass, and B) necking down cases, especially those that require multiple steps. So I anneal things like .416 Rigby cases, and when forming .228 Ackley cases from 7x57 brass, but I no longer bother with .30-'06 and such.
 
It’s more for consistency of neck tension, shoulder bump/function to me, which means not having to readjust sizers or change bushings.

I never annealed for Benchrest competitions, nor did others, but I think some do now. Our brass fit the chamber so well it didn’t really need it, big difference between tight necked chambers with neck turned brass Vs standard chambers and un turned necks
 
I'm not chasing extreme accuracy I'm just shooting for the fun of it and the only rifle cartridge I reload is .223. I started annealing simply to extend the life of my brass and it seems to work as some of my cases have been shot a half dozen times or more and I hardly ever find a split neck.

At any rate I tumble then size, then anneal. After which I trim then tumble again to remove any lube. This has worked well for me so I see no reason to change. It also doesn't make someone who does it differently wrong.
 
With range brass in .223 with no annealing I get 8 to 12 firings before primer pockets get loose. Less than full loads would do better.

I now have an annealer, but I have no intention of annealing .223.
 
I anneal most rifle brass especially for neck sizing. (Particually 7mm RUM, 35 Rem, and 556) It seems to make it size a lot easier. I usually tumble then anneal then size.
 
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