Restoring Radom Vis 35 - DuraCoat/DuraFil

[UlicniTrkac]

Got this one in bad shape. Outside, you can see how it looks. Inside, metal is good and almost no corrosion. I have blasted it a while back, to clearly see what I'm up against

All small parts are good. Missing a firing pin (but thats on the way) and springs (also ordered).

I plan to use DuraFil to repair slide and frame outside pitting, and then DuraCoat to finish. I have ordered matte black for this project.

But I have no experience with it. I can read the instructions of course, but can I sand/file off excessive amounts of DuraFil? How to apply it properly, not to over do it lol.
And then, painting with DuraCoat - will it add + on dimensions? I just want to use it on frame and slide outside, not the small parts. Small parts will be blued. Can paint cause small parts not to fit in?
Should I blue slide and frame prior to applying DuraFil and DuraCoat afterwards (to protect the insides that wont be painted)?
Thanks in advance


I am sure I will have more questions lol.

 

[bodam]

You can lightly sand duracoat, but it will give it a slight sheen, if you use very smooth paper. I've done it to smooth out imperfections in the finish.

I've never used the filler though.

 

[Sam1911]

Yes, DuraCoat will build enough to cause pins and tightly-fitted parts to be too snug. Be careful with the frame and slide rails, grip safety mating surfaces and such.

You'll want to blast before coating to get the best adhesion, so I wouldn't blue it first unless you really protect the surfaces you don't want blasted somehow.

 

[UlicniTrkac]

thanks for the quick reply fellas.

rails coating shouldn't be a problem, since there is enough gap between them (on slide and frame).
Can I blue it after I put on DuraCoat ( I believe it can't be done, but just to ask)

Those parts that I dont want to be coated, I can protect with tape I believe?

 

[Sam1911]

I don't think you'd want to blue after DuraCoating parts of the frame, but I shouldn't say it CAN'T be done. Yes, tape works great for masking parts to be sprayed.

 

[Kp321]

If the pitting is too deep, it may take two or more passes with Durafil to get the desired smoothness. The instructions say to sand with 220 grit paper. Use a sanding block to insure flat surfaces. Carefully blast the pitted areas to get the rust out of the bottom of the pits for best adhesion of the Durafil.
Since the Durafil is sanded back to bare metal , there is no dimension change to worry about. On a wartime pistol like the VIS, I would not worry about the Duracoat buildup on the rails having any effect on operation. On tight pistols, I mask the rails but on looser ones, I just paint everything. If you want it, there is an SL Duracoat that is made for sliding surfaces. Self Lubricating, I think is the SL.
As far as the internals, lightly blast and Duracoat them or blue before Duracoat, not after.

 

[Sam1911]

Be very, very, very, very, VERY careful that you do not get any into the serial number, and don't let the final coating build too heavily there. Seriously bad mojo to do that.

 

[UlicniTrkac]

thanks for the input fellas, I'll post as I go further with the project

 

[HCP Gunsmithing]

I have used DuraCoat on several guns and have yet to have a problem with tolerances being closed up. Of course, now that I say this, the next gun will be hard to put together.....

This is common sense but you have to make sure your parts are clean, clean, clean before you paint. Also, it's better to make many light passes rather than fewer heavy ones. I found this out the hard way when one of my early projects had a shiny spot.

 

[bodam]

The only problem I've ever had with a 1911 and Duracoat was the safety lever. That seems like a tight area to go back together. The rails etc. went together nicely.

I airbrush Duracoat, so it goes on very thin, and all of the markings never get filled in. That being said, the filler will be crucial to a nice smooth surface.

 

[UlicniTrkac]

Now I wonder should I get some professional, like car painter, to do the painting with DuraCoat, just for that reason to get it thin enough - cause of skills.

When I try to assemble Vis like this all small parts go in quite tight, so I will definitely have to get internals and holes covered, so coat stays only outside.
Rails, they shouldn't be the problem, there is enough "rattling" space on them.

 

[UlicniTrkac]

well that firing pin wasnt for vis.

now I have to search more.
Maybe someone here can give me dimensions of it, so I can make one?
Thanks in advance

 

[UlicniTrkac]

first hand of DuraFil

 

[UlicniTrkac]

sanding

 

[UlicniTrkac]

second hand DuraFil

 

[UlicniTrkac]

Duracoated with matte black

 

[UlicniTrkac]

I have made a sanding mistake that I didnt notice prior to painting, and from what I understand, I cant do anything about it now (like just sanding that part and putting another layer or two of DuraCoat over it).

Next is the more trickier part, the slide. But that will take some time to finish. I'll update with pics

 

[UlicniTrkac]

just to update with pics.
I have made everything that was missing except the barrel myself (rear sight, grips, firing pin, springs, missing bolts including one for takedown latch). Only thing missing is decocker - I still havent made that small spring for it, but it will be done in a few days. I ll let you know how it shoots

 

[carbine85]

Sure looks a lot better than it did in the beginning.

 

[UlicniTrkac]

thanks

But I do have one problem with it - it fires full auto - hammer wont stay in cocked position unless i manually cock it and keep it pointed downwards. Sear seems to be ok, but sear spring, the first left "finger" of it has some marks on it, and it seems to be a bit shorter than those on pictures I find online.
Does anybody knows will 1911 sear spring be a direct fit in it?
Thanks in advance

Edit - it doesnt fit I have just measured it.