Rifle rebuilt, re-stocked, bedded, painted, and a range report to boot!

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mickeydim468

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This was a whim project because I was bored, but it worked!

I will try to keep this short. But you do get 50+ pictures to look at at the end. If you want to just skip my bantering, page down to the end and get your fix on my pics. I captioned each picture so you will still get the jest of it.

For the rest of you, here goes; I finally made up my mind to go ahead and order my new rifle stock for my Weatherby Vanguard synthetic which is chambered in .300 Win Mag. from Richard's Microfit. I debated whether to get the stock for my M1917 30-06 first or the .300WM stock. I decided on the .300WM stock first because they have it available with 99% drop in fit and the M1917 is only 96%. Since this will be my first inletting job, I went with the one that should be easier for my first try.

What does all of this have to do with the project at hand? After ordering the new stock, I got to looking at my M1917 closer, and ever since I got that rifle about a year ago, I have had an issue with a small crack at the right tip of the forearm. It got me to thinking... I will be getting that new stock soon, I wonder if I can make that Weatherby Vanguard synthetic stock work on my 30-06?

So I took apart both rifles and tried to set the 30-06 in the synthetic stock. It was not a very good fit, but I figured with a little whittling, duct tape and bailing wire I could make it work, so I got out the rotozip and went to town!

I got the stock on the M1917 and found that the holes for the tang screw didn't line up but the recoil screw was perfect. I drilled out the tang screw hole with an over-sized bit at the correct angle and took out the pillars that were previously installed in the cut down military stock it originally wore. I mixed up some epoxy and seated the pillars in through the epoxy and let it set up over night.

I didn't have access to any real gunsmithing products here in town, so I bought what the local Ace Hardware store had available. After deliberating over which one of about 10 options would be best I chose 2. One is a putty type of epoxy called PC-Metal and the other is a 2 ton liquid epoxy. The liquid epoxy helped me keep the putty epoxy stuck to the plastic stock until the putty epoxy cured. I ended up using heavy duty spray silicon as a release agent. I just sprayed it on and let it dry and then mixed up the liquid and coated the plastic with it and then mixed up the putty and smashed it where it needed to go. Then I inserted the action into the stock and tightened the action screws. I let it set about 10 minutes and then pulled out the action. I then scraped the excess putty off as it was pretty well set up by then, and then I let the stock sit overnight to finish drying.

I had to do this for a few days until I got the different parts of the action bedded the way I wanted. then I bedded the floor-plate bottom metal using the same process.

After all was done, I did a quick sanding job and then primered the whole rifle. I then used 3 different colors of paint and painted the rifle in a striped pattern. Then I took flat black paint, while using pine twigs with the leaves still attached as a stencil, I lightly coated the rifle to give it a foresty look. When I was done, I thought the rifle was too dark so I spattered some of the lighter colored paint over the whole rifle. It turned out ok, but I am not happy with the paint job. I also see where I should have taken more time in my sanding efforts too. I will strip off the paint and finish up the sanding in the near future, but for now, it is what it is.

I also decided I wanted to put a scope on it, and since I had already used the original scope that I bought for it on my .300WM, I decided to go out and get a new scope for it. I got the Nikon 3-9X40 ProStaff with the BDC reticle.

Now to the best part... Today I took it out to the range and shot at 100, 200, and 300 yards. This is the longest range I have found so I couldn't try any further.

I hand-load, so the ammo is a batch that has proved to shoot pretty well in the old stocked m1917 so I stuck with it. I was shooting 165Gr Speer SPBT with H4350 powder and Winchester LR primers in once or twice fired brass by Remington. I only neck size the brass so they are hot formed for the M1917 already.

At 100 yds, I was able to get a 3 shot group in less than 1/2 inch, and a 5 shot group in less than 3/4 inch. My 200 yard group was at 2 1/8 inch and my 300 yd group was at just under 4 1/2 inches.

For pictures of the old rifle start looking at pic #1. For pictures of the way it looks now plus the range report start looking at pic #22 and got to pic # 51.

Here is the link to the pics I promised.

Mikeys M1917 30-06 pics

I hope you enjoyed the story and I look forward to your comments... Good or bad, I just wanted to share! Heck, I was just amazed I could get it in that plastic stock at all. The center balance of the rifle is not in the back behind the trigger, like it was in the old stock, it is under the front of the floor-plate right near the recoil lug screw as it should be. It also weight, what seems like 2Lb, less than it used to.

I will tell you this, It shoots like a dream. I have the Timney trigger set to about 2lb and it is smooth as silk. Now, if only I could find a deer or elk during hunting season and not on someone's front lawn, I will be in business!

Mikey!
 
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Hey uncle Mike,

Thanks for looking and you comments.

You're the guy that took my screen name huh? I actually tried your screen name when I signed up for a membership to this site. I ended up trying a quite a few before it finally let me have this one.

Yes it is really shooting nicely. I couldn't be happier with those results. I just don't like how the paint turned out and the seams at the joints between epoxy and plastic. Epoxy to metal is very good though IMO.

Would you have believed a Weatherby stock could be transformed to work on an M1917?

I was clueless, so I did what everyone else who has no clue would do. I punted! LOL

Mikey!
 
I have a 1917 I bought for 150 bucks, it had been sporterized sometime in the 50's I put a cheap bushnel scope on it maybe 75 bucks. I took it to the range to sight it in and it shot very similar to your pictures, a SWAT team instructer had a couple rookies he was working with, but his attention was on the 17. He asked to shoot it, I wasn't going to say no. He shot a 100 yrd three shot group which was basically a three leaf clover. He just could not believe that a 200$ rifle and scope combo could shoot as well as his 5,000.00 issue weapon with big dollar optics. my groups were not as good as his, but that rifle flat out shoots!


scope002-1.jpg
 
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Hey MyTFAL,

That rifle of yours looks just like mine did before I changed out the stock. Yours is without the big ears mine has though. Do you have any close up pics of the milling job on your action you could show me? I think that is the only thing I will have left to do to it once I finish sanding and re-painting it.

I paid $165.00 for mine a little over a year ago at a gun show. Then I had to add the scope mount (The manufacturers name escapes me right now, but it will come to me at some point) and the original scope I put on it was a Center Point tactical reticle 4-16X40 from Wally world that I paid $79.00 for. It shot pretty good then too! It has had a trigger job, and now the stock and new Nikon scope. The real cool part about the scope is that I have not really practiced past 100 yards with any of my rifles. I only took 5 shots at the 200 yard target and the same for the 300 yard target. The groups to me are phenominal, and they nearly hit the bull at 200 and was only a tad high at 300 yards. I don't have a range scope to see where the shots were hitting and I could not make it out with the scope either, so I was shooting with blind faith that the scope would do its job properly. And it did!

That is why I am so excited about this whole thing.

Mikey!
 
Wow, I thought there would be more replies by now. 232 views and 3 replies. The other 4 were me.

I guess nobody is impressed that a 92 year old rifle can shoot 1/2 MOA with 3 shots and 3/4 MOA with 5 shots. Nobody else even has an opinion Good or bad about the work I did and the end result?

Gee, somehow I thought someone would come on here and tell me how I could have done a better job maybe offer some advise about how I could have gotten a better marriage between the plastic and the epoxy. But nothing... Everyone looked but didn't want to comment.

That's a bummer!

Oh well, thanks for looking anyway!

Mikey!

P.S. I really want to thank the three of you who did comment. That's more of an effort than everyone else.
 
well gee, guess I better coment.

I like the paint job, dont change it. 1/2 MOA is outstanding, and better than I can do.... And that is with any rifle, old or new. Good shooting, and good work.

LJH
 
Thanks LJH,

Well I think this rifle shoots better than I do. I bet you could shoot this rifle just as good as I do with a little practice. It sure is fun to shoot!

Mikey!
 
Well, I just joined the forum, so this is the first time I've read your report.

Those old 1917 Enfield actions are very strong, capable of handling large magnum calibers. Sounds like you did a good job of bedding the action as well, given the shot groups you were putting together. It doesn't surprise me that your old handload recipe still works well with the new stock, but it does seem to be a good un.

I'm a big fan of "oldies but goodies" when it comes to firearms. My most accurate rifle is a surplus Mauser K-98 action with a bull barrel chambered in .22-250 and synth stock. Paid $150 for it back in '93. So, I think it's pretty cool that you've put together a tack-driver for cheap.

As for the ease with which you were able to fit the Weatherby stock to your 1917 Enfield action, well, without looking closely at the two barreled actions, I'd suspect that they are both quite similar in appearance to the Mauser model 98, which has been the action design of choice for over 100 years now. If it ain't broke, why fix it? So, given this likely similarity due to a common influence, this might explain why the fitment was pretty easy for you.

I'm curious about your Richard's Microfit stock for your Weatherby. How well does it fit, and what is the level of finish? I ordered a stock from Richards MF years ago for my Remington 700BDL. Took them weeks before they finally shipped it, and it was anything but "microfit." Required quite a bit of inletting and a LOT of exterior work. In the end, it was worth it though, I guess, cuz the stock did turn out nice. I get compliments on that gun whenever I take it out to the range.
 
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Hey cooltouch. I just read the Wikipedia article today, about the M1917 Enfield action. Come to find out it was the first Mauser style actions to use the bolt as a "Back-up" Lug in case of terible disaster which would cause the other 2 lugs to fail. The article went on to say that all bolt action designs from there forward have used this in their design. So you may have a point that my action may be pretty close to the Weatherby because it is a Mauser style action, but more importantly because it also has this special feature of safety which made it the strongest action of it's time.

As for the Richard's MF stock... I have not received it yet. It has only been about 3 weeks since I placed the order. I have 3 to 5 weeks if they hit their promised delivery time frame of 6 to 8 weeks. I am planning on doing a step by step tutorial on the build with pictures and progress reports once I get it, so just keep checking this forum and keep an eye out for all of the details.

Thanks for replying.

Mikey!
 
So, does anyone else have any opinions or suggestions about my rifle? All comments are welcome. I know it isn't an AR platform and it isn't an M1 either, but it is the rifle that all modern bolt rifles are based on. Doesn't that mean anything?

I love this rifle. I just wish I could find another one to buy that has not been sporterized. I don't care who made it. Any of the three are fine. Does anyone know where I can find another US Rifle Cal .30 Model of 1917?
 
Hey, Mickey, I just ran across your post today. That is a nice looking rifle especially when It started out as one of the uglier bolt action battle rifles ever. I sporterized one back in the '70s. If I remember right I gave $39 for the thing at a pawn shop and it had a new Hi-Standard barrel. I put a lot of hours into it but it turned out to be a very accurate rifle. It would do slightly less than minute of angle with Remington Core Loct ammo then and still does today. Here are a couple of not so good pictures. Please excuse the background.

UteLakeTrip014.gif

My wife loaned it to her younger brother who never took care of anything for an elk hunt about 1980. He didn't take care of the rifle either. He used his horse and saddle as a rest to take a shot at an elk. After the run away you can see in this picture where the horse stomped the rifle. I left it like this to remind me not to ever loan him anything again. There are two small dents behind the bolt and a big gouge in front of it. The rifle was still zeroed after the beating it took.

UteLakeTrip013.gif
 
doubleh,

That there is a pretty nice looking rifle. You did good work on that!

I pretty much just used what I had available at the time. How did you like that front sight on my rifle. Interesting huh? LOL

It works great though!

Mikey!
 
We'', it's certainly different :D but, hey, if it works for you that's what you want. It should be very easy to pick up even in low light.

I'm past using iron sights. Old eyes, bifocals, and irons don't work for me. Gotta have a scope.
 
Well I am getting to where I am going to have to have a scope on it too! LOL

I wear glasses for driving and long distances, but the peep sight seems to improve the sight picture just enough to where I do not need the glasses out to about 100 yards, and maybe even farther. That is what this rifle is meant to be anyway. A shorter range brush gun.

It is short and relatively light. It only has a 20" barrel so it is fast handling too! The synthetic stock really improved the weight and balance of the rifle too. When I add my scope to it with the S&K mount, it really starts getting to be too heavy and unwieldy to be a brush gun. My 300 Win Mag and .243 Win will be for the longer shots at Elk and Deer respectively.

It is a tool for a specific job. But it can cross the lines to work for longer shots too. It is plenty accurate to use out to 300 yards, I just need more practice with it in its current configuration to ensure confidence in myself that I can actually take sort of shot.

Mikey!
 
I took it out to the range today and, man, I tell you what! my eyes are shot! I could barely see the target let alone tell what was printed on it. I shot it today on a hope and a prayer that I would even hit paper. I did hit paper with every shot, so at least I could do that, but my groups were 2 to 3 inches to the left and 4 to 6 inches high. The best 4 shot group I could get was all at the same height and from 2" left to 2" right. So about a 4" 4shot group. That was after I put my glasses on. I wanted to see both ways, and yes the glasses did make a big difference, but I diid prove to myself that if I had to take a shot without them, then I would most likely hit within 4 inches from POA. I am good with that for a brush/truck gun!

Anyway, I just wanted to let you all know how it did without the scope.

Mikey!
 
mickeydim468:

That is a very cook project. You did nice work. I looked through all of the picture too. It was very interesting. Stop by sometime, bring your rifle and we'll go shooting.

Geno
 
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