Rifle Reloading Questions
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kalielkslayer
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Sounds like you’re on a tight budget, or not ready to jump in totally.
But a case trimmer is a must in your situation. You can get a manual one for less than $100. And a caliper.
After that, you are good to go!
If you’re anywhere near NE California, I’ll donate a few 100 LRPs to get you started.
But a case trimmer is a must in your situation. You can get a manual one for less than $100. And a caliper.
After that, you are good to go!
If you’re anywhere near NE California, I’ll donate a few 100 LRPs to get you started.
In threads like this someone always asks about, or states that, neck sizing prolongs case life, but where cases generally fail is the primer pocket or the neck. If we full length size and make sure we are not moving the shoulder too far with each sizing there is no reason why cases can't last just as long. Case head hardness and pressure determine how long primer pockets last, it is what it is with the first, depending on the brass, but we control pressure. We can use a bushing style die, with or without a separate expander, to minimize the amount we work the necks. They also make carbide expander buttons for FL sizers, I use those in a couple of sizers. We can also anneal to increase case life, but excellent case life can be had without annealing as well.
So yes, I always recommend carefully set up full length sizing.
That said, the Lee collet sizer works well, until cases won't chamber, and the Lee "dead length" seater works very well, I actually have in in .30-06.
So yes, I always recommend carefully set up full length sizing.
That said, the Lee collet sizer works well, until cases won't chamber, and the Lee "dead length" seater works very well, I actually have in in .30-06.
I wouldn’t say the budget is too tight. I just bought the Lee Hand Press, 4-die set for 38/357, Little Dandy powder measure, four rotors and an adjustable rotor, scale, calipers, 500 38sp brass casings, 800 LSWC bullets, 500 LHBWC, 1000 Federal Small Pistol Primers and a lb of Bullseye. To me, that’s jumping in with both feet. It’s about prioritizing. I want to shoot the 30-06, but realistically, I haven’t shot it a 1000 times in 55 years, so I don’t want to spend a ton of money reloading for it if I’m not going to enjoy shooting it that much. I won’t know until I try some reduced loads. Right now, our Cabela’s has no 30-06 ammo, let alone reduced loads. So hand loading is the only option. I’ve got 80 rounds of 180gr hunting loads that I know I wouldn’t want to go out and shoot for fun. But that’s just me. LOL
Charlie98
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Fair enough.
A pound of H4895 will give you about 200 reduced loads, so maybe gauge it on that. 200 primers, 1# of powder, 250 bullets. Besides the dies, as was mentioned, you would need a trimmer and a set of calipers... and a standard O-frame press. Not a terribly huge investment... and, what do you know, you might actually really like shooting your rifle with lighter loads!
A pound of H4895 will give you about 200 reduced loads, so maybe gauge it on that. 200 primers, 1# of powder, 250 bullets. Besides the dies, as was mentioned, you would need a trimmer and a set of calipers... and a standard O-frame press. Not a terribly huge investment... and, what do you know, you might actually really like shooting your rifle with lighter loads!
That’s a great plan! And… what I’d like to do!!
I have tried neck sizing only & it doesn't work because of brass stretch. I noticed after about 2 or 3 firings the bolt wouldn't close like it did with new rounds. I found the shoulders needed to be bumped back so instead of trying to keep track of the number of firings on each piece of brass, I now just full length size all my brass.
CoalCrackerAl
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Why not use shotgun powders for reduced loads? I load all my play rifle ammo with the dot powders. Sometimes with 2400 and unique too.
Interesting! Would you be willing provide a source for these recipes?
nofendertom
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My Lyman Manual 45th edition lists---for cast bullets---Herco, Green Dot, 2400, Unique, Red Dot, 700x.
CoalCrackerAl
Member
Lymans cast #3 and 4 are excellent. They have more loads than their manuals for both jacketed and cast.
redcon1
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I learned to reload loading 30/06 and .45 acp with that Lee Handpress at the kitchen table. It did everything I needed it to do as far as sizing and seating. The Lee priming tool is great for priming and Lee also makes some affordable trimming options. 30/06 is nice because, as is often noted, it's quite versatile. You can load lightweight varminter style bullets that don't cause a lot of recoil discomfort or you can load 180+ grain high ballistic coefficient bullets that you will feel in your shoulder.
Reloadron
Contributing Member
Well next week I'll be 72 and like you my days of humping mountains deer hunting are done. Anymore I am comfortable with a .308 Winchester or smaller cartridge too. The larger cartridges rifles just remain in the safe. Hope you get into and enjoy loading the 30-06 down. Ron
A lot of good reading
I’ve got the 3rd Edition.
Bet your third looks better than my fourth.
rdnktrkr
Member
I like to load the 125gr and 130gr bullets for target and varmint shooting at 100-200yrds, very accurate and low recoil. I anneal, f/l size, and use the Lee trim die and power screwdriver to trim. I have had a few split necks but usually the primer pockets get loose so I mark them with a marker and crush them after that firing.
WeekendReloader
Member
For paper punching, why not get some Unique or Trail Boss powder and some Berry's plated bullets?
I load my 30-30 with these and it shoots like a 22LR. Fun for the whole family and no more sore shoulders.
edit: I have also used Win231 and Universal in the 30-30 with similar results.
I load my 30-30 with these and it shoots like a 22LR. Fun for the whole family and no more sore shoulders.
edit: I have also used Win231 and Universal in the 30-30 with similar results.
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I’d love to get some Trail Boss, but I can’t find any locally. Local gun shop has it on order. I will buy it as soon as I can.
I don’t see any 30.06 loads with Win231. I’d like that too, because it is available locally and would also work in my 38sp loads quite well.
I’ll have to check on Unique. But this brings up a big question: The Lyman 3rd edition lists loads using the Dots, and Unique, and other powders, with 151gr Lyman cast bullets (#311466, #2 Alloy).
I don’t cast bullets, even though, ironically, I have some unused Lyman handles, a melting pot, and a maxi ball mould. Maybe that is something I would consider down the road. But… how specific do I have to be? Will just about any commercially available lead bullet do, that’s close? For example, in this case, 150 gr bullet? Do I have to worry about what alloy they are? Do I need gas checks? All the loads in this manual have them.
I don’t see any 30.06 loads with Win231. I’d like that too, because it is available locally and would also work in my 38sp loads quite well.
I’ll have to check on Unique. But this brings up a big question: The Lyman 3rd edition lists loads using the Dots, and Unique, and other powders, with 151gr Lyman cast bullets (#311466, #2 Alloy).
I don’t cast bullets, even though, ironically, I have some unused Lyman handles, a melting pot, and a maxi ball mould. Maybe that is something I would consider down the road. But… how specific do I have to be? Will just about any commercially available lead bullet do, that’s close? For example, in this case, 150 gr bullet? Do I have to worry about what alloy they are? Do I need gas checks? All the loads in this manual have them.
GeoDudeFlorida
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The closer the better but, unless you have access to an exact bullet-case-primer-powder combination, you'll have to do at least some interpolating. Try to stay with the same weight, hardness and profile, at least. Remember that seating depth is the real measure and cartridge overall average length (tip-to-base) is just a convenient way of approximating seating depth. Also remember that the real point of measure is the ogive - the point on the bullet where the driving band ends and the slope of the profile begins - not the tip. Again, measuring from the tip of the bullet is very imprecise but it's also very convenient.
Yes, yes, and yes. Maybe.
Yes, you can typically find comparable data for just about any commercially available bullet. Some manufacturers tell you to cross-check similar profile bullet data while others give you specific references. That's where bullet choice comes in: do you want specific data or a reference to comparable data? Up to you.
Yes, most any 150gr. bullet with a similar profile and seating depth will have good STARTING POINT data for you to work with. Never jump to MAX or even median loading data. Always start low and work up.
Yes, alloy matters a great deal but, more than that, the composition of the alloy's hardening components is more important than the actual "Brinell Hardness Number;" the percentages of lead to tin and/or antimony can determine how well an alloy performs in a rifle barrel more than just how "hard" it was when cast. Look for balanced alloys - equal-ish proportions of tin-antimony-lead - and castings made for their application - wax lubed bullets with lube grooves, for example. What you're looking for is an alloy hard enough not to skate when pushed through the rifling which is soft enough not to shatter due to rotational inertial forces on leaving the barrel.
Maybe you "need" a gas check to prevent gas cutting and maybe you don't. Some of the new plastic coatings (Hi-Tek) replace lubes completely and lend some resistance to skating to their cores while others are just wax by another name (let's all recall waxes are polymers). The purpose of a gas check is to prevent hot gases from getting past the bullet's base into the gap between the driving band and the bore/grooves. If the bullet/mold manufacturer recommends a gas check, it's probably not a bad idea to use one; if not, then it's probably not crucial. Experiment and note your results.
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So who carries cast bullets that includes that data? I bought bullets for 38sp from Rimrock Bullets in MT, but I’m using data from the Lee reloading manual, and I’m shooting them in a 357 mag revolver, so I’m guessing I have some wiggle room.
Rimrock did not specify the make-up of their bullets. They carry 155 gr gas checked bullets, but I’m guessing there are lots of others in this market. This is the reason I’m more leery about shooting lead. Lots of variables. I don’t want to make any big mistakes.
In the 30.06, I’m more concerned with leading I would guess.
Rimrock did not specify the make-up of their bullets. They carry 155 gr gas checked bullets, but I’m guessing there are lots of others in this market. This is the reason I’m more leery about shooting lead. Lots of variables. I don’t want to make any big mistakes.
In the 30.06, I’m more concerned with leading I would guess.
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Seedy Character
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Get powder coated bullets. Leading is not a problem, up to 2600 fps
1 load 16 gr Trail Boss with 120 gr powder coated bullet @ 2500
Simulates a mid range .25-06, with recoil of a .223. Good plinker and deer load, too.
1 load 16 gr Trail Boss with 120 gr powder coated bullet @ 2500
Simulates a mid range .25-06, with recoil of a .223. Good plinker and deer load, too.
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