Rifle rest question.

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mcmurry

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Ok, I have a Marlin 336. I try to shoot it and make sure the scope is right before every deer season. But, the problem I have is this; after I line everything up and shoot, I have to remove the gun from the rest to work the lever. This moves the point of impact no matter how much I try to put the gun back in the same position. Is there a vice or rest that has enough room under it to work the lever on a Marlin or Winchester lever rifle and not remove it, and move the point of impact? Thanks.
 
there are plenty designed to clear an AR-15 30 round mag, should give you enough room. If you are working the lever you are going to have to re aim regardless. Even my bolt guns need to be repositioned after I fire unless you are talking about the vise type rests that clamp your gun in. If you are checking POI once a season sand bags should be all you need.
 
Try using an adjustable pistol rest under the forearm, and a tall rear benchrest bag by the heel of the stock. I used a drywall screw in the leg of the pistol rest to anchor directly into the wood bench top, to provide some stability. This has worked well for a couple of old Winchesters and a friend's Marlin Guide Gun.
 
You're going to have to rebuild position a bit and get your zero after each shot with any gun. The only negative to a lever action or other design that has to be lifted off the rest to reload is time consumption.
 
Is there a vice or rest that has enough room under it to work the lever on a Marlin or Winchester lever rifle and not remove it, and move the point of impact? Thanks

No there is not. And why are you trying to sight it in on a benchrest? You will never use a benchrest to hunt with it.

Jim

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Jim, I like to sight-in on a bench because it removes most of ME as a variable when adjusting the scope and working up various loads.

It in no way shape or form means no off hand practice, it just means that you have eliminated some of the errors that will result from sending 20, 30, 50 or more rounds of 30/30down range off hand.

OP... I use a lead sled with a curved arm, it allows for my AR/AK and levers to work in the sled....

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There is no problem getting the rifle zeroed on a bench. This eleminates human error and is the only way to know if your scope is zeroed. But you what you are asking for is not practial or even wanted. Fire a shot, remove your rifle from the rest to open the action,load another round and fire. Repeat as necessary.

With a better than average rifle your shots will still be 1/2" or more apart even with a skilled shooter, and good ammo. Many levers are only capable of a 2-3" group at 100 yards at best. You don't say how much your POI changes, but it may well be perfectly acceptable for your rifle. It takes premium loads, a good shot and a pretty good rifle to keep 3-5 shots in a 1" or smaller group. Very few Marlin levers will do this.
 
A common problem with Marlins...which can lead to shots being off by several inches in long barrels such as the 45-70 "Cowboy" (26" barrel).

Easiest option is to "rest" the rifle on the front of the receiver instead of the fore arm...keeping the weight off the barrel.

Those lever guns are often incredibly accurate, but you have to know their "quirks"...and pressure on the barrel from a rest is one of those quirks.


100 yards, peep sights, 45-70, barely over MOA....vicious kicking load (405 grain bullet at 1,900 fps)...Marlins WILL shoot, but like I said...there are little things you need to know to get the most out of them, such as how to hold them and loose fitting tenons, fore arms, end caps...those latter ones being a free floated lever action of sorts.

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