Shinbone
Member
I dripped a little bore cleaner on a wood rifle stock and it removed a bit of the surface finish. Is there a way I can restore the finish? I can send a picture if that would help.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Rifle stock spot refinish question
- Thread starter Shinbone
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ApacheCoTodd
member
Yeah - I should think a photo would help considerably.
Form directly above the accident and also one at an angle.
Todd.
It depends upon what finish is on the stock. Some finishes can be spot-repaired without being visible afterwards, some can't without being somewhat visible. If you read/search this forum you can find everything you'll need to know. Look for posts by a member named Normef. https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=275
what is the finish? bore cleaner should have little/no effect on clear coat unless maybe it sits on it for a long time. must be a linseed oil or something, no? some marks in my opinion are just character marks and depending on how bad it is, might just leave it - sometimes less is more.
Oil finishes (tung or linseed based usually with some drying or staining added) can be fixed fairly easily by sanding and then reapplying the finish. The following link deals with scratches but the principle is the same in that you remove the damaged finish and replace it with a new blended finish. https://www.lin-speed.com/tag/gun-stock-scratches/ Shellac is fairly easy to fix with denatured alcohol and some fresh shellac. https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/repairing-a-damaged-shellac-finish-3536500 Some folks use a shellac stick with a bit of heat to melt it as a fix. https://www.shellac.net/burninsupplies.html Polyurethane is a bit of a pain primarily in trying to blend the old and new poly finishes. It is a bit fiddly but well within anyone's ability with a bit of patience. https://home.howstuffworks.com/home...s/how-to-repair-wooden-furniture-surfaces.htm Varnish and lacquer finishes can be a pain to match as it helps to know what the original finish was. Use a denatured alcohol test as it will dissolve shellac finishes immediately and it takes time to affect a varnish/lacquer. Here are some tips on minor fixes on such surfaces. http://furniturerenewal.com/restore/finishes/lacquervarnish.html
If stain along with the oil, shellac, or polyurethane is involved, then you have to figure out the match for the stain. Test for color match in places on the stock that are not seen (barrel channel, under sling mounts, etc.). Some finishes like BLO darken with age and can be a bit difficult to match. In other cases, stain pens or other off the shelf stains almost match perfectly off the shelf. @GunnyUSMC is a whiz at blending and fixing finishes so maybe he will have some ways that are faster and better than my trial and error approach. For myself, I generally use the same procedures that I would with furniture adjusted for the wood type and finish (and any need to mask a repair). He is a true artist and his pictures of stock repair speak for themselves which you can find via a post search.
If stain along with the oil, shellac, or polyurethane is involved, then you have to figure out the match for the stain. Test for color match in places on the stock that are not seen (barrel channel, under sling mounts, etc.). Some finishes like BLO darken with age and can be a bit difficult to match. In other cases, stain pens or other off the shelf stains almost match perfectly off the shelf. @GunnyUSMC is a whiz at blending and fixing finishes so maybe he will have some ways that are faster and better than my trial and error approach. For myself, I generally use the same procedures that I would with furniture adjusted for the wood type and finish (and any need to mask a repair). He is a true artist and his pictures of stock repair speak for themselves which you can find via a post search.
GunnyUSMC
Member
Things that will help.
The type of finish.
Pics of the damaged area.
The type of gun. (This helps with surplus guns)
The type of wood, if known. Knowing the type of wood is a big factor because, different types of wood react differently with stains and finishes.
The type of finish.
Pics of the damaged area.
The type of gun. (This helps with surplus guns)
The type of wood, if known. Knowing the type of wood is a big factor because, different types of wood react differently with stains and finishes.
Shinbone
Member
Here's the best I could do. I inherited the rifle from my uncle many years ago. It has a bull barrel and weighs about 19 lbs. It's chambered for 6.5x57. Single shot, mauser bolt action. I wish I knew the history and what he intended to do with it, but unfortunately I don't have any knowledge of any of that. I can try another picture from another angle if it would help.
ApacheCoTodd
member
Doesn't look like anything I'd seriously sweat. Could make things worse by trying too hard. Me - in my shop... I'd just rub at it with some G-96 and take a close look-see after. It's a good neutral wood oiler and a fine unifier that won't do anything you have to back out of if you don't like the result.
Todd.
Shinbone
Member
I'll give it a try. Which product? Gun oil or gun treatment?
ApacheCoTodd
member
I use the oil. I use so much that I buy the gallon jugs and re-dispense in spray and squirt bottles. Oil & wood, works great.
Should you not be satisfied, my next step is to select the appropriate https://www.howardproducts.com/product/restor-a-finish/ . I use a lot of restor-a-finish in touch ups and full re-do's.
In any case, I'd just rub the whole stock down with G96 first. You'll almost certainly be happy and learn to love the product from then on.
I have seveal guns that I have not properly *cleaned* in years and use nothing but G96 on them. No nasty smell or awful clean-up too.
Todd.
saiga308
Member
tru oil should do it light coats
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BW-Casey-T...820823&hash=item522760e917:g:kd0AAOSwxR1d9ef1
GunnyUSMC
Member
I agree. If applying wax doesn’t fix it the Tru-oil, like saiga308 said. Should do the trick.
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