Romak-3 psl

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what flea said

My buddy's PSL does 'cloveleaf' at 100yds; he has the commie mount and fixed-pwr scope...
 
Yep. Flea has it. Either the scope base is not compatible with the PSL rail, or it is just not clamped tightly enough.

After the scope is slid onto the base, you should start to close the lever, and it should stop just passed halfway closed, and require effort to go the rest of the way closed.
 
Greetings,

No guys... You dont' have it.

I use a SVD mount on the PSL and an AK mount on the AK. The AK mount fits the SVD except the stop pin is in the front while the PSL is in the back. Under recoil, the AK mount will move on the rail. With no recoil, it will stay at the same place like a PSL mount. I just mounted the AK rail with the scope to see if there will have a tremor with the hammer hitting the back of the bolt.

I have been there when the seller sold me the wrong mount on the PSL and the mount was moving....

Thank you
 
I use a factory modified SVD mount with my PK-A red dot on one of my AKs. It works fine. It just places it farther forward, which I like for that particular optic.

An AK mount will fit an SVD rail even better and without any modifications. They just place the scope further back.

All of these scopes have tension adjustments to allow proper fit to a specific rifle.

You can also swap just the base itself on the mounts (held on by 4 screws) and use the same scope on either type of rail. I've done that with a 6x PSOP I have. I just bought an extra base from Kalinka.

So Kestak, just to get it clear, on the scopes that you are having trouble with, are you using an SVD base when you have the problems?

Do you still have the original PSO 4x scope?
 
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kestak said:
Greetings,

No guys... You dont' have it.

I use a SVD mount on the PSL and an AK mount on the AK. The AK mount fits the SVD except the stop pin is in the front while the PSL is in the back. Under recoil, the AK mount will move on the rail. With no recoil, it will stay at the same place like a PSL mount. I just mounted the AK rail with the scope to see if there will have a tremor with the hammer hitting the back of the bolt.

I have been there when the seller sold me the wrong mount on the PSL and the mount was moving....

Thank you
Click to expand...

I think you may misunderstand my advice.

The AK rail and the SVD rail are different rails. Although the measurements are close, they are NOT the same rail. You may be able to get an AK style clamp to fit an SVD rail and vice-versa by adjusting the lock nut on the clamp itself, but the mount will NOT hold under recoil. The force-moment of recoil energy won't move a properly adjusted SVD mount, but it WILL move an adjusted AK mount on an SVD rail; the opposite holds true as well.

Your only other possible problem is a worn scope rail. At least where I'm sitting.

Good luck.:)
 
Greetings,

I did a few shooting sessions with the POS with no handguard and with handguards, barrel cold, barrel so hot that I could not touch it comfortably. I did the old sharpshooter trick of fouling the barrel, I tried many different ammo.

Conclusion:
1 - Removing the handguard does not help.
2 - Yugo has the best group: 3 within 2" and 2 flyers
3 - Zcech silver tips is the second best grouping: a nice circle all around the target: 6 moa.
4 - I did a few reloads and none group well.
5 - Everything is right and tight optic wise.
6 - At 100 yards all ammo tested was within a 8x8.

Question #1 to myself: I wonder if at 200 yards the grouping will open really or it will be closely within the 8x8 still....:banghead:

Question #2 to myself: I wonder if I should sell it with the close to 4000 rounds I have....:cuss:

Thank you
 
I also use a side rail mount - it appears to have originally been designed for the AK, but it's on there very snug (had to use a rubber mallet to get it in place) and it's clamped down and not going to move at all.
 
I don't know bro, I'd say go with the commie mount and scope intended for the weapon. My buddy did and still needed to do a little QA to make sure the mount did not impinge on the scope unnecessarily (a little grinding to one protrusion and it was on like donkey kong...). Oh yeah, that and a standard AK recoil buffer... His, however, now shoots MOA with Brown Bear.
 
You may be able to get an AK style clamp to fit an SVD rail and vice-versa by adjusting the lock nut on the clamp itself, but the mount will NOT hold under recoil. The force-moment of recoil energy won't move a properly adjusted SVD mount, but it WILL move an adjusted AK mount on an SVD rail; the opposite holds true as well.
Click to expand...
That has not been my experience. In both cases (using a Romanian PSL and SAR1), the mounts fit the rails very tightly, even before locking them down. Both mounts slide on from the rear and hit a stop. Once all the way on, scope can only slide towards the rear and won't even do that unless the latch is unlocked.

Recoil will push the rifle back, trying to move the scope forward on the rail (the scope will actually try to stay still as the rifle moves to the rear). Since the scope mounts rest against a stop, they can not move on the rail under recoil.
 
Greetings,

Finally, I think we found the problem!

A friend of mine shot the PSL with iron sights and he is very good with iron sights. He got groups under 3" ALL THE TIME! When he used the scope, it was all over the place.:what:

Soooooo, I bought a mount from Kalinka optics with a picatinny on top of it. I mounted a Nikon Buckmaster and I assumed it would be great!

I was wrong! The mount is cast alluminium with a picatinny in alluminium and my rings are alluminium. My friend showed me how much "swing" my scope has... Enough to throw the scope out of alignment each time I shoot.

He think by removing the picatinny rail and screwing directly on the mount a set of high quality steel ring, I will get rid of my problem...If it doesn't resolve the issue, the solution is to get a REAL steel mount. Stay tuned for the next episode.

Thank you
 
Greetings,

Rock solid on the rail. It is a swing in the material itself with the mount, rings and picatinny. I use the high mount. Maybe you have the low mount and it is sturdier...

Thank you
 
Greetings,

Eureka!!!!

My friend gunsmith was darn right(and some of you too). Yesterday we put the final touch to my predicament and killed it!!! :neener::neener:

He took the aluminum mount from Kalinka Optic, removed the picatinny rail on the top, drilled and tapped it, picked up 2 steel rings, drill and tapped them, and fixed them on the mount.

Previously, I had "expensive" "high quality" aluminum low profile rings. All that aluminum was making the scope "assembly" move each time I was firing and it was not resetting at the same place.

Now, I have a group of 1 1/2 MOA at 100 yards with Czech Ammo. I did not try to find out which ammo works the best for me.

In his young years, he was a high level competitor in sniping rifle matches (I guess it comes from his Recon Marines days) and he told me two things about that rifle:
1 - You can hear that safety click at 500 yards away...:what:
2 - Switch from the steel cases ammo to any brass ammo because of the lubricity. When the bullet leaves the steel case, it has to force its way out. With brass it "slides" out. At longer ranges, it will make a HUGE difference.

Thank you
P.S.: oh! I had to shim my scope under the scope in the rear ring and I shimmed the mount at the rear where the 2 brass screws are. And he said I did it right. :) Coming from him it is a very nice compliment. Sorry, I had to brag on that. I am getting better and better and better thanks to all of you and my incredible superior intellect....:D:D
 
Greetings,

It was the WHOLE thing that was swinging. All the Aluminum assembly was stretching and coming back (like a rubber) but it was not coming back the same each time.

We found that out when we were applying pressure diagonally on the scope assembly, it was "swinging".

By removing the picatinny rail and the rings, we ended up with only the main assembly (the one attaching on the side rail) beeing in aluminum. The steel rings were screwed + red lock tite on the screws directly on the main assembly.

Steel is many times less "swingy" than aluminum.

The first time he told me about that I doubted. But the proof is in the pudding. It worked.

Thank you
 
This is great information. I appreciate your postings.

=====

Updated edit - replace thumb levers with 6mm - 1 x25 hex screws last night based upon another posting. Used blue loctite on screw. Am able to screw down tighter and not have to mess with the thumb lever which makes it harder to mount. In other words... I can tighten it down more.

Will do live fire testing to see if it moves any today, tonite or this weekend.

=====

My problem has been that my scope mount is literally moving on the rail.

This link is to another board where he solved the moving problem. I can not solve like that. Will have to jb weld or something. http://forums.gunboards.com/showthr...-zero-problem-...-solved&highlight=scope+move

=====

Here is my problem with photos. Have been able to reproduce since I had my psl. I diagnosed problem because my iron sight groupings were almost as good as my scope groupings even at long range. http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=4&f=79&t=131865&page=1&#1081159

=====

If I still have problem after jb cold weld will go to your solution.

Again, I appreciate your work and all the guys on here.
 
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I've got a PSL, and it is super fun (and afforable) to shoot. It's not a bench rest rifle like my M1A is, but I can hit a man-sized target at about any distance with it. That is what they are made for. I'm not gonna score a head shot repeatedly with it, but it will F#@K S#!T up at long range. This has been proven in Iraq and Afghanistan where almost every sniper we encountered was using some sort of a PSL type weapon (NOT Dragunovs or bolt guns)
If you buy one, just have fun with it. Don't try to trick it out and expect to get Olympic results.
23696_1318036835898_1380073481_30903226_2827959_n.jpg
 
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