Rossi 92 357 mag trouble?

[joneb]

I tried to shoot this today but it wouldn't shoot, no primer strike even after repeated attempts. I suspect the firing pin broke, how should I proceed?
I am some what handy.

 

[rcmodel]

'You better be handy, if you aren't handsome.'
(Sort of a quote from the Red Green Show)

Now getting down too it.

You have to have a good set of gunsmith screwdrivers.

Then get the bolt out, to get the FP out.

Easy Peasy!

http://www.leverguns.com/articles/taylor/field_strip.htm

rc

 

[joneb]

'You better be handy,

Geese o'pete I had no idea what kinda mouse trap this is
I came across this, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=822...outube.com/watch?v=822cHxAIgQE&has_verified=1
I really enjoy these Brits

 

[rcmodel]

Your YouTube link won't let me look at it because it thinks I am too young to view such things at 71 years old.

Dang!

rc

 

[joneb]

Sorry rc,
I will take a pic of the bolt it has two threw pins I suspect one is for the firing pin and the other is for the extractor?

 

[joneb]

Here's a pic of the bolt I hoping that punching one or two of these pins will allow me to remove the firing pin?

 

[Speedo66]

This video is pretty good for taking a Rossi 92 apart and putting it back together. While you're there, it also shows you how to smooth the action and replace springs if you desire.

https://video.search.yahoo.com/vide...a&sigb=1345dcrcq&hspart=mozilla&hsimp=yhs-001

 

[joneb]

Well the firing pin went kaputt Now what? do I need to contact Rossi or is there another source for this part?
does anyone know what the over all length of the firing pin should be? I'm tempted to fix this one.
And yes rc you were right about needing to take the bolt out

 

[joneb]

I'm feeling pretty good about the fix, I only have one puncher wound from a center punch Normally things would be much worse.
My plan is insert a .08" pin into the old firing pin, it maybe drill rod stock that I will temper. Just got to figure out how to make it stay there.
If anyone can give the OAL of the firing pin or the distance the pin should protrude from the breech face that would be helpful.

 

[joneb]

It appears that the repair has worked, I started out with 38 spl and worked up to a 357mag load of 158gr jacketed with 13.5gr of AA#9 all shot fine.
I suspect a made the pin to long, I will take .010" off, I think if the pin is long it will likely break again.

The shell on the left was fired with the original pin the shell on the right was fired with the fix.
One tricky part of this repair was getting the hole drilled dead center. I'll see if the repair holds up. I came across others that have suffered this fate in my internet browsing on the subject, perhaps these were not tempered properly?

 

[rcmodel]

They generally break on real 92's from dry-firing / snapping them empty.

But they generally break in the thin section in the middle.

How did you attach the new tip in the FP body???

rc

 

[joneb]

How did you attach the new tip in the FP body???

Friction and a punch, I wanted the ability to remove it if needed. I had to guess on the length and diameter as the broken piece was never found.

 

[rcmodel]

You probably should silver-solder it in place.

Otherwise it will eventually get loose from primer impact and wear.

And that can lead to a Series of Unfortunate Events if it creeps forward, get longer, and slam-fires a round before the bolt is locked.

rc

 

[joneb]

Thanks rc, after driving it in and pin punching the flat on the firing pin body I was unable to get it out again, with out possibly ruining the pin. It's not a hard thing to remake, I will keep a eye on it.

 

[g.willikers]

Nice job.
And you're hardly bleeding at all.

 

[joneb]

Thanks g.willikers,
I hope it will hold up long enough to find a replacement.
I still need to shorten the pin and try to get some silver solder in there as rc suggested.

 

[joneb]

Well I shortened the pin by .010 and it still may be to long?

Here is a pic of the pin in the bolt, I forgot to measure the protrusion.

The pin material I used was a .091 allen wrench that I annealed, turned, re-hardened and then tempered. I had to anneal the forward part of the firing pin body to allow for drilling, I did not re-harden that.
By the time I am done with this I will be a expert at tearing down a Rossi 92

 

[rcmodel]

Yes, it's still way too long.

FP protrusion should be two frog hairs longer then the radius of the tip.

Model 53 Winchester (92 action) made in 1934.



Sorry for the poor picture, that's all I got with only two hands in the dark!

And I can't measure it without taking the bolt out.
(Ain't got time for that tonight !)

rc

 

[joneb]

Thanks rc,
I guess I got some more widdlin to do. My thinking was better to long than to short. I've been flying mostly in the dark, but your "Easy Peasy!" comment came in handy along with that YouTube video you were not allowed to see.

 

[BCRider]

It IS better too long than too short since it's always easier to remove metal than to put it back on.

Just take note that silver soldering the pin in place will result in the pin becoming annealed to it's soft state. Since it's already a snug tap in sort of fit I'd suggest a good degreasing and one of the really good stud and bearing mount adhesives from Loctite. If it's good enough to hold barrel liners in instead of solder it should be good enough for this use.

 

[joneb]

Thanks BCRider,
I took another .02" off and the pin looks about right, I fired a primed only case and it looks good to go.
When I tempered the pin I heated at the part that inserts into firing pin body, I left the part exposed a straw color and quenched it. When I soldered the pin it should have finished the temper.
The bore in the FP body is .082", the pin that I made is .0815" with a bulge at the middle of the inserted portion at .082+" this gave me a little wiggle and a place for the solder to go.
I tested the tip of the pin and my file does not grab.

 

[rcmodel]

Just take note that silver soldering the pin in place will result in the pin becoming annealed

Only if you use hi-temp silver solder that melts at 1,200 degrees.

Low-Temp silver-solder melts at about 400-450, and will not anneal a hardened firing pin tip.

Guess I should have been more specific?

rc

 

[joneb]

I used low temp which is about right for tempering.

 

[joneb]

I've ran about 100 rounds through the Rossi since the last pin shortening and all seems well. I last took off .023" it still may be a bit long but I will run it awhile and see how it goes.

Thanks for the help.
jb
I almost forgot