rossi m92

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greyling22

greyling22

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I've got an old rossi/interarms m92 in 357, and the throw is ok up until the last couple inches closing the action. the part where the locking lugs slide up behind the bolt and lock everything into place. That part is very stiff and ruins an otherwise decent gun. I hear all about how the 92 action is so slick, but this one is not so.

I was reading here http://marauder.homestead.com/files/Rossitune.htm about how it is probably the ejector spring that is causing the problems. Does anybody have any experience with a 92 action job? is the link correct that the ejector spring could be causing the issues? is the steves spring linked on the marauder page any good? is there another solution?

I'm pretty good working on marlins's but I'm new to the 92 action.
 
The springs are good. I've put them in 2 Rossi's and getting ready to do a third. If the stiffness feels like spring pressure, the ejector spring is probably the problem. If it feels like something is rubbing, check the roll pins that go through the side of the bolt. If they have worked their way out, they'll rub in the grooves the bolt runs in.

Steve Young, aka. Nate Kiowa Jones, has the website stevesgunz.com. He has those springs. I would also encourage you to get his DVD. It shows exactly how to dis-assemble and re-assemble that Rossi. And he shows you how to further slick up the action.
 
I picked up a NIB Rossi M92 this week specifically so I could try a DIY action job. Figured I'd work on a rifle that I didn't really care too much if I screwed up. I am totally disappointed ....after a tear down, cleaning and good lube, this thing is already incredibly slick right out of the box!

Haven't shot it yet, but the action feels about as smooth as my 1969 Marlin 39.
 
I replaced the ejector spring, ground some others, and installed a 19 lb. Ruger Vaquero mainspring.
 
well, I took it all apart, and got it back together, and boy do I miss a marlin action. But anyway, I turned down the ejector spring some. it's lighter, but still really stiff on the last little bit when closing the action. like a 2 stage action. I guess maybe the steve's gunz spring is in order.
 
yes indeed. especially the part where I partially crossthreaded the left cartridge guide screw and it took most of an episode of fringe to get it right again. I actually found the springs to be pretty trouble free, it was the pin that holds the ejector in that was the big pain. I still wish I had been able to eliminate the 2 stage bolt closing. maybe I'll call stevesgunz.
 
Not meaning to hi-jack your thread: With everything put together in the action, get a small bottle of Gun Butter, the needle tip will allow you to put a fraction amount into the areas of the extractor, and other areas the firing pin block rides on, then work your action slowly a few times, and see if this doesn't help it. I have an older, 1935 Beretta .32 auto, after putting new springs in it, and some GB, this little auto's slide and other parts, really flies now. Just a suggestion.:rolleyes:
 
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well, I took another crack at it tonight. replaced the finger lever plunger spring with one from a clicky ball point pin, turned down the ejector spring a little more and took a half coil off, and polished some rough spots. you wouldn't believe how smooth this thing has become. it's almost as nice as my marlins. the only problem is that I'm having feeding problems with 38's. 357's seem to cycle fine, but the 38's seem to jump up too high in the action and require a half close, then a full close to well, close the action. you think maybe I took too much ejector spring off?
 
I'm thinking that you shortened the ejector spring, but not lightened it. It may be that you need just a lighter one.
 
well I certainly lightened it. I turned it down on the belt sander to maybe 60% the original thickness of the wire, but I shortened it as well by a coil. maybe that was a mistake. I could always head to the hardware store. or buy the stevesgunz spring. or just run 357's.
 
I've had a Ruger Blackhawk .357 since 1969 and the only 38's that have been shot through it were a box of 50 that were given to me. I reload and just load the 357's down if I want light loads. I just don't want to put up with that chamber ring that 38's create in a 357 chamber.

Steve is responsive to email so you may want to send him a queston on this. He hangs out at leverguns.com so you could post over there and maybe get some answers.
 
so a trip to ace hardware and a 70 cent hillman #2 spring chopped to 2/3 it's original length later and the gun is cycling great. It really hates 38's and the occasional 357, but by and large it's working fine. certainly an improvement. even slicker than my marlin now. I talked to the previous owner of the gun, and he said 38's have never worked in it very well. I'm guessing it's an issue of the cartridge guides or something. Anybody got the dvd they want to loan me?
 
I have the DVD on the way, well, at least I ordered and paid for it!

My NIB Rossi is feeding .38 SWC with ease. Maybe I got lucky? I had an older one a year or so ago that hated .38's.

Softball .38's feel like shooting a .22. 3.5grains of W231 with a 158gr LSWC group exceedingly well at 25 yards...like 3 rounds cloverleaf group.
 
well if he's got any great tips on how to improve feeding of 38's that are easily summarized, let me know please. this is an old gun. I hear the new ones are much much better.
 
I have a Rossi 92 in .44 Magnum. The action cycles pretty good, but the rear sight adjustment sucks. I have the rear sight all the way up and I'm still about 10" high at 50 yards. Any ideas?
 
file down the front sight. CAREFULLY

but 10" at 50 yds is a whole lot. are you sure your ammo is good? reloads? I had some 44 mags that I was pushing too fast for the softness of the lead and stripping out the bullet in the barrel. accuracy was a joke.
 
no you're not missing anything chas. I had a long day yesterday and wan't thinking straight at the end. You lower your rear sight to lower your shot grouping. for some reason I thought he wanted to go higher. probably because he said he had maxed his rear elevation out, I got the impression he wanted to go higher. my bad.

Joseph, do not file your front sight down. lower your rear sight. You move the rear sight in the direction you want the point of impact to go.
 
well if he's got any great tips on how to improve feeding of 38's that are easily summarized, let me know please. this is an old gun. I hear the new ones are much much better.
Click to expand...

I don't have the video yet, but am remembering what I did to fix .38 loading in my old Rossi. I had to shim the cartridge guides so there was barely clearance laterally for the cartridge, in the neighborhood of 5/1,000" . I just used some brass shim stock from the hardware store cut to fit.

Also, load your .38's with a little longer OAL than normal.
 
I was shooting both factory and reloads, but it didn't seem to make any difference where the bullets hit the target. I started out with the rear sight low and slowly increased the height, which seemed to improve the hits, but not much. I should mention that I was using a Caldwell Solo shooting rest on a solid shooting bench.
 
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