Round Sticks in Redding Micro-crimp Die

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CQB45ACP

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This was prompted by two active threads in which both of these dies and caliber came up.

I use and like very much my FCD for .45ACP.

I also bought the Redding micrometer adjustable taper crimp die because, well, I don’t really know but I did. I figured it must be great because it was expensive and I was also using several other Redding dies for .45ACP which are great.

I used the Redding for a few hundred rounds and didn’t care for it at all. Reading the comments in the other threads, I started thinking perhaps I was hasty in rejecting the Redding and decided to give it another go.

Well, I still don’t like it, but is it operator error or the die?

The problem is each round “sticks” as I lower the cartridge out of the die. This happens even with slight contact. I can FCD a round first and then use the Redding and again it sticks.

I took out the sleeve, polished interior contact surfaces with Flitz, reassembled and again it sticks. Very slightly less I suppose, but not much.

Then I used 2000grit sandpaper followed by Flitz, still get that sticking. I have adjusted to virtually no crimp (not enough crimp) and it sticks. It also leaves a mark at the mouth of the case. I’ve crimped to .471–.469 and all essentially the same.

What am I missing?

D4F39B5D-266A-4DA0-B59D-D7A2FF8C119C.jpeg
 
The problem is each round “sticks” as I lower the cartridge out of the die. This happens even with slight contact. I can FCD a round first and then use the Redding and again it sticks.

I have come across this same issue ( albeit with Dillon dies, not Redding or the FCD )...
I found it only happens for me with NEW brass ( Starline ) that I haven't deburred.
Once said brass is fired, the issue doesn't appear again.
It doesn't harm anything IMO, just kinda annoying....I still won't deburr most new pistol brass,tho...:cool:...I will size it, just not deburr.....
 
No, just pointing out. . Don't have or need one. My RCBS works fine. :)

Try a lighter crimp? Just remove bell/flare?
I guess I wasn’t clear, but have tried it as light as can be and still sticks.
The feel is similar to what I’ve had occasionally sizing a super clean case but this is just at mouth.
I have two FCDs too which work just fine also, but this was $100 and should work:)
 
I was loading some 10mm the other day. And my Lee FCD. Was pulling the bullet out on some of them. I have no idea why. I reseated them. Ran them back through the FCD. And they were fine.
 
Wonder if someone at Redding mis-labeled some 45 roll crimp sleeves and put them in the 45ACP dies. It wouldn't be the first time Redding got their parts mixed up.
We had another member that had a Redding single ring resizing die that couldn't get neck tension and it turned out Redding put the bottom ring of a duel ring die in his single ring resizing die. Oversized.
Something to try while waiting for Redding to call.
Resize an empty 45 ACP case, neck size it and run it through the 45 seating die, but screw it down a little more to see if you get a roll crimp.
Something is definitely wrong with that die.
I have the Redding Micrometer seating die for 9mm but use a Lyman Micrometer taper crimp die (because it was on sale) so I don't have one of Redding's taper crimp dies in front of me. But how different can they be, they only do one thing.
 
"...but have tried it as light as can be and still sticks.". FWIW; I have no problems with "crimping" my semi-auto handloads. I don't use an FCD (never needed to post seat/crimp resize any handload I've assembled) and don't crimp. For several thousand semi-auto handloads I use as little "crimp" as to allow good plunking. I have only deflared 32 ACP, 380 AC. 9mm, and 45 ACP with a plain old taper crimp die for may years and many, many handloads. Owning/using a "Micro adjustable crimping die" is probably cool to a gadget nut, but may be the gist of the problem...

Just sharing my experiences, not criticizing anyone's choice of tool...
 
"...but have tried it as light as can be and still sticks.". FWIW; I have no problems with "crimping" my semi-auto handloads. I don't use an FCD (never needed to post seat/crimp resize any handload I've assembled) and don't crimp. For several thousand semi-auto handloads I use as little "crimp" as to allow good plunking. I have only deflared 32 ACP, 380 AC. 9mm, and 45 ACP with a plain old taper crimp die for may years and many, many handloads. Owning/using a "Micro adjustable crimping die" is probably cool to a gadget nut, but may be the gist of the problem...

Just sharing my experiences, not criticizing anyone's choice of tool...
I have no problems either except with the Redding as described and could simply stop using it (again). But, being the gadget junkie that I am, I want this thing to work:)

Incidentally, I did just hear from Redding and this is what they said:

“That taper crimp may require a little bit of imperial sizing die wax to help release the case from crimp or you may be trying to crimp a little too much.
Cleaning frequently seems to be required with that particular die the imperial helps to increase your intervals.”

So, that’s it. I know I’m not over crimping…have experimented scores of times from none to some crimp. It sticks dag nabbit.
 
So based on that, the Redding crimp die requires lube for handgun brass??

Does it do this with all headstamps of brass?
 
So based on that, the Redding crimp die requires lube for handgun brass??

Does it do this with all headstamps of brass?
Well mine certainly does apparently but I’m now going to go to work with 600-1500 sandpaper, a final polish with Flitz and see what happens.

What I’m not going to do is disassemble this thing regularly and wax it up like a surfboard when I have a couple of perfectly fine carbide ring FCDs already mounted on the same turret and ready to go.

I can’t actually answer your second question as to “all” but can say, “more than just one or two.” I’ll try a “one of each” test (which will be about 10) and see what happens.
 
I’ve crimped to .471–.469 and all essentially the same.
I could very well be completely off, as I set my crimp by eye, but I thought this sounded a bit tight

I thought you were supposed to take the diameter of the bullet (.452") and add the thickness of the case walls (.011" +.011"), which should bring you to .474" (.452" + .022") to remove the flare from the case mouth
 
I could very well be completely off, as I set my crimp by eye, but I thought this sounded a bit tight

I thought you were supposed to take the diameter of the bullet (.452") and add the thickness of the case walls (.011" +.011"), which should bring you to .474" (.452" + .022") to remove the flare from the case mouth
Could well be but I’ve never even measured case walls. I’ll give it a try. I do know Penn bullets said to crimp their 200 SWCs @.469”

Anyway, this process has reminded me what I learned a while back…the Redding crimp die is more finicky than is the FCD. Or, I’m just looking for the easy way out and the FCD gives me that option.
 
Well mine certainly does apparently but I’m now going to go to work with 600-1500 sandpaper, a final polish with Flitz and see what happens.

What I’m not going to do is disassemble this thing regularly and wax it up like a surfboard when I have a couple of perfectly fine carbide ring FCDs already mounted on the same turret and ready to go.

I can’t actually answer your second question as to “all” but can say, “more than just one or two.” I’ll try a “one of each” test (which will be about 10) and see what happens.

Take a close look at the surface in the inside of the body, where the collet rides. I would concentrate on those areas.
 
A random round I picked out of a box of reloads once to answer a
similar question, since I really didn't know what mine measured
Berrys 230 Gr RN .45 ACP Crimp Pic a @ 75%.JPG
 
I also bought the Redding micrometer adjustable taper crimp die because, well, I don’t really know but I did. I figured it must be great because it was expensive and I was also using several other Redding dies for .45ACP which are great.

Wonder if someone at Redding mis-labeled some 45 roll crimp sleeves and put them in the 45ACP dies.

There is something to look into what @tightgroup tiger stated. the .45 Auto Rim uses a roll crimp I believe.
Is there a part # on your die for some sort of reference to the Redding #'s...?
That would definitely give that round the look and feel you're getting...
 
1) as you know, that's too much crimp for an autoloading .45ACP.

2) of course it sticks. . . you're crimping! The operation is much like sizing, but just a narrow stripe at the mouth.

Situation normal. Also, for what that die cost, I want to see a 2"@50yard group.
 
If you’re crimping .471-.469 you’re just fine, I will sometimes crimp down to .465 on my 185 LSWC Bullseye loads with no issues.
 
With loaded round, ready to crimp:

Color the case mouth to 1/4" below case mouth with black sharpie.

Color the first 1/8" of bullet - start at case mouth and go up.

Let ink dry for 5 minutes or so.....

Crimp the bullet and post picture please.
 
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