Rubbing alcohol to remove blackpowder corrosive salts

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I use rubbing alcohol in my cleaning process but also use other things as well. I use cold water & soap, dry, wd40, wipe off, rem oil in that order. I remove the nipples soak in rubbing alcohol wii off let dry,oil only the threads, oil only the out side of the cylinder leave the cylinder walls dry, if needed I will use a brass brush on the cylinder walls. When breaking the gun completely down clean internals with rubbing alcohol polish with brite boy, lube some things with synthetic bearing grease also use it on the arbor. Only break the gun completely down a couple of ties a year.
 
Been using soapy water for cleaning black powder guns for well over 40 years. No problems, no rust.
It's not any more complicated to clean with soapy water than with anything else. Read the directions for "Black Powder Wunder Cleaner" solvents sold commercially, and they're identical to using soapy water.
I use tap water, a little Dawn dish soap and -- if I feel I may need a little extra grease-cutting ability -- a little alcohol. But on the whole, soapy water works just fine and is cheap.
Commercial black powder cleaners are water-based. They must be, to dissolve the salts left behind. The old G.I. bore cleaner, used up to the 1960s or early 1970s, was water-based too. It was necessary to have water in it, to dissolve the salts left by corrosive primers.
Salt is dissolved in water, but not in oil or alcohol. It's as simple as that.

People overthink the cleaning of black powder guns. I've tried a variety of liquids, including Windex and "Moose Milk" and always go back to soapy water.
It's cheap. It's effective. In 40+ years of use, it has never damaged my guns IF I used it properly -- that means, ensuring the metal is dry after cleaning.
Even the Wunder Cleaners require drying the metal after use.

Water. Soap. Mebbe a little alcohol (about the only thing that Bacardi rum is good for). It works, and it's inexpensive.
 
BusyHands, hope no one was smoking around you while using those heads! That **** is really good for paint removal and a carb starter (I've been told).
 
To "alsaqr" the stuff I used was 5% acetic acid as well and it rusted the stainless steel
 
I use the individually packaged alcohol soaked patches they sell to swab injection sites. I use these in the field with my flintlock rifles. After every shot I run one or two alcohol patches down the bore to clear out the fouling before loading the next shot.

They work great for that, but there are way better products to do a complete cleaning.
 
Have any of you ever given any thought to the fact that Revolutionary or Civil War soldiers could not possibly worry about swabbing the bore between shots if they were firing multiple shots per minute? I bet they never worried about a "hot chamber" setting of the powder charge they were dumping in either. I think in this modern litigious and pants wetting world we spend way too much time in the world of "what if" to actually think about the reality of our ancestors or the foolishness of our fears.
 
Hot water and dish soap in a trough made from plastic rain gutter material is simple and cheap. Why solve a problem that doesn't exist?
Thats how my dad said he always did it but i was shocked. Ide never put any of my cartridge guns in water and i remember for years he always ran a dehumidifier in our basement because of the moisture in the air.

It does require fully disassemble the firearm but i dont think ide want to do it any other way.

The soap and water worked great. Fallowed it up with a little G96 and they were read to go again.

It was a little work but everything about blackpowder is a little more work isnt it?

I shot mine 3 times before i cleaned em really good so that isnt to bad IMO. The last day they were looking pretty bad. Hard to move and i could tell is was time.
 
I use rubbing alcohol (99%) as part of the process, after the hot water treatment. It helps get rid of remaining soot and displace any residual water. I also use it at the range as way of cleaning out barrels for more shooting.
 
Have never been able to get my '73 Winchester (1880) to have a completely clean patch. I finely got the magazine and forearm off and was able to put the barrel in a 5 gal. pail of hot soapy water and brush , swab, brush, and brush some more. It is now CLEAN but would only use water if there aren't places for water to get trapped.
 
I use rubbing alcohol (99%) as part of the process, after the hot water treatment.
I think that the 99% is probably a typo as it is not possible to distill any alcohol to greater than 95% .. useless too since 100% reagent grade alcohol absorbs moisture from the air as soon as the bottle is opened and reverts to 95% alcohol. (I remembered something from all those chemistry classes after all. ;) )
 
Windex with ammonia (pH around 10) is a base which will neutralize acids,which are what corroded black powder guns.Mix up some baking soda in water and it will neutralize acids like your car battery terminals

Soap and water will do the same for less.Very Hot water will dry faster

Watch the movie My Big Fat Greek Wedding (it really is funny and my wife made me) The father used Windex to cure everything!:D

Rubbing alcohol is mostly water and had a neutral or acid pH(6-7pH) I do not see how it would do anything for BP residue other than the water rinsing some of it off??
 
I use 99% when I can find it for swabbing my barrels and I carry it with me in the field in a small eye dropper. For cleaning I use alcohol and 25% murphy's oil soap intially, then a few swipes with Marvels Mystery Oil, and a finish with Lucas Gun Oil... and if you haven't tried this stuff ... you should!
 
Howdy

I will probably get my head handed to me for mentioning it, I always do when I mention it, but all I have used to clean Black Powder fouling for years now is Murphy's Mix. Equal portions of Murphy's Oil Soap, Rubbing Alcohol, and drugstore Hydrogen PerOxide.

Why reinvent the wheel I am asked. I have been cleaning with hot soapy water since before the Flood. Always worked fine for me! Why spend all that money on special ingredients when water is so cheap? Good enough for the Civil War, good enough for me!

Two reasons. You don't have to heat it. You can use it cold right at the range, before you leave. Reason Number Two: you don't have to dry it out. You don't have to take the gun apart to get it out. You don't have to heat anything to dry it out. You just leave it down inside, wet! Period.

Yes, a large part of Murphy's Mix is water, and it is the water that actually does the cleaning. The Per Oxide is about 97% water, the alcohol is about 20% water. It is the water that does the actual dissolving and washing away of the fouling. The alcohol is just a drying agent, helping to evaporate the water more quickly. The 3% Per Oxide provides a little bit of fizz to help lift off stubborn fouling. But most important, when the alcohol and water evaporate, the Oil Soap remains behind and coats every thing with an oily residue. Here is a little understood fact. If you coat Black Powder fouling with oil, it looses its ability to cause rust. I have been doing this for years. No more heating anything, no more trying to dry the water out. Just leave it down inside. Once a year (or less) I take my guns apart and clean out all the black, oily gunk inside. Always plenty of gunk, never any rust. If you want your guns to be White Glove clean inside, then don't try this. If you need to clean two revolvers, a rifle, and a shotgun at the end of the day, and don't want to spend a couple of hours, try Murphy's Mix.

Regarding chemicals and acids and bases. Forget all that. It does not matter. The real way we prevent rust is by diluting the bad stuff with water and washing it away. Just use plenty of some sort of water based BP cleaning solution (hot soapy water if you insist) and dilute and wash away the bad stuff, forget the chemistry lessons.

One more thing. It was BP fouling coupled with corrosive primers that caused most of the rust in the old days. I have bunches of old guns over 100 years old. Most have pitted bores, some do not. But it was the fouling AND the corrosive primers that did the deed. We don't use corrosive primers anymore, and BP fouling is not as corrosive as it used to be with modern non-corrosive primers.

OK, flame away.
 
wow ive learned a lot of stuff will work. i know soap and water and gun bore cleaner work.If alcohol does,id think acetone might too.ive heard windex too.
 
That's what you get for thinking.
Rubbing alcohol is 30% water.
Windex is about 90% water.
Soap and water is water.
Acetone normally contains no water.
 
I don't clean my guns at the range, but instead wait until I am home and have a nice table and utensils to work with. I use hot tap water in a Schwan's ice cream container, heat for an additional two minutes in the micro wave, add the dish soap, clean all of my black powder weapons, blow out the nipple, chamber, and barrel with compressed air, and then oil, reassemble and put away. The entire process takes about a half hour for a pistol and two rifles. I did not mean to hand your head to you by making such a statement but if that is your perception then enjoy!
 
Cold water will not produce Sulphuric Acid like Hot water will. Cold water is what the old timers used. Cold water would've been more easily obtained of course over hot water, but unknowingly or knowingly, Cold water is easier on the bore than hot water when mixed with black powder residue. I'll bet that somebody in Ordnance had it figured out though.
 
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All salts and acids are water soluble as are alcohols. Water or water/soap solutions are superior in dissolving these contaminants. If the bore is dried quickly after a thorough rinsing with water, a highly concentrated alcohol such as 70+% isopropyl or ethyl alcohol can be used to help evaporate any small traces of water left behind.
Then a light oiling will protect the bore.

Bottom line: water is the most efficient product for cleaning black powder residue.
 
Boil off the petroleum

Use only wholly blk powder. Petrol;(Oil products )+ BP+ fire = sulfuric acid! Boil wih soap water & grape seed oil . Don't rinse get the metal very hot. (Soaked) wipe down with grape seed oil ,bore & all, get the petrol off the stocks. When you shoot if, you smell the baby scat , you didn't get all the petroleum . Repeat till you get all out ! Then just use natural oils like your forefathers did! No mre petrol crud.
 
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Rubbing alcohol can be either denatured ethyl alcohol or methyl alcohol. Neither work all that well as a black powder solvent/cleaner, but both work quite well diluted by half with water. Water is a better solvent for black powder fouling. Alcohol, (either kind) works to dissolve grease. Together they make good partnership and do a great job at cleaning a gun fires using real black powder or any of the "substitutes."
 
Rubbing Alcohol

I have to go wit yes.
Been using it for thirty five years.

An old man back then told me to use it.

do not leave items soaking for more than a few minutes, just to soften.

Soaking too long the RA will draw moisture from the air.
But to soak a few minutes to soften then clean and dry works great.
Just a light quick dry with a cotton rag or tissue and you're fine.
 
Warm soapy water,dry the bore, give it a shot of alcohol to remove any water sitting on the face of the breech plug as well as inside the bolster, dry it, oil with Barricade and I am protected.
 
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