[email protected] started a post discussing how a trigger stop could improve your accuracy. So I finally got around to noticing how much overtravel my ROA really has...and it's a lot.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=736736&highlight=trigger+stop
He showed the conventional methods of putting a stop in, through the rear of the trigger guard or through the trigger itself. Neither appealed to me. I have a Colt Python with a set screw stop through the trigger and it annoys me.
I wouldn't hesitate to go the through the trigger guard method as I have an Power Inc grip-frame on it. However, there is no way to get a drill and tap in there. It would be too low, in my opinion, on the guard.
Then good old Doak suggested modifying the trigger return plunger. Bingo! I do not have the talent or equipment to do what Doak outlined but I did the "Idiot gunsmiths" fix and it worked out shockingly well!
All I did was find a #6 brass screw with some unthreaded shank. I then thinned down and reduced the head diameter with some files and a grinder. I reduced the head diameter to fit through the plunger tunnel which left just enough beyond the body diameter to act as a spring seat. I then thinned the head down so it wouldn't put hardly any pre-load on the plunger spring. (I believe that would increase the trigger weight.)
I closed a coil on the spring just enough to grab the brass shaft. Just like it does with the plunger on the other end.
Now all I had to do was file away the brass shaft to where the trigger would drop the hammer. It was a bit of trial and error but I ended up with only about an 1/8" shaft before it would contact the plunger tip and stop the trigger. Yours will likely be a different length as mine is in a Power Inc grip-frame...not a stock ROA.
I tried it out today and it works stupid good. The trigger breaks like glass and stops.
It's possible I've got it "too close" and after a long string crud could prevent the hammer from going to full cock...but we'll see. All I would have to do is file a bit more off. All in all a 5 cent brass screw and an hour at the work table seems to have paid off.
However, if Doak decides to make a true adjustable plunger...I'm a buyer! [email protected] was right. A trigger stop does improve your accuracy immediately and my ROA had a lot of overtravel.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=736736&highlight=trigger+stop
He showed the conventional methods of putting a stop in, through the rear of the trigger guard or through the trigger itself. Neither appealed to me. I have a Colt Python with a set screw stop through the trigger and it annoys me.
I wouldn't hesitate to go the through the trigger guard method as I have an Power Inc grip-frame on it. However, there is no way to get a drill and tap in there. It would be too low, in my opinion, on the guard.
Then good old Doak suggested modifying the trigger return plunger. Bingo! I do not have the talent or equipment to do what Doak outlined but I did the "Idiot gunsmiths" fix and it worked out shockingly well!
All I did was find a #6 brass screw with some unthreaded shank. I then thinned down and reduced the head diameter with some files and a grinder. I reduced the head diameter to fit through the plunger tunnel which left just enough beyond the body diameter to act as a spring seat. I then thinned the head down so it wouldn't put hardly any pre-load on the plunger spring. (I believe that would increase the trigger weight.)
I closed a coil on the spring just enough to grab the brass shaft. Just like it does with the plunger on the other end.
Now all I had to do was file away the brass shaft to where the trigger would drop the hammer. It was a bit of trial and error but I ended up with only about an 1/8" shaft before it would contact the plunger tip and stop the trigger. Yours will likely be a different length as mine is in a Power Inc grip-frame...not a stock ROA.
I tried it out today and it works stupid good. The trigger breaks like glass and stops.
It's possible I've got it "too close" and after a long string crud could prevent the hammer from going to full cock...but we'll see. All I would have to do is file a bit more off. All in all a 5 cent brass screw and an hour at the work table seems to have paid off.
However, if Doak decides to make a true adjustable plunger...I'm a buyer! [email protected] was right. A trigger stop does improve your accuracy immediately and my ROA had a lot of overtravel.
