ruger 10/22 barrel removal and install
- Thread starter Tape
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Hogue OverMolded rubber stock. $413.00 cash discount price plus ffl pick up charge then a new stock. no thanks
I only spent 521.87 minus the barrel and got what I wanted.
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sorry I have amg money and not ford focus like you, get a better jobShaw makes an $800 10/22 barrell?!?Even the Lilja's come in at less than $500.
TonyAngel touched on it, but if you've got AMG type of money, you owe it to yourself to check out Tony Kidd's products (coolguyguns.com). If you don't like the trigger job you do yourself to the stock unit, you wont find a finer unit than one of his TGs.
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CraigC
Sixgun Nut
I agree that was a crappy response to Magoo's post. If you want the best trigger available, KIDD is the only game in town.
why is that? why should he even bring up "if I can afford" crap, I think it was a crappy reply he refered to me!
if you can't take it, don't start it!
you can see I am always polite to everyone until they start childish remarks like he did. Sorry I can afford a new amg, if you want one get a better job!
no I not sorry
As I said the Shaw barrel is temporary, the barrel I have coming cost me $499 plus a $200 tax stamp, a $75 transfer fee, and it was 25 bucks shipping. Okay...it was $799 not $800...I rounded up, sue me.
I have shot a Kidd trigger, they are nice but no better than the Timney trigger pack I used for the build for the suppressed host. The Timney was $140 and that includes a CNC machined housing, auto bolt release, and extended mag release.
451, is the Shaw barrels not up to your standards? can you give your thoughts on the shaw's barrel?
I checked out their website and it seems they have done their homework but I'm sure you know barrels better then I do.
I checked out their website and it seems they have done their homework but I'm sure you know barrels better then I do.
The Shaw barrel is excellent but it is not suppressed. The barrel in my pic above is the Yankee Hill Machine Integrally Suppressed barrel.
Tape, you've made mention of your AMG budget a couple of times, so assuming that the sky is the limit, I'd say that you're looking in the wrong place for these parts. First of all, I wouldn't have started with a Ruger at all.
Maybe you should just take that rifle that you have and leave it in plinker form or sell it. As has been mentioned, Kidd has good parts; so I'd start there.
First get the Kidd Supergrade receiver, bolt, charging handle and other doo dads. Then I'd get a Lilja barrel and follow it up with a Kidd two stage trigger. I don't know what 451 is talking about with the Timney being just as nice as a Kidd. From what I've seen, Kidd has the nicest production 10/22 trigger on the planet and all others run at least a distant second. Throw all of these parts together and have them dropped into a McMillan stock.
I would consider a build like this to be about as good as it could get.
Maybe you should just take that rifle that you have and leave it in plinker form or sell it. As has been mentioned, Kidd has good parts; so I'd start there.
First get the Kidd Supergrade receiver, bolt, charging handle and other doo dads. Then I'd get a Lilja barrel and follow it up with a Kidd two stage trigger. I don't know what 451 is talking about with the Timney being just as nice as a Kidd. From what I've seen, Kidd has the nicest production 10/22 trigger on the planet and all others run at least a distant second. Throw all of these parts together and have them dropped into a McMillan stock.
I would consider a build like this to be about as good as it could get.
Tony, I enjoy and proud of projects I complete. I do not like just going out and buying something unless it is a car, house and so on. I am a very large gun lover, I am also competitive and shooting matches is my favorite. Shooting a gun I modified is more enjoyable and gratifying . I am sure you know and many other feel the same. Let us please drop any other subjects not regarding this subject. The 10/22 is a good platform to start of with is my thought; I am and will complete this. Just about anyone, can go and buy a firearm already done professionally. I want to do this my way, compete and enjoy, share ideas with others and learn, LEARN is why I come here, not to yak yak on subjects or argue with people. The worst thing I hate is arguing with someone, this is why I am not married. My interest is presently; taking this stock firearm and doing modification and try to shoot at/near professional level.
so taking a 10/22, replacing the barrel/stock and doing a homemade trigger job will not shoot as good as the setup you mention above? if you say no way that is what I want to hear and that level is what I'm aiming for with my setup. do you understand all I'm trying to get across? Competition
So you have shot both like I have? My Timney has zero pre travel, almost zero post travel, and breaks clean like the proverbial glass rod. To me it feels better than the Kidd. If you like the Kidd that is fine but opinions are like....well everyone has one and they all smell about the same...lol. The other nice thing about the Timney is it feels almost exactly like the Timney's in my ARs...consistency is a good thing.
Tape ~
I haven't bought a complete gun in a while now, I tend to buy components and build the gun I want rather than settling for what is offered. My 1911 I use for Action Pistol started life as a raw Caspian slide and receiver. My last AR was built starting with a stripped receiver set, the last 10/22 has only one Ruger part in it, the stock screw. Like you I feel it is more enjoyable competing with a gun I put together myself. And while I am not a Master Gunsmith I am good enough to build guns that will rival what most factories can produce and even what many of the boutique put out.
Starting with a stock Ruger receiver and trigger group I think using Volquartzen trigger parts and barrel would be a great start. The stock is really dependent in the type of shooting you plan on for the rifle. My Fajen stocked 10/22 is used primarily off the bipod, either on the bench or prone. It has a Volquartzen bull barrel and trigger components. It is a heavy rifle and extended strings offhand are tough on a bad back. The lightweight build with the Boyd's stock is very light and great for 22 steel shoots, it wears a 2 power Tru Glo red dot and is easy to shoot from any position. The M1 Carbine version was built strictly for use with iron sights and it shoots very well.
I would consider the rifle's planned usages and go from there.
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CraigC
Sixgun Nut
He was making a suggestion as to better parts. Perhaps assuming, due to your AMG references (bragging???), that you would have more money to spend and therefore, could afford a set of KIDD components. Why? Because they are the best. Nobody "started" anything but you. Chip on your shoulder???
I agree with Tony that if you want to build the best 10/22 money can buy, there are better places to start than a factory carbine. #1 part on that list would be a Nodak/Spud, KIDD, Tactical Innovations, Tactical Solutions, Volquartsen or MOA aftermarket receiver. Then a CNC machined aftermarket bolt like those from TI or KIDD and a KIDD trigger. If you want the best barrel available, Lilja is your solution.
When you said "$800 barrel" I don't think anyone could've assumed it was an integrally suppressed YHM unit. Could be that some of us misread what you said about barrels and having one built.
I agree as far as quality and yes, I've shot one with a Timney trigger. Feel is another matter and entirely subjective.
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I did indeed misread on the Shaw barell. Oops. Looking forward to seeing your integrally suppressed setup. I need to get my Kidd threaded as only one of my 10/22s currently is .
Tape- sorry if I rankled your feathers when I suggested you look at Kidd products. I've just been pleased with my full Kidd Supergrade build (and I'd be happy to take it to the range in a Ford Focus, but I'm more of a truck guy). Enjoy building with whatever parts you chose.
Brian- nope, "Magoo" is my dog's name and it was the first thing that popped into my head the first time I signed up for a board.
.Tape- sorry if I rankled your feathers when I suggested you look at Kidd products. I've just been pleased with my full Kidd Supergrade build (and I'd be happy to take it to the range in a Ford Focus, but I'm more of a truck guy
). Enjoy building with whatever parts you chose. Brian- nope, "Magoo" is my dog's name and it was the first thing that popped into my head the first time I signed up for a board.
man, a thread with a couple of people that can not comprehend what they read. No not bragging, if you want bragging I am one that can do it! why didi bring up amg, READ IT.
if you can not keep this on topic lets lock it. I really don't care. there are plenty of forums I can go to that can comprehend better then a few here, ideas may not be as good but ideas nonetheless. I don't want to buy a rifle already built. "is this clear?" I want to build a good one. I started this thread to get ideas not to be told to go buy one already built, I am wise enough to figure that out myself.
if you can not keep this on topic lets lock it. I really don't care. there are plenty of forums I can go to that can comprehend better then a few here, ideas may not be as good but ideas nonetheless. I don't want to buy a rifle already built. "is this clear?" I want to build a good one. I started this thread to get ideas not to be told to go buy one already built, I am wise enough to figure that out myself.
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That is why I made the suggestions I did...
So much depends on the main purpose for the rifle. Saying it will be used for competition is fine but I would not use the same rifle for benchrest as I would for a Steel Challenge type course of fire, and I wouldn't use either for an Appleseed. I realize not everyone uses specialized firearms but I do tailor guns for specific types of competitions. Too many years of shooting all manner of competitions has made me realize some guns are better suited than others in various circumstances.
Looking at the stock you choose lends me to think this will be more for action type shooting than benchrest. As such you may find the full stainless bull barrel to be a bit heavy and it will be easier to overswing targets with it when moving fast. That was one of the reasons I used a Tactical Solutions barrel on my action gun build, much lighter than an all stainless barrel.
When it comes to triggers you can run the gamut from a home trigger job on the original parts with can be very good if you have the skills to buying a complete trigger group. Powers, Volquartzen, Clark, and other make great components if you want to go the way of using the factory trigger housing. I have used all of those three at one time or another but I am sold on the Timney these days. Other people like the Kidd and my brother loves his Hornet Products. http://www.hornetproducts.com/bin/category.asp?category=10
Everyone has components they favor, with the 10/22 it is most definitely a learning curve.
So much depends on the main purpose for the rifle. Saying it will be used for competition is fine but I would not use the same rifle for benchrest as I would for a Steel Challenge type course of fire, and I wouldn't use either for an Appleseed. I realize not everyone uses specialized firearms but I do tailor guns for specific types of competitions. Too many years of shooting all manner of competitions has made me realize some guns are better suited than others in various circumstances.
Looking at the stock you choose lends me to think this will be more for action type shooting than benchrest. As such you may find the full stainless bull barrel to be a bit heavy and it will be easier to overswing targets with it when moving fast. That was one of the reasons I used a Tactical Solutions barrel on my action gun build, much lighter than an all stainless barrel.
When it comes to triggers you can run the gamut from a home trigger job on the original parts with can be very good if you have the skills to buying a complete trigger group. Powers, Volquartzen, Clark, and other make great components if you want to go the way of using the factory trigger housing. I have used all of those three at one time or another but I am sold on the Timney these days. Other people like the Kidd and my brother loves his Hornet Products. http://www.hornetproducts.com/bin/category.asp?category=10
Everyone has components they favor, with the 10/22 it is most definitely a learning curve.
Yes, I have shot the Timney and Kidd. In fact, I've shot, tested, owned most of the better name triggers out there. The Kidd is head and shoulders above the rest. What you really have to understand about rimfire is that rimfire is not like centerfire. When it comes to rimfire you do have to spend the money to get the best and the best is noticeably better than the rest.
The advise that I conveyed came as a result of a very stupid venture that I embarked upon not long ago. I got into shooting a local benchrest competition. It takes place every Saturday morning and is meant to be open to everyone, so the guy that runs the shoot made it a rule that everyone has to shoot supplied Wolf Match Target ammunition. Inspite of the ammunition requirement, the match and its participants evolved. The other guys were shooting the likes of 54 action Anschutz, Remington 40X, Turbo and Time Precision and I'm not talking bone stock rifles either.
Just to go against the grain, I announced that I was going to shoot the matches with a 10/22 and I was going to do it from a bipod. Most guys laughed at me and all said that I was wasting my time. The match that we shoot consists of shooting a total of 75 rounds at three ARA target cards of 25 targets each, at 50 yards, with an additional 25 rounds which could be used for sighters. A perfect score would be 7500.
After much work and experimentation with my 10/22, I got to where I was regularly shooting in the 6900s. I also posted a few scores over 7000. On one occassion I was able to shoot a 7200, which is, from what I've been told, a range record with a 10/22.
So...I'm just basing what I'm saying on my experiences.
You must also understand that a good shooting 10/22 is more than just a conglomeration of parts. The assembly and tweaking of the screws plays a big part in the accuracy potential of a 10/22. The bedding is also very important. Not so much for just shooting groups, but it plays a pretty big part in consistency when you are shooting in an event that requires a lot of going from one target to another. This is why I suggested a receiver with an attachment point at the rear. It makes getting a solid bedding easier to attain, although I was able to do it with a more conventional receiver without the rear attachment point.
In hind sight, I could have saved myself a lot of time, blood, sweat and tears by just going with the supermatch receiver.
Of course, what I advised only helps to increase your chances of success. I have seen a few $3500 rifles (bolt actions included) that just didn't shoot as well as the owner hoped it would. Still, when you use quality components it becomes less of a crap shoot.
If you just have a bug and insist on building it yourself, get the components that I mentioned above. If you just want a killer 10/22 and have the wallet to finance it, call Tony Kidd at coolguyguns.com and sit back and wait for it to arrive.
I do have to admit that my build isn't sporting a Lilja barrel. I'm running a Kidd 18" and got pretty good results. I was going to get a Lilja to see if I could push it even further, but sanity set in and for about the same amount of money that I had into the 10/22, I got into a Remington 40X in a McMillan stock. During practices, shooting 2450 or 2500 out of 2500 is common place. As it turns out, everyone was right and I was just being stubborn.
Of course, I do have a killer 10/22 and when the need for it arises, I doubt that there will be many semi autos that can keep up with it. Still, dollar for dollar, you get more accuracy out of a good bolt gun. I'm not trying to get off on a tangent here, but (and this is just my opinion) some guys, like me, get obsessed about something and fail to recognize that there is just a better way of doing things. If the utmost in accuracy is what you're after, you're barking up the wrong tree with the 10/22.
With my 10/22, shooting one ragged whole (as many people like to claim) was not hard to do. The question then becomes, how big is that one ragged hole. My 40X, when shooting for a group, will often put three to five rounds through nearly the same bullet hole at 50. Of course, my 40X weighs 12lbs and my 10/22 weighs 9.
The advise that I conveyed came as a result of a very stupid venture that I embarked upon not long ago. I got into shooting a local benchrest competition. It takes place every Saturday morning and is meant to be open to everyone, so the guy that runs the shoot made it a rule that everyone has to shoot supplied Wolf Match Target ammunition. Inspite of the ammunition requirement, the match and its participants evolved. The other guys were shooting the likes of 54 action Anschutz, Remington 40X, Turbo and Time Precision and I'm not talking bone stock rifles either.
Just to go against the grain, I announced that I was going to shoot the matches with a 10/22 and I was going to do it from a bipod. Most guys laughed at me and all said that I was wasting my time. The match that we shoot consists of shooting a total of 75 rounds at three ARA target cards of 25 targets each, at 50 yards, with an additional 25 rounds which could be used for sighters. A perfect score would be 7500.
After much work and experimentation with my 10/22, I got to where I was regularly shooting in the 6900s. I also posted a few scores over 7000. On one occassion I was able to shoot a 7200, which is, from what I've been told, a range record with a 10/22.
So...I'm just basing what I'm saying on my experiences.
You must also understand that a good shooting 10/22 is more than just a conglomeration of parts. The assembly and tweaking of the screws plays a big part in the accuracy potential of a 10/22. The bedding is also very important. Not so much for just shooting groups, but it plays a pretty big part in consistency when you are shooting in an event that requires a lot of going from one target to another. This is why I suggested a receiver with an attachment point at the rear. It makes getting a solid bedding easier to attain, although I was able to do it with a more conventional receiver without the rear attachment point.
In hind sight, I could have saved myself a lot of time, blood, sweat and tears by just going with the supermatch receiver.
Of course, what I advised only helps to increase your chances of success. I have seen a few $3500 rifles (bolt actions included) that just didn't shoot as well as the owner hoped it would. Still, when you use quality components it becomes less of a crap shoot.
If you just have a bug and insist on building it yourself, get the components that I mentioned above. If you just want a killer 10/22 and have the wallet to finance it, call Tony Kidd at coolguyguns.com and sit back and wait for it to arrive.
I do have to admit that my build isn't sporting a Lilja barrel. I'm running a Kidd 18" and got pretty good results. I was going to get a Lilja to see if I could push it even further, but sanity set in and for about the same amount of money that I had into the 10/22, I got into a Remington 40X in a McMillan stock. During practices, shooting 2450 or 2500 out of 2500 is common place. As it turns out, everyone was right and I was just being stubborn.
Of course, I do have a killer 10/22 and when the need for it arises, I doubt that there will be many semi autos that can keep up with it. Still, dollar for dollar, you get more accuracy out of a good bolt gun. I'm not trying to get off on a tangent here, but (and this is just my opinion) some guys, like me, get obsessed about something and fail to recognize that there is just a better way of doing things. If the utmost in accuracy is what you're after, you're barking up the wrong tree with the 10/22.
With my 10/22, shooting one ragged whole (as many people like to claim) was not hard to do. The question then becomes, how big is that one ragged hole. My 40X, when shooting for a group, will often put three to five rounds through nearly the same bullet hole at 50. Of course, my 40X weighs 12lbs and my 10/22 weighs 9.
Initially I went with Green Mountain then after reading awhile, and knowing that the barrel is the heart of accuracy I cancelled it and went with Lilja. Hope I made the right decision. It caused a delay in delivery, delivery is today, I checked UPS’s website and the parts are on the truck and it usually delivers around here at 2 and 4pm.
As I stated I think the adjustable V-Blocks are the way to go with a heavy barrel, second only to using a threaded barrel and receiver. I also credit part of the accuracy of my Volquartzen barreled gun to the scope mount. It is mounted to the barrel rather than the receiver.
You do have to drill and tap the barrel but when you do have a removable barrel attaching the scope to it instead of the receiver provides that extra little stability to the system.
You do have to drill and tap the barrel but when you do have a removable barrel attaching the scope to it instead of the receiver provides that extra little stability to the system.
I was wondering about the block, thanks I'll get one. tapping the barrel also sounds like a good idea. btw, nice rifleAs I stated I think the adjustable V-Blocks are the way to go with a heavy barrel, second only to using a threaded barrel and receiver. I also credit part of the accuracy of my Volquartzen barreled gun to the scope mount. It is mounted to the barrel rather than the receiver.
You do have to drill and tap the barrel but when you do have a removable barrel attaching the scope to it instead of the receiver provides that extra little stability to the system.
Finally got it together, I took the trigger housing completely apart and man if you never did it prepare to work on it for at least 2 hours. The worst thing is when you start pulling out pins springs go flying. After doing a trigger job I started putting it together and my trigger is now silky smooth, no take up and not gritty. I hate it that the companies always put a 1/4" or so take up. I loaded up two rounds and went out back and she shot great, she was quiet as well.
That barrel quiet it down a good bit which is good because I’m going to put a silencer on her so I can shoot it indoors,
For the newBs, the reason you would want to just load two rounds especially after a trigger job is just in case you polished the sear too much it may go full auto on you, if you just load two rounds and she does go full auto it’s only full auto for two rounds and not a whole clip.
That barrel quiet it down a good bit which is good because I’m going to put a silencer on her so I can shoot it indoors,
For the newBs, the reason you would want to just load two rounds especially after a trigger job is just in case you polished the sear too much it may go full auto on you, if you just load two rounds and she does go full auto it’s only full auto for two rounds and not a whole clip.
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