Ruger 10/22 RPF and Swivel Stud for Bipod?

[fbernar]

Greetings my friends!

I'm here because I am having trouble discerning which bipod I can use on my exact Ruger 10/22. I have the synthetic stock carbine (Ruger 10/22-RPF. Model #1151) and it brings a barrel band and I bought two UTG bipods to test out which one I like more, but now I realized I don't have a swivel stud on this gun. I thought the barrel band was what it needed. I know, I'm a newb.

Anyways, could anyone with experience with my Ruger model please direct me to which swivel stud or kit I could use so that I can use my newly purchased bipods. They arrived Friday and I can't use them yet!

Thank you in advance to any feedback! God bless you all!

 

[MarkDozier]

look at this kit on CTD. I think it provides the simplest solution.

http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/41796-1.html

 

[[email protected]]

Yep, that looks like what you need to me. Unfortunately, you only really need one of the two stud/screws in the kit... but you can always use the other items down the road or to put a sling on the rifle.

 

[bigfatdave]

get a 1.25" swivel kit of you're going to do that, more versatile for using serious slings.

 

[fbernar]

Thanks guys! You are all awesome!

 

[fbernar]

I ended up buying the Blackhawk swivel stud kit that MarkDozier linked me to. Doesn't seem to work because with the little stud it asks me to put in between the band it then makes the barrel band about 1mm too wide to the point where it does not fit on the stock snug at all and just slips right off.

Also, the kit does not allow for a UTG bipod of any sort to be fit over the barrel band and the swivel kit. Anyone successfully added a swivel and bipod to this model Ruger 10/22 without drilling or buying a new stock?

 

[fbernar]

No thoughts?

 

[Maverick223]

Anyone successfully added a swivel and bipod to this model Ruger 10/22 without drilling or buying a new stock?

Don't know about the bipod, but I installed the kit linked above (though I used 1.25in. swivels to allow the use of a better sling). IIRC the instructions stated that you need to file the band a bit for proper fitment. I widened the gap a bit with a flat-blade screwdriver, inserted a fine file, and worked it down until I achieved proper fitment. The bipod will probably not work because the stud hangs down a bit too far. The best option in this case is probably to go ahead and drill the stock and install a traditional swivel stud (FWIW I prefer the machine screw/nut style for the forearm).

 

[fbernar]

Yeah, I might just buy an aftermarket stock because the thing would look weird with drilled in stud and barrel band.

 

[Breakmyfootoff]

I dont think it would look weird with the drilled swivel stud and the barrel band. Plus the swivel stud mounted to the stock would be a more secure mounting location than having one clamped in the barrel band. Thats all eye of the beholder type stuff though

 

[Maverick223]

It sounds like you are trying to accurize the rifle, in which case a new stock (that free-floats the bbl) will help. FWIW I prefer the Fajen Legacy (fully adjustable version) or Boyd's Tacticool stock. I have both, on two different rifles, and they are both pretty solid stocks for a fair price.

 

[fbernar]

Tapco Intrafuse (T6) not good for accuracy? I had not heard of the wobble.

 

[Jon_Snow]

+1 on the Fajen, especially the adjustable version. The Tapco would make sense is you wanted AR style ergo's for the 10/22 or were going to have several shooters with different LOPs use it, but if accuracy is your goal the Fajen is a great system. Once it's properly adjusted, which is a painless process that's well documented in their instructions, it fits like a glove.

 

[fbernar]

Can you guys link me to the exact Fajen stock you guys are referring to?


Also does it bring a swivel stud?

 

[fbernar]

In regards to upgrades for my new 1022. Which of these do you recommend I buy first?

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=769638

or

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=145851

 

[Maverick223]

Tapco Intrafuse (T6) not good for accuracy? I had not heard of the wobble.

First off I didn't notice that you had this version/distributor exclusive as it isn't terribly common (I doubt (m)any others did either), I thought you had a standard synthetic stock with a barrel band (the root of the confusion). Now to answer your question, I doubt it is the most accurate stock, as I doubt it is well-bedded , nor does it free-float the barrel (both major benefits of aftermarket stocks), however there is absolutely no reason to change it if you like it (it isn't really my cup-o-tea, but that's impertinent to its effectiveness).

Now back to the original problem. For this particular stock, you'll likely do best by adding either a machine bolt type sling swivel stud (installed with appropriate nut), or a short section of generic Picatinny rail (bolted at the appropriate locations) depending upon the type of bipod used (I know some UTG bipods use a P-rail fastener, so this might be the best option).

Can you guys link me to the exact Fajen stock you guys are referring to?

Sure thing: Fajen Legacy (adjustable variant) Mine did not come with swivel studs installed. I installed them myself per the instructions above (machine screw front and rear {inside the butt}).

In regards to upgrades for my new 1022. Which of these do you recommend I buy first?

Personally I am reasonably mechanically inclined, so I would perform the work myself. You can carefully file the engagement surfaces to achieve a better trigger, and cut portions of the factory bolt release to achieve the same end at little or no cost (instructions are readily available on Rimfire Central forum, they know more than I about all things 10-22). OTOH if you don't feel comfortable doing the work yourself, I'd go with choice B (hammer and bolt release) first...it's less costly to boot!

 

[fbernar]

Does the Fajen stock need a bull barrel or anything else or is the stock barrel fine? Is the VQ hammer fine or is it recommended I go for the Hammer/Sear kit? $44 vs $80.

 

[Maverick223]

The Fajen doesn't "need" a bull bbl, but is designed to accommodate one. I used my OEM bbl in my Fajen Legacy for a while (in between a hvy. bbl .17HM2 and the new Tac. Sol. .22LR bull bbl) and it does look a bit funny (fairly large gap between the stock and bbl), but works just as well (and still promotes accuracy IME).

As I mentioned before I believe the hammer to be the best 1st step. IME it makes the most difference...if not good enough, you can always add the sear later. Additionally the kit you linked to includes the very handy auto bolt release (just pull back the bolt to release the bolt instead of having to finagle the poorly-designed OEM release)...and as noted is significantly less costly.

 

[fbernar]

What is IME? Is it like IMO?

I don't really understand the issue with the bolt release though. I work mine very easily. If that is a worry then I might just stick with the hammer then!

 

[Maverick223]

In My Experience & In My Opinion (OTOH is: on the other hand, FWIW is: for what it's worth, OEM is: original equipment manufacturer)

If it works for you, I see no reason to replace it, but I find it a pain to have to flip it up and in to release (the conversion allows you to just pull the bolt back slightly to release).