Picked up a compact .22LR a few days ago, did the trigger spring removal mod and mounted an older Nikon 4x in some old Weaver mounts on #12 Weaver bases. Trigger is crisp, light and very safe at about 1.5 pounds with the trigger spring removed. Very nice.
Good shooter, seems to prefer CCI Blazer among the bulk ammo I have available, got a few MOA 10 round groups at 50 yards, mostly luck given the low power scope and bipod rig, but well pleased with the trigger and perfect function. The bolt handle position and 60 degree bolt throw are very quick and easy to use and make mounting scopes with large ocular size low on the bore line possible. Put about 1,000 rounds through it mostly not off the bench and found it to be an excellent handling little rifle which responds very well to position shooting. Nice heft and a balance point right on the mag well for carry comfort. The use of the Ruger 10 round mags, one of the greatest rimfire inventions ever, is a real plus to this design and it makes it all the better if you happen to have a couple of dozen around.
Just as an aside the stock has enough space inside the butt to carry a small cleaning kit with pullthrough, a torx and hex wrench and some ammo, just turn the sling swivel a few times to open it up. Nice for field use.
Not the prettiest stock, but very functional. The metal work and finish were on par with CZ and the price is very reasonable. So far I have run about a thousand rounds through it with no failures to feed, eject , or fire.
Bolt strip
1. Hold bolt body firmly and rotate bolt handle clockwise to lower striker
2. Press end of shroud against firm surface while pressing out bolt pin, easy to do.
3. Shroud and spring will come off, then remove extractor spring by pulling outward on extractor and prying spring up with very small screwdriver blade, spring is then rotated off bolt freeing extractor and striker.
4. To get it back together assemble striker and bolt handle, slide onto bolt and reinstall extractor and extractor spring, hand pressure will easily do this, then align shroud with spring inside and place over bolt handle making sure striker is at bottom of cocking cam. Press end of shroud on firm surface and insert pin. Hold bolt body and rotate bolt handle counter clockwise prior to placing bolt into rifle
The striker cocks partially on opening, but does not fully cock until closing. This is why there seems to be some confusion over whether it cocks on opening or closing-both is the correct answer.
This is much like a CZ in that respect and that is why it takes some effort to fully close the bolt, it does smooth up all by itself over time.
A dab of good grease on the cocking cam of the bolt handle and on the locking lug helps.
Ruger claims a fast lock time for this rifle, they don't actually give a number but you have a fairly light striker moving a short distance with a stout spring.
It feels very fast and seems to impart very little vibration on actuation.
This may also explain the firing pin indent, it is a neat little circle just where it should be to derive maximum energy from the strike, and such a strike takes less energy than one which must also crush the rim.
Good shooter, seems to prefer CCI Blazer among the bulk ammo I have available, got a few MOA 10 round groups at 50 yards, mostly luck given the low power scope and bipod rig, but well pleased with the trigger and perfect function. The bolt handle position and 60 degree bolt throw are very quick and easy to use and make mounting scopes with large ocular size low on the bore line possible. Put about 1,000 rounds through it mostly not off the bench and found it to be an excellent handling little rifle which responds very well to position shooting. Nice heft and a balance point right on the mag well for carry comfort. The use of the Ruger 10 round mags, one of the greatest rimfire inventions ever, is a real plus to this design and it makes it all the better if you happen to have a couple of dozen around.
Just as an aside the stock has enough space inside the butt to carry a small cleaning kit with pullthrough, a torx and hex wrench and some ammo, just turn the sling swivel a few times to open it up. Nice for field use.
Not the prettiest stock, but very functional. The metal work and finish were on par with CZ and the price is very reasonable. So far I have run about a thousand rounds through it with no failures to feed, eject , or fire.
Bolt strip
1. Hold bolt body firmly and rotate bolt handle clockwise to lower striker
2. Press end of shroud against firm surface while pressing out bolt pin, easy to do.
3. Shroud and spring will come off, then remove extractor spring by pulling outward on extractor and prying spring up with very small screwdriver blade, spring is then rotated off bolt freeing extractor and striker.
4. To get it back together assemble striker and bolt handle, slide onto bolt and reinstall extractor and extractor spring, hand pressure will easily do this, then align shroud with spring inside and place over bolt handle making sure striker is at bottom of cocking cam. Press end of shroud on firm surface and insert pin. Hold bolt body and rotate bolt handle counter clockwise prior to placing bolt into rifle
The striker cocks partially on opening, but does not fully cock until closing. This is why there seems to be some confusion over whether it cocks on opening or closing-both is the correct answer.
This is much like a CZ in that respect and that is why it takes some effort to fully close the bolt, it does smooth up all by itself over time.
A dab of good grease on the cocking cam of the bolt handle and on the locking lug helps.
Ruger claims a fast lock time for this rifle, they don't actually give a number but you have a fairly light striker moving a short distance with a stout spring.
It feels very fast and seems to impart very little vibration on actuation.
This may also explain the firing pin indent, it is a neat little circle just where it should be to derive maximum energy from the strike, and such a strike takes less energy than one which must also crush the rim.
