Gonna need to take some more pictures before this is complete.
I was asked recently to outline the basics for polishing and modifying a Ruger American. Ill cover the relatively easy, and low cost modifications, and provide some info on some of the more expensive options (mostly large part swaps). Everything ill cover here will apply to most other bolt rifles, and the general ideas to any other action types.
Ill also try cover some basic info and comparisons between the American and other like actions.
SMOOTHING OUT THE BOLT.
Tools:
Bench Vice
Split ring pliers
Sand Paper and backers. The backer sizes can vary, I personally like to use as large a backer as will fit in/on my work piece so ill leave that up to you. You could also use fine stones if you have the correct ones. Sandpaper 400-1500 grit (I prefer 3M)
Wedge for compressing the firingpin spring. Not real sure on the exact dimensions needed. Im actually using the wedges that came with my Glades Armor bolt handles.
Punch set
First thing we need to do when working on the bolt is to remove it from the rifle, and disassemble it. I'm gonna assume everyone can clear their rifle, and get the thing out.
To remove the firing pin, we will need to remove the firing pin shroud.
first rotate the firingpin/shourd assembly clockwise, untill the flats on the rear of the firing pin spring stop align with the cams on the firing pin back. Then just wiggle the shroud back and up till its off. the shroud can and will get stuck, so it sometimes takes some finagling.
Now to remove the firing pin, youll need to wedge something into the gap between the firing pin back and the flats of the firing pin stop, but first youll need to open the gap up a bit by either pulling the firing pin back to the rear, or by using a split ring pliers to do the same.
When you put your wedge in, it should be on the flats of the firing pin back, and provide enough distance that the firing pin is now loose in the bolt body.
View attachment 844889
At that this point just pull the whole assembly rearwards while turning it, and you should feel it start to slide back thru the bolt handle (which it goes thru and retains).
There are some good videos on youtube that show the procedure in depth.
Next well remove the extractor. This is both very easy, and upsettingly easy to screw up. What i do is use a punch to push the extractor out, away from the bolt head, while maintaining downward pressure to keep the ball, ans spring from flying out.
After the extactor is removed, you can remove the ball, and spring. Id suggest storing them in zip lock, or some sort of parts container that wont get knocked over.....cause thats a fun parts hunt.
This is the same procedure for most any bolt gun that houses a sliding extractor in a lug. Browning A bolt 2s are noticeably different, but savage, bergara etc are the same.
View attachment 844968
We will also remove the ejector.
It is held in by a roll pin thru the head of the bolt (this pin if not replaced correctly can interfere with the firing pin, so care must be take on reassembly) This requires a small punch, Its the smallest punch in my cheap walmart punch set.
We'll punch the pin out from the side where the pin IS NOT visible. which if i remember correctly is the top of the bolt head.
You dont need to worry about the ejector flying out, as the punch will take the place of the pin as its driven out. When the pins completely out, stash it with your other parts, and carefully, while holding a finger over the bolt face/ejector remove the punch. Then remove the now loose ejector and ejector spring.
View attachment 844971
Reassembly is pretty much these steps in reverse, the only time you can really have an issue is putting the ejector retaining pin into far. It should be just flush with the bolt head on the same side you removed it from.
Actually polishing the bolt is quite easy, and about 1/2 the time of the whole project is taking it apart and cleaning it afterwards.
What i do, as none of my spinny things have a large enough bore to hold the bolt, is simply hold it by the head in one hand, then wrap a piece of good quality 6-800 grip wetted sand paper around the body and hold it with the other. Then just spin it back and forth for a while, alternating which lugs im turning it with so the whole thing gets worked. You can also work the sand paper back and forth lengthwise, but the sanding lines will be more obvious. (if you do this and have a wire wheel, you can use the wheel to burnish the lines away...in fact if your lazy, you can just use the wire wheel to take some of the grit out of the bolt travel with ought ever disassembling).
You can go up as high a grit as you like, as were not trying to completely remove the tooling marks so much as round them over and help them slide nicely.
The other major area to work on is the bolt stop groove, Its wide, deep, and not very well finished. A piece of 400-600grit on some flat stock will polish both the bottom of the groove and a side, or both if your stocks the right size. I dont try to get this perfectly smooth, just remove the heavier tooling marks and get the lines all running the same way. The other areas youll need to focus on are the upper edges of this grove as they often have a sharp "lip" from milling. I brake those at a 45* angle with a small file or my flat stock backed paper.
The last area that can use some attention, tho its not really needed, are the cam surfaces the bolt and firing pin back. I dont use anything heavier than 1500 grit on these, as you really dont want to change the angles, or remove any of the surface hardening. your simply smoothing out any sharp edges or mill marks. Backed on a round, straight stock, or punch its pretty quick and easy.
View attachment 844974
Finally I like the clean the whole thing with brake or carb cleaner, and wipe a thin coat of CLP or other light lube on all the surface in and out. I then reassemble the bolt head, then pin assembly and use a molly grease on the cam surfaces.
The whole process of polishing out the bolt should take about an hour, hour 1/2, start to finish. After youve done one, then about 1/2 that time, as taking it apart and putting it back together is much faster.
Ive taken one of my Americans to the point where you cant fell anything in the bolt travel, but it takes quite a while, and dosent provide enough of an improvement for me to really recommend it unless you really WANT that feel.
This is where youll want to polish the bolt more heavily, untill you cant feel or only lightly feel the milling marks if you run your fingernail down the bolt lengthwise
To do that youll need to also polish the inside of the receiver. To do this I suggest a 3/4" dowel and 800-1500 grit sand paper. Polish, clean, and test, till you get to the feel you want.
SMOOTHING OUT THE TRIGGER.
First step is to remove the trigger assembly, by driving out the two small roll pins that hold the assembly in place.
Once they are out, store them securely, and mount the trigger assembly upside down in a vice.
Next remove the trigger weight adjustment screw and put it with your pins.
Then remove the E clip retaining the trigger pivot pin, the pin, and Id suggest immediately putting them with your other parts as the E clips very easy to lose.
Carefully slide the trigger up and out. The return spring will be pushing on the trigger as it's removed, and it can pop a little, but not enough for it to be a risk of loss. After pulling the trigger pick the return spring out and store it.
Now that the triggers out; remove the pin that holds the trigger blade in, the spring, and then the blade itself, and store them with your other parts (you can polish the blade if you wish, but I don't usually bother).
Polish both sides of the trigger with 800+ grip sand paper. The side with the circles may need a bit more work, as those circles tend to have raised edges. This will smooth out what travel the trigger has.
Now your going to carefully polish the upper, and rear, faces of the triggers sear contact sufrace (top of the trigger). I go straight to 1500-2000grip paper backed by hard material, usually square stock. Again your not trying to change angles, or remove material, all were doing is polishing the contact surfaces. I will take a piece of 800 grit and make a couple passes on the top back edge to break the edge slightly, follow with a few strokes of your 1500 grit.
Once thats cleaned up add it to your parts.
Now flip the trigger housing over, and remove the small roll pin holding the sear down. Once thats out rotate the sear up, and remove the sear return spring. Now pop the E clip from the sear pivot pin, remove and store the lot.
Now remove the only remaining E clip and pin, and store those. This is the only Odd sized pin, and clip so its makes re assembly easy enough you dont really need to worry about mixing up your parts.
To polish the inside of the trigger housing, take your preferred grit of paper (I again use 800-1500), and wrap it around a square backer that fits inside the housing. Polish both sides untill they are smooth, which actually shouldnt take very long.
The last step here is to lightly polish the sears engagement surface with fine sand paper backed with square stock. Again were just smoothing out any rough spots, not changing angles or removing much material. I also give this edge a two or three passes at about 45*
Now again reassembly is pretty much exactly opposite of taking the trigger apart. If your happy with a +/-3lb trigger pull, the stock spring will give you that. If your looking for lighter, you can either make a trigger return spring, or you can go the easy route, and buy an AR15 buffer retainer spring https://www.brownells.com/rifle-par.../ar-15-buffer-retainer-springs-prod41423.aspx. This will give you a pull as low as about 2lbs, less than that and youll start to have the trigger actuating before the blades depressed.
I usually prefer to put a light oil on all the moving surfaces of the trigger, spring, and sear, but use a moly grease on the sear engagement surface.
One major drawback of the Amys stock trigger is that there is no easy way to adjust sear engagement. The positive is that they are usually pretty good right out of the box. The most resent rifle i worked on does have some noticeable travel before the break, but its not as long as many other stock triggers ive used.
The last piece were going to work on is the stock.
OPENING UP THE BARREL CHANNEL AND REINFORCING THE STOCK.
assorted sand paper, and round/dowl backer. I usually use a 3/4" backer and 80-120 grit paper.
Something to use to fill the stock forend (and if desired for balance or sound deadining the butt stock. Ive primarily used west systems epoxy, and flame treated the stock before work. This is only because I have it by the gallon. Other epoxy or resin will work just as well....heck i tried spray foam this time lol.
There isnt a lot to do, especially with the newest generation of stock. The older ones Ive filled with epoxy to stiffen them, and usually open the barrel channels for at least a 1/8" gap.
I also like to fill the butt stock with spray foam, as it makes the whole thing less "pongy"
heres some comparison photos of all three generations of stocks (that im aware of), and some of the fill options. I tried spray foam in the barrel channel this time....no idea how well it worked yet.
The only real hand work we need to do on the stock is to open the barrel channel to prevent contact.
Pretty simple, just wrap your heaviest grit paper around your chosen round backer and go to town on the barrel channel.
The only trick is to make sure you use even, and straight pressure both up and down, and back and forth. This will keep your channel from ending up lopsided.
back near the receiver youll likely need to work the channel out by hand.
Once Youve got your barrel channel open to your satisfaction, you can choose to fill the forend, which WILL help stiffen it, but also add weight out front, or you can just trust that there is enough gap to keep it from touching when used from field position.
Ive got pictures and stuff on my phone as noted above, but right now im tired lol (yay grave shift) and ill probably update this a couple times over the next day or three. I just want to get this up now before it gets lost for some reason. Ill also include a couple more posts covering the basic handling of the rifle, upgrades, and other more major/less effective modifications.
I was asked recently to outline the basics for polishing and modifying a Ruger American. Ill cover the relatively easy, and low cost modifications, and provide some info on some of the more expensive options (mostly large part swaps). Everything ill cover here will apply to most other bolt rifles, and the general ideas to any other action types.
Ill also try cover some basic info and comparisons between the American and other like actions.
SMOOTHING OUT THE BOLT.
Tools:
Bench Vice
Split ring pliers
Sand Paper and backers. The backer sizes can vary, I personally like to use as large a backer as will fit in/on my work piece so ill leave that up to you. You could also use fine stones if you have the correct ones. Sandpaper 400-1500 grit (I prefer 3M)
Wedge for compressing the firingpin spring. Not real sure on the exact dimensions needed. Im actually using the wedges that came with my Glades Armor bolt handles.
Punch set
First thing we need to do when working on the bolt is to remove it from the rifle, and disassemble it. I'm gonna assume everyone can clear their rifle, and get the thing out.
To remove the firing pin, we will need to remove the firing pin shroud.
first rotate the firingpin/shourd assembly clockwise, untill the flats on the rear of the firing pin spring stop align with the cams on the firing pin back. Then just wiggle the shroud back and up till its off. the shroud can and will get stuck, so it sometimes takes some finagling.
Now to remove the firing pin, youll need to wedge something into the gap between the firing pin back and the flats of the firing pin stop, but first youll need to open the gap up a bit by either pulling the firing pin back to the rear, or by using a split ring pliers to do the same.
When you put your wedge in, it should be on the flats of the firing pin back, and provide enough distance that the firing pin is now loose in the bolt body.
View attachment 844889
At that this point just pull the whole assembly rearwards while turning it, and you should feel it start to slide back thru the bolt handle (which it goes thru and retains).
There are some good videos on youtube that show the procedure in depth.
Next well remove the extractor. This is both very easy, and upsettingly easy to screw up. What i do is use a punch to push the extractor out, away from the bolt head, while maintaining downward pressure to keep the ball, ans spring from flying out.
After the extactor is removed, you can remove the ball, and spring. Id suggest storing them in zip lock, or some sort of parts container that wont get knocked over.....cause thats a fun parts hunt.
This is the same procedure for most any bolt gun that houses a sliding extractor in a lug. Browning A bolt 2s are noticeably different, but savage, bergara etc are the same.
View attachment 844968
We will also remove the ejector.
It is held in by a roll pin thru the head of the bolt (this pin if not replaced correctly can interfere with the firing pin, so care must be take on reassembly) This requires a small punch, Its the smallest punch in my cheap walmart punch set.
We'll punch the pin out from the side where the pin IS NOT visible. which if i remember correctly is the top of the bolt head.
You dont need to worry about the ejector flying out, as the punch will take the place of the pin as its driven out. When the pins completely out, stash it with your other parts, and carefully, while holding a finger over the bolt face/ejector remove the punch. Then remove the now loose ejector and ejector spring.
View attachment 844971
Reassembly is pretty much these steps in reverse, the only time you can really have an issue is putting the ejector retaining pin into far. It should be just flush with the bolt head on the same side you removed it from.
Actually polishing the bolt is quite easy, and about 1/2 the time of the whole project is taking it apart and cleaning it afterwards.
What i do, as none of my spinny things have a large enough bore to hold the bolt, is simply hold it by the head in one hand, then wrap a piece of good quality 6-800 grip wetted sand paper around the body and hold it with the other. Then just spin it back and forth for a while, alternating which lugs im turning it with so the whole thing gets worked. You can also work the sand paper back and forth lengthwise, but the sanding lines will be more obvious. (if you do this and have a wire wheel, you can use the wheel to burnish the lines away...in fact if your lazy, you can just use the wire wheel to take some of the grit out of the bolt travel with ought ever disassembling).
You can go up as high a grit as you like, as were not trying to completely remove the tooling marks so much as round them over and help them slide nicely.
The other major area to work on is the bolt stop groove, Its wide, deep, and not very well finished. A piece of 400-600grit on some flat stock will polish both the bottom of the groove and a side, or both if your stocks the right size. I dont try to get this perfectly smooth, just remove the heavier tooling marks and get the lines all running the same way. The other areas youll need to focus on are the upper edges of this grove as they often have a sharp "lip" from milling. I brake those at a 45* angle with a small file or my flat stock backed paper.
The last area that can use some attention, tho its not really needed, are the cam surfaces the bolt and firing pin back. I dont use anything heavier than 1500 grit on these, as you really dont want to change the angles, or remove any of the surface hardening. your simply smoothing out any sharp edges or mill marks. Backed on a round, straight stock, or punch its pretty quick and easy.
View attachment 844974
Finally I like the clean the whole thing with brake or carb cleaner, and wipe a thin coat of CLP or other light lube on all the surface in and out. I then reassemble the bolt head, then pin assembly and use a molly grease on the cam surfaces.
The whole process of polishing out the bolt should take about an hour, hour 1/2, start to finish. After youve done one, then about 1/2 that time, as taking it apart and putting it back together is much faster.
Ive taken one of my Americans to the point where you cant fell anything in the bolt travel, but it takes quite a while, and dosent provide enough of an improvement for me to really recommend it unless you really WANT that feel.
This is where youll want to polish the bolt more heavily, untill you cant feel or only lightly feel the milling marks if you run your fingernail down the bolt lengthwise
To do that youll need to also polish the inside of the receiver. To do this I suggest a 3/4" dowel and 800-1500 grit sand paper. Polish, clean, and test, till you get to the feel you want.
SMOOTHING OUT THE TRIGGER.
First step is to remove the trigger assembly, by driving out the two small roll pins that hold the assembly in place.
Once they are out, store them securely, and mount the trigger assembly upside down in a vice.
Next remove the trigger weight adjustment screw and put it with your pins.
Then remove the E clip retaining the trigger pivot pin, the pin, and Id suggest immediately putting them with your other parts as the E clips very easy to lose.
Carefully slide the trigger up and out. The return spring will be pushing on the trigger as it's removed, and it can pop a little, but not enough for it to be a risk of loss. After pulling the trigger pick the return spring out and store it.
Now that the triggers out; remove the pin that holds the trigger blade in, the spring, and then the blade itself, and store them with your other parts (you can polish the blade if you wish, but I don't usually bother).
Polish both sides of the trigger with 800+ grip sand paper. The side with the circles may need a bit more work, as those circles tend to have raised edges. This will smooth out what travel the trigger has.
Now your going to carefully polish the upper, and rear, faces of the triggers sear contact sufrace (top of the trigger). I go straight to 1500-2000grip paper backed by hard material, usually square stock. Again your not trying to change angles, or remove material, all were doing is polishing the contact surfaces. I will take a piece of 800 grit and make a couple passes on the top back edge to break the edge slightly, follow with a few strokes of your 1500 grit.
Once thats cleaned up add it to your parts.
Now flip the trigger housing over, and remove the small roll pin holding the sear down. Once thats out rotate the sear up, and remove the sear return spring. Now pop the E clip from the sear pivot pin, remove and store the lot.
Now remove the only remaining E clip and pin, and store those. This is the only Odd sized pin, and clip so its makes re assembly easy enough you dont really need to worry about mixing up your parts.
To polish the inside of the trigger housing, take your preferred grit of paper (I again use 800-1500), and wrap it around a square backer that fits inside the housing. Polish both sides untill they are smooth, which actually shouldnt take very long.
The last step here is to lightly polish the sears engagement surface with fine sand paper backed with square stock. Again were just smoothing out any rough spots, not changing angles or removing much material. I also give this edge a two or three passes at about 45*
Now again reassembly is pretty much exactly opposite of taking the trigger apart. If your happy with a +/-3lb trigger pull, the stock spring will give you that. If your looking for lighter, you can either make a trigger return spring, or you can go the easy route, and buy an AR15 buffer retainer spring https://www.brownells.com/rifle-par.../ar-15-buffer-retainer-springs-prod41423.aspx. This will give you a pull as low as about 2lbs, less than that and youll start to have the trigger actuating before the blades depressed.
I usually prefer to put a light oil on all the moving surfaces of the trigger, spring, and sear, but use a moly grease on the sear engagement surface.
One major drawback of the Amys stock trigger is that there is no easy way to adjust sear engagement. The positive is that they are usually pretty good right out of the box. The most resent rifle i worked on does have some noticeable travel before the break, but its not as long as many other stock triggers ive used.
The last piece were going to work on is the stock.
OPENING UP THE BARREL CHANNEL AND REINFORCING THE STOCK.
assorted sand paper, and round/dowl backer. I usually use a 3/4" backer and 80-120 grit paper.
Something to use to fill the stock forend (and if desired for balance or sound deadining the butt stock. Ive primarily used west systems epoxy, and flame treated the stock before work. This is only because I have it by the gallon. Other epoxy or resin will work just as well....heck i tried spray foam this time lol.
There isnt a lot to do, especially with the newest generation of stock. The older ones Ive filled with epoxy to stiffen them, and usually open the barrel channels for at least a 1/8" gap.
I also like to fill the butt stock with spray foam, as it makes the whole thing less "pongy"
heres some comparison photos of all three generations of stocks (that im aware of), and some of the fill options. I tried spray foam in the barrel channel this time....no idea how well it worked yet.
The only real hand work we need to do on the stock is to open the barrel channel to prevent contact.
Pretty simple, just wrap your heaviest grit paper around your chosen round backer and go to town on the barrel channel.
The only trick is to make sure you use even, and straight pressure both up and down, and back and forth. This will keep your channel from ending up lopsided.
back near the receiver youll likely need to work the channel out by hand.
Once Youve got your barrel channel open to your satisfaction, you can choose to fill the forend, which WILL help stiffen it, but also add weight out front, or you can just trust that there is enough gap to keep it from touching when used from field position.
Ive got pictures and stuff on my phone as noted above, but right now im tired lol (yay grave shift) and ill probably update this a couple times over the next day or three. I just want to get this up now before it gets lost for some reason. Ill also include a couple more posts covering the basic handling of the rifle, upgrades, and other more major/less effective modifications.
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