@Glock Novice- I'm with you. It ain't gotta be pretty, it just gotta work. I regret having gotten rid of my Blackhawk years ago, but am really enjoying my GP (it's my go-to gun). Only caution I have is to stay away from Blazer aluminum cased ammo. Burnt a line in one chamber on the Blackhawk when a case split. Otherwise you won't go wrong with either gun.
Ruger Blackhawk vs. GP100 reliability
- Thread starter Glock Novice
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To me, the difference between a DA and an SA is in the shooting, both in the accuracy of the first shot and the ease and accuracy of adding a few more as at a running coyote. I'll take an SA and get him on the first shot. You guys have convinced me to replace the Ruger .357 I sold last year. I'll go for the 6 1/2 barrel.
Waywatcher
Member
CraigC said:
This is true.
The crane is the serious weak link on GP100.
Pick the one that "Fits" your hands and your style the best. I happen to prefer Single-Action revolvers....have a 50th Year .357 Blackhawk, a 50th Year Single-Six Convertible, and a glossy stainless 'Sheriff's Model' .357 Vaquero.
Only have 1 double-action revolver.. a .38Spl snubby in a brand ahhhhhh not so well liked Rohm/RG
As to the reliability question, hmmmmm. Your grandchildren MIGHT have to send it in for a tune-up.
The Blackhawk is also offered in the "Convertible" model, factory fitted with the 9MM cylinder
Only have 1 double-action revolver.. a .38Spl snubby in a brand ahhhhhh not so well liked Rohm/RG
As to the reliability question, hmmmmm. Your grandchildren MIGHT have to send it in for a tune-up.
The Blackhawk is also offered in the "Convertible" model, factory fitted with the 9MM cylinder
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Glock Novice
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- Aug 22, 2010
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Blackhawk it is
4.62 inch, stainless, .357, and I'm looking for an extra 9mm cylinder. I'll post pics as soon as I can get my grubby hands on it. Many thanks again for all of the help, sounds as if I might not be the only one fortunate enough to benefit from the great advice offered in this thread.
RaceM-- Thanks for the heads up, I'm definitely going to avoid burning Blazer in my new hogleg. Man, that feels good to write.
This thread already has me thinking about my next purchases: I'm considering a Single Six if I can get a hold of one. I have a feeling my kid brother would be shooting at least as much as I
. I'm still hung up on the GP100, too.
Any recommendations for sturdy grips?
4.62 inch, stainless, .357, and I'm looking for an extra 9mm cylinder. I'll post pics as soon as I can get my grubby hands on it. Many thanks again for all of the help, sounds as if I might not be the only one fortunate enough to benefit from the great advice offered in this thread.
RaceM-- Thanks for the heads up, I'm definitely going to avoid burning Blazer in my new hogleg. Man, that feels good to write.
This thread already has me thinking about my next purchases: I'm considering a Single Six if I can get a hold of one. I have a feeling my kid brother would be shooting at least as much as I
. I'm still hung up on the GP100, too.Any recommendations for sturdy grips?
Yes, that crane is a serious weak link on the GP100. After 100k rounds I'd be reeeel nervous. Make that 150k rounds. C'mon folks. The real decision here is the action. Do you want double action capability or not. If not, get a Blackhawk. Both will last forever. Next thing you know we will be attempting to factor in whether our farmer friend will be shooting into the wind. That will cause backpressure and maybe wear out the barrel at an increased rate.
Jim Watson
Member
A friend wore out a Blackhawk .45 with many, many heavy loads. Ruger overhauled it so cheaply as to make it a non-issue.
I think a GP100 is so sturdy as to make the "weak link" of a hand ejector's crane immaterial.
I would cock the GP for a SA shot at a coyote at 60 yards, but I would value the DA for a shot at a rustler at 6 yards.
I think a GP100 is so sturdy as to make the "weak link" of a hand ejector's crane immaterial.
I would cock the GP for a SA shot at a coyote at 60 yards, but I would value the DA for a shot at a rustler at 6 yards.
Hondo 60
Member
Glock Novice -
The gun for you is the one that fits your hand!
Both guns are rocks that'll last for several generations.
I had a Blackhawk, but I have small hands, so I sold it.
The SAA Colt clones (like Uberti) are about 2/3rds the size of a Blackhawk.
The gun for you is the one that fits your hand!
Both guns are rocks that'll last for several generations.
I had a Blackhawk, but I have small hands, so I sold it.
The SAA Colt clones (like Uberti) are about 2/3rds the size of a Blackhawk.
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
Either will likely outlast most shooters and their children but as I said, academically speaking, the Blackhawk is more robust in every way. As Bowen writes of the Redhawk/Super Redhawk compared to the Blackhawk, the big DA's will handle more pressure but also shoot loose first.
Personally, there's a lot more to it than just what has to happen before I squeeze the trigger.
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Confederate
Member
No...the Blackhawk is not more reliable than the GP-100, or the Security-Six. Reliability has more to do with the tolerances of a revolver, and if both revolvers are built to spec, and most of them are, then you will get equal reliability from both. The Blackhawk is more difficult to load and unload and if you get a high primer that causes a cylinder to bind, you're in a lot more trouble than if you have the same problem in the double-action revolver! Also, if you have other cylinder problems (like having a cartridge split), you won't be able to fix it nearly as easy as you will if it happens in the double-action.
Before buying the GP-100, go to a store and heft it for awhile. Compare it to the Smith 686, which I consider to be a better revolver, and check out a decent used MINT Security-Six, which I think has better balance.
A good .357 should be able to be carried on hiking trails and while camping, which is why I'm not crazy about the GP-100. I like the balance of the 686 and the Security-Six, plus the extra shot of the 686-Plus if you can find one. The extra $$$ is well worth getting a 686 and you can rationalize it by considering the fact that you'll be getting an action job with the 686. Plus the accuracy is a little better with lighter weight bullets in the 686 in my opinion.
Anyway, good luck. Post photos whatever gun you get!
Before buying the GP-100, go to a store and heft it for awhile. Compare it to the Smith 686, which I consider to be a better revolver, and check out a decent used MINT Security-Six, which I think has better balance.
A good .357 should be able to be carried on hiking trails and while camping, which is why I'm not crazy about the GP-100. I like the balance of the 686 and the Security-Six, plus the extra shot of the 686-Plus if you can find one. The extra $$$ is well worth getting a 686 and you can rationalize it by considering the fact that you'll be getting an action job with the 686. Plus the accuracy is a little better with lighter weight bullets in the 686 in my opinion.
Anyway, good luck. Post photos whatever gun you get!
bergmen
Member.
4.62 inch, stainless, .357, and I'm looking for an extra 9mm cylinder. I'll post pics as soon as I can get my grubby hands on it. Many thanks again for all of the help, sounds as if I might not be the only one fortunate enough to benefit from the great advice offered in this thread.
RaceM-- Thanks for the heads up, I'm definitely going to avoid burning Blazer in my new hogleg. Man, that feels good to write.
This thread already has me thinking about my next purchases: I'm considering a Single Six if I can get a hold of one. I have a feeling my kid brother would be shooting at least as much as I
Any recommendations for sturdy grips?
You might as well plan on ending up with all three, you absolutely will not regret it. I started with the Single Six back in 1976, eventually got the Blackhawk (in .45 Colt) and then the GP100.
Love 'em all.
BTW, there are scads of grips for Blackhawks, just do a search. Check out Altamont first, they have gorgeous grips at very reasonable prices.
Here's a rosewood set I got for $38.00:
Dan
Either a Blackhawk or GP100 should last a lifetime. The reliability of a GP100 can potentially be affected by unburned powder residue landing on the inside surface of the extractor star during the reload, which can prevent the extractor from returning fully into position. One of my GP100 sixguns is prone to do this, if I use dirty-burning ammo. Two of my older GP100s have grooves under the extractor t make this event virtually impossible; Ruger discontinued this feature somewhere along the way.
A way to make this malfunction unlikely is to hold the sixgun at an angle while spanking the ejector. If the sixgun is held fully vertical, the extractor acts as a horizontal shelf, directly below the chambers. Wet oil or grease can act to make debris cling to the metal; keep your sixgun dry. Further insurance? An old toothbrush! Savvy sixgunners, back in the day of duty sixguns, learned to keep a toothbrush in a pocket during day-long shooting schools or competitions.
To be clear, I am not picking on the GP100. I had a Redhawk, and at least one S&W revolver, that also had such close tolerances, they would also bind if much unburned powder debris got under the extractor. Obviously, an SA sixgun is immune to this particular issue.
A way to make this malfunction unlikely is to hold the sixgun at an angle while spanking the ejector. If the sixgun is held fully vertical, the extractor acts as a horizontal shelf, directly below the chambers. Wet oil or grease can act to make debris cling to the metal; keep your sixgun dry. Further insurance? An old toothbrush! Savvy sixgunners, back in the day of duty sixguns, learned to keep a toothbrush in a pocket during day-long shooting schools or competitions.
To be clear, I am not picking on the GP100. I had a Redhawk, and at least one S&W revolver, that also had such close tolerances, they would also bind if much unburned powder debris got under the extractor. Obviously, an SA sixgun is immune to this particular issue.
BCRider
Member
A lot of how well you do depends on your natural grip on either gun. I've now got a variety of both SA and DA guns.
For myself the DA grip found on the S&W K frame guns set up with target grips was a natural fit. I held and shot these guns perfectly from the first cylinder worth of shots.
On the other hand learning to grip and shoot the SA "plowshare" style produced a lot of confusion and fumbling before I finally got it right. I do OK with either style now but it did take a fair amount of practice and trying different holds to get consistent with the SA style.
As always YMMV. Lots of folks say that the SA plowshare style grips are the most natural they have held and shot.
"Playing" in CAS events has also gotten me to where I can draw, cock and shoot the SAA style gun quickly. If your farm guard duties could possibly require a fast shot you will want to work on this same sort of practice.
Since you will be carrying in a holster a lot be sure you get a holster which can be cleaned effectively. Grit trapped in the leather itself is the biggest danger to any gun kept in the holster. A flap style that aids in avoiding the grit getting into the holster in the first place might be a good idea. Otherwise a holster which can be wiped and brushed out frequently is a good idea.
For myself the DA grip found on the S&W K frame guns set up with target grips was a natural fit. I held and shot these guns perfectly from the first cylinder worth of shots.
On the other hand learning to grip and shoot the SA "plowshare" style produced a lot of confusion and fumbling before I finally got it right. I do OK with either style now but it did take a fair amount of practice and trying different holds to get consistent with the SA style.
As always YMMV. Lots of folks say that the SA plowshare style grips are the most natural they have held and shot.
"Playing" in CAS events has also gotten me to where I can draw, cock and shoot the SAA style gun quickly. If your farm guard duties could possibly require a fast shot you will want to work on this same sort of practice.
Since you will be carrying in a holster a lot be sure you get a holster which can be cleaned effectively. Grit trapped in the leather itself is the biggest danger to any gun kept in the holster. A flap style that aids in avoiding the grit getting into the holster in the first place might be a good idea. Otherwise a holster which can be wiped and brushed out frequently is a good idea.
Waywatcher
Member
I had one that went wobbly* at 3000 rounds, with 90% of the loads being .38 special.
*Wobbly enough that it started hitting the barrel extension when rotating.
It got replaced with a Blackhawk. The axis of rotation on a SA revolver is a solid piece of steel that goes through the front of the frame and well into the rear. The axis of rotation on a GP100 is a thin hollow tube that is integral to the crane--meaning it is vulnerable whenever the revolver is opened for loading or cleaning.
I have both, and having disassembled both, am much more confident in the structural integrity of the Blackhawk.
I have never heard of that happening before. Certainly not at 3000 rounds. Not saying it didn't, just saying. There are risks in getting up in the morning. If he loads the gun there are risks. However, I believe they are minimal in such hardy guns. He should make his decision on fit and whether or not he wants the double action capability.
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