Ruger DA parts Interchangeability

[Olon]

I'm wondering which (if any) parts are the same between the ruger gp100 and security six. In particular I'm wondering if the hand is the same or close to the same.

The hand on my girlfriend's security six looks slightly bent inwards, making it tough to align with its spot upon reassembly. I need to push it to the right to get it lined up. The action is also quite "chunky." What I mean is the hand almost seems to catch on the two 1/12 turns the cylinder makes when you pull the trigger. I'm thinking this hand being bent might be causing some of that problem.

Edit: by exercising Google-fu, I found one on numrich gun parts so I will additionally ask who has experience with this vendor

 

[Olon]

I'll add that I'm asking because I'm having a hard time finding security six parts.

 

[BBBBill]

Bending the hand to correct timing, particularly on Colts, was/is done when new parts were/are not available. I've not heard of it or done it myself on a Ruger, but see no reason why it won't work if done correctly.
Have you got Kuhnhausen's Ruger Double Action Revolver manual? If not, you need it. Numrich, aka Gun Parts Corp, has been around forever. Most of us who have been fooling with guns for any length of time have used them as a source for parts. Also check with Jack First.

 

[MCFLYFYTER]

I think what you are experiencing is normal, but I will try. The pawl (hand) will tilt inward, this is normal. Once the trigger guard assembly is snapped into place, the pawl will typically not be lined up with the slot until the trigger is pulled, then it should magically slip into place. You can install the trigger guard without the transfer bar so you have a better view of the pawl.

As far as this:
"The action is also quite "chunky." What I mean is the hand almost seems to catch on the two 1/12 turns the cylinder makes when you pull the trigger."
I am struggling to understand what you mean. Does it feel ok without the hammer installed? If not, does it feel ok without the bolt installed? What if you add the hammer back in. You get the idea. Most of the trigger pull issues I've seen with these are bolt/reset problems from being worn out.

 

[Olon]

I think what you are experiencing is normal, but I will try. The pawl (hand) will tilt inward, this is normal. Once the trigger guard assembly is snapped into place, the pawl will typically not be lined up with the slot until the trigger is pulled, then it should magically slip into place. You can install the trigger guard without the transfer bar so you have a better view of the pawl.

As far as this:
"The action is also quite "chunky." What I mean is the hand almost seems to catch on the two 1/12 turns the cylinder makes when you pull the trigger."
I am struggling to understand what you mean. Does it feel ok without the hammer installed? If not, does it feel ok without the bolt installed? What if you add the hammer back in. You get the idea. Most of the trigger pull issues I've seen with these are bolt/reset problems from being worn out.

Sounds like I may be chasing the wind and all it really needs is more shooting.

Felt great with just the trigger assy. and also with the bolt installed. I guess logic would dictate that if there's indeed a problem it has something to do with the mainspring.

It's not egregiously bad but it sure ain't a smith and wesson.

 

[MCFLYFYTER]

What condition is it in? Can you describe what the trigger feels like in relation to hammer position?

 

[BBBBill]

Despite the naysayers I've never found it difficult to tune a Six series Ruger to have a really nice trigger action. It is all attention to detail.

 

[MCFLYFYTER]

Despite the naysayers I've never found it difficult to tune a Six series Ruger to have a really nice trigger action. It is all attention to detail.

What do you charge?

 

[Olon]

What condition is it in? Can you describe what the trigger feels like in relation to hammer position?

Used, dropped on concrete once but other than that looks well taken care of. The lockup is really good and the endshake is barely perceptible.

Hammer down

First "wall" I'm noticing


Second "wall" which is only noticeable when pulling slowly in da. Just before hammer is released

 

[Olon]

I put a little oil on the spring guide where it goes through its slot and some on the other end where it touches the hammer and it helped a bit but it's still not that smooth.

Edit: after giving it time to spread around it's a lot better. Maybe I should check the end of that rod for any burrs that could be catching.

 

[BBBBill]

What do you charge?

I no longer have an FFL, so I can do no work for customers.