Ruger Mark II trigger

[ArmedBear]

Anyone had a Ruger Mark II trigger job done?

What about a Volquartsen kit?

Anything else?

I have a Mark II Target with a scope on it, for bullseye matches, and I'd like a light, short, crisp trigger pull.

I'd appreciate hearing about others' experiences.

Thanks

 

[Vern Humphrey]

I have found the biggest problem with Ruger triggers is the backlash. There are two cures for that. One is to strip down the gun and drill and tap the trigger blade and install an allen screw. Adjust the screw so it touches the frame just as the sear releases, then file it flush and loctite it.

A simpler, cheaper method -- one that even a fumblefingers like me can use -- is to get some Mole Foam <tm> in the foot care department of your local drugstore or Wal Mart. Cut a pad of that and stick it on the backstrap, and adjust it until it stops the trigger as the sear releases.

You can also get a spring kit from Wolff that will go a long way toward producing a lighter pull.

 

[ArmedBear]

I didn't know you could replace the springs. The Wolff set did wonders for my Uberti single action trigger.

My 22/45 is well broken-in. It has a much better trigger pull. That's why I was thinking that a trigger job would be a good thing.

Stopping the trigger when it releases the sear is something I'd planned to do. Good idea re the Mole stuff. Even if it's temporary, I can see if I like it that way.

Thanks!

 

[Dienekes]

I put a Volquartsen hammer and sear kit into an older std. auto (pre Mk. III) after failing to get the pull where I wanted it myself. I had previously done two myself but the third time was not the charm.

Worked out nicely. I just prefer the Clark steel trigger so put that in. A bit tricky but doable, and much improved. I would recommend it.

 

[gb6491]

MKIIs with factory adjustable sights came with an overtravel adjustable trigger.
It's not the easiest to adjust by any means, but it's there if you want to try. Here's the procedure: http://www.geocities.com/felixthefish.geo/mkii_overtravel.html
Regards,
Greg

 

[PO2Hammer]

I installed a VQ sear and target trigger with stops on my Mk II. I need to install a VQ hammer or reduce the notch on the stock hammer because the creep is still there, controlled mostly by the depth of the hammer notch.

The take up slack cannot be completly adjusted out with the trigger set screws. You have to leave some slack for the trigger to reset.

I guess If I were doing it over I'd get the whole VQ kit from the start.

 

[JohnBT]

I had a 22/45 trigger job done by Ruger when I sent my early production gun back for feeding problems. I didn't specifically ask for it, but mentioned in my letter that the trigger wasn't nearly as nice as my '72 Single-Six or '85 Police Service.

The receipt, marked no charge, stated 40-ounce trigger pull. Man was it ever crisp, too.

How nice was it? The owner of a small gun store gave me more for it on a trade than I'd paid for it retail at a high-priced megastore. I guess I just like revolvers more.

John

 

[tlen]

I'd installed only a VQ trigger & sear. Got my MKIII trigger pull down to a crisp 29-30 ounces. I shoot 50 yard plates with it.
http://www.guntalk-online.com/service.html

 

[LightningMan]

PO2Hammer quote; I installed a VQ sear and target trigger with stops on my Mk II. I need to install a VQ hammer or reduce the notch on the stock hammer because the creep is still there, controlled mostly by the depth of the hammer notch.
The take up slack cannot be completly adjusted out with the trigger set screws. You have to leave some slack for the trigger to reset.
I guess If I were doing it over I'd get the whole VQ kit from the start.

Hammer I installed a VQ accurizing kit in my MKIII and that kit came with the hammer, trigger, sear, plunger-spring, and bolt reliease. After I installed it even with the new hammer my gun still had more creep than I cared for, so I took off about .010 off the surface of the hammer notch, now it's much better. LM