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Ruger Marlin 336 Is Here

I wasn't clear in that post. A lot of what made Marlin great back in the day is they were a lot cheaper than the Henrys and Winchesters. You basically got Henry quality at Rossi prices from the CT made Marlins. Now that everything has gone up, Henry and Ruger are about the same as you pointed out. Marlin was the budget lever action to Henry, making Ruger/Marlin not the budget rifle anymore was my point.

My next lever action is going to be a shootable (non-safe queen) 30-30 or 45-70. It is really a toss up at this point if it will be a Henry or Marlin. Time and my wallet will tell.

The faux "Henry" company came into being in 1996. Back in the day, at least for me is long before "Henry" existed. The CBS was added to Marlin rifles in 1982 I think it was. Without a time machine I do not see how Henry could have competed with Marlin. Remington purchased Marlin in 2007. Ruger purchased the bones of Marlin, mostly the IP, from Remington in September of 2020.

Lots of rifles if not most have safeties of some sort. Guys with ARs, your rifles do not have safeties? Your bolt guns no safety? Unlike the lawyer inspired transfer bar rebounding hammer of the "Henry" the Marlin CBS can be entirely removed with no adverse affects. Or made inoperable. Just pull the butt stock and look up inside on the right side, there is a little screw, turn it in with the safety in the fire position and it will remain there. Then put a little O-ring on the CBS groove that is painted red and you are done. There are also at least three different kits to replace the CBS with a screw like piece or make your own. I have seen a couple of home versions that were machined so perfectly that they were invisible once pressed into position. How would you remove the transfer bar rebounding hammer from a "Henry" and convert to half cock as the only safety? Or just learn how to use the rifles as they were built.

Just me, I doubt I will need to worry again, but I would not want a transfer bar between my hammer and a charging griz.
 
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It's an older JM model.

I've actually been thinking of having it re-bored/chambered to 360 Buckhammer.
Do you think the 336 will handle 50K pressure? I would like to make this change myself but I am concerned about the pressure.
 
Do you think the 336 will handle 50K pressure? I would like to make this change myself but I am concerned about the pressure.
I've done zero research, so I have no idea. I probably will end up with a Buckhammer but at this point I have no idea how I will get there.

I have zero money into my 336, so that's why I was thinking of starting there.

DM
 
Is it just me, or is Ruger staining their stocks AFTER checkering? See Mini30SS's post #28. That is how a checkered stock is supposed to look. Ruger's checkering is unwelcome at my house. If you're not going to do it right, leave it off. And the price? Why would anyone buy a reman when originals are available for less? And a safety? I must leave; I'm not feeling well
 
Lots of love for old Marlins. I am going to claim, JM Marlin did build turkeys.

My JM Marlin 336

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I measured the bullet jump to the throat when I finally decided to find how much out I should set the bullet. What a surprise to find that the bullet had to jump a half inch before it encountered rifling!.. Really explains why this rifle pukes cast bullets. Bullets cannot be seated to the throat and a loaded round ejected, because the round is too long for the ejection port.

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Before a goo goo eyed buyer purchases a used Marlin, it might be a good idea to take the breechbolt out and look up the tube.

This rifle will shoot around 3 MOA out to 200 yards with jacketed bullets. And that is about all it will do.

CgUM9HF.jpg
 
The microgroove barrels were specifically made to shoot jacketed bullets. Accurately. Your experience is not uncommon. Did you have gas-checks at the base of your leadheads?

Also, with sporting lever action rifles - groups are usually measured in groups of three. Three shots is usually All you need to down your animal.

After 3 shots, traditionally made lever actions like the Marlin 336, and Winchester 94 will start to heat string the shots. Remember, these are hunting rifles, not military guns.
 
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Remember, these are hunting rifles
This.
I have Remlin. Have all the equipment, components, experience, time and , well, maybe some of the knowledge involved in tailoring handloads to a specific rifle.Take some pride in it as well. Kinda like catching a nice fish on a fly you tied.
Problem is the darn thing just hammers factory 170 Corelokts into three leaf clovers.
The wood does kind of fit crappy back of the receiver though.
 
This.
I have Remlin. Have all the equipment, components, experience, time and , well, maybe some of the knowledge involved in tailoring handloads to a specific rifle.Take some pride in it as well. Kinda like catching a nice fish on a fly you tied.
Problem is the darn thing just hammers factory 170 Corelokts into three leaf clovers.
The wood does kind of fit crappy back of the receiver though.

Yeah, I know what you mean. No fun at all because my JM pre CBS Texan and my Rem-Marlin 336SS both will shoot those darn 170 grain Corelokts into cloverleafs regularly enough to be boring and no fun at all. And they will both do the same with the HLR 160FTX. The Texan slightly prefers the 170s and the SS slightly prefers the 165FTX. But, adios my MG amigo, you had your day in the sun.
 
How would you remove the transfer bar rebounding hammer from a "Henry" and convert to half cock as the only safety? Or just learn how to use the rifles as they were built.

Just me, I doubt I will need to worry again, but I would not want a transfer bar between my hammer and a charging griz.

I've never had a misfire in any of my Henry's that were caused by the hammer transfer bar safety.

Half cock isn't necessary because they firing pin can't be activated unless the hammer is pulled back. No need to remove a cross bolt and buy a plug to put in.

They're really awesome, I don't understand why you're hung up on the hammer safety Henry uses.
 
I've never had a misfire in any of my Henry's that were caused by the hammer transfer bar safety.

Half cock isn't necessary because they firing pin can't be activated unless the hammer is pulled back. No need to remove a cross bolt and buy a plug to put in.

They're really awesome, I don't understand why you're hung up on the hammer safety Henry uses.

Just as some folks, and perhaps yourself, are hung up on the CBS, I am even more hung up on the lack of a traditional half cock and the rebounding transfer bar safety mechanism that lawyers apparently insisted upon at the Henry company. I just find the Henry ugly and I prefer stainless which Henry uses chrome plating. Further, adding a side gate is nice but then why have a removable mag tube that could fall out at the worst possible moment. Yes, I am hung up on that. The Henry just does not make the grade for a do or die rifle IMO. It is an opinion and just as some will never give the CBS a rest, I am not likely to give my stated issues with the Henry a pass either. I prefer a Marlin, any Marlin, with or without the CBS, JM, Rem, Ruger, any.
 
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saw a few of the new marlins on the auction site. buy it now prices were over two grand lol.
.... btw i like a cross bolt safety. we live in a unload and reload to transport to use firearms time frame, even though we pretend with our last century or so minds.
 
Yeah, I just can't get used to rebounding hammers on a lever action, wether it be a Henry, or the Japanese Winchester.

The last good Winchesters were the Japanese Browning Winchester reproductions. I have a Browning model 71 high grade carbine that will stay in the family, hopefully for generations.
 
Just as some folks, and perhaps yourself, are hung up on the CBS, I am even more hung up on the lack of a traditional half cock and the rebounding transfer bar safety mechanism that lawyers apparently insisted upon at the Henry company. I just find the Henry ugly and I prefer stainless which Henry uses chrome plating. Further, adding a side gate is nice but then why have a removable mag tube that could fall out at the worst possible moment. Yes, I am hung up on that. The Henry just does not make the grade for a do or die rifle IMO. It is an opinion and just as some will never give the CBS a rest, I am not likely to give my stated issues with the Henry a pass either. I prefer a Marlin, any Marlin, with or without the CBS, JM, Rem, Ruger, any.


I'm not hung up on any Marlin, I've just never had a chance to buy one since they're, ya know, not really in stores.

Aesthetics aside, there's nothing about Henry's features that make for a less reliable firearm. The mag tube issue is another one that puzzles me. There's no way it's falling out assuming the owner takes good care of the rifle and as you said, knows how to operate it correctly.

I really think if you had one (which maybe you have, I dunno) that it would grow on you.

I'll give a Ruger made Marlin a go if they can get them in stores for $1100 or less out the door.
 
Do you think the 336 will handle 50K pressure? I would like to make this change myself but I am concerned about the pressure.
In a word no not 50k. I think 45k maybe but 5” would be pushing it even with modern steels.
 
I'm not hung up on any Marlin, I've just never had a chance to buy one since they're, ya know, not really in stores.

Aesthetics aside, there's nothing about Henry's features that make for a less reliable firearm. The mag tube issue is another one that puzzles me. There's no way it's falling out assuming the owner takes good care of the rifle and as you said, knows how to operate it correctly.

I really think if you had one (which maybe you have, I dunno) that it would grow on you.

I'll give a Ruger made Marlin a go if they can get them in stores for $1100 or less out the door.

I agree, the magazine coming apart is the silliest argument I’ve ever heard. I’ve yet to experience, see, or hear about a real life example of the magazine cap coming off randomly. It’s far easier to accidentally drop a handgun magazine, and yet these are the primary firearms used for personal defense.
 
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