pdt203
Member
Anybody use/own a Ruger No.1? I'm thinking about getting on for my daughter when she shoots a deer.
Thanks!
Johnny in Huntsville
Thanks!
Johnny in Huntsville
Ruger No 1 Single Shot Rifle
- Thread starter pdt203
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El Tejon
Member
Excellent weapon for the money. I like the comb, but LOP is goofy long as are most American weapons. Have it cut waaaay down and get nice recoil pad, trigger job, crown it and should be fine with load experimentation.
rock jock
Member
Use the search feature. You will find lots of good info on them. I have a No. 1B in .243 and like it lots. I did quite a bit of reading on them before I bought. Apparently, the two-piece stock, though it looks good, adversely affects accuracy. Mine would only get 3-4 MOA when I bought it. I followed the suggestion of a few others and put an o-ring under the foreend screw between the screw and the barrel. It effectively floated the barrel and improved accuracy to about 1.5 MOA. The looks and style of the rifle are classic and will make you (or your daughter) a standout to others with their bolt-actions. A single shot rifle, IMO, says that this person has taken the time to learn to shoot and has confidence that they won't need a followup shot on a wounded animal.
fallingblock
Member
As coincidence would have it.....
I also am preparing to order a Ruger #1.
Does anyone have first-hand experience with the stainless steel models?
.45/70 is my caliber choice, with perhaps a NECG receiver sight (they mount on the rear scope mount).
Anyone used one of these sights?
I also am preparing to order a Ruger #1.
Does anyone have first-hand experience with the stainless steel models?
.45/70 is my caliber choice, with perhaps a NECG receiver sight (they mount on the rear scope mount).
Anyone used one of these sights?
James Bondrock
Member
I have a Ruger No. 1. It is the 1A "Light Sporter" version, in .30-06. This has a 22-inch barrel with the front sling swivel on the barrel, a shortened rounded forend (called a "Henry" IIRC), and iron sights with the rear sight mounted on a quarter rib (which also has cutouts for Ruger scope rings) atop the receiver. Fold the rear sight down if you want to mount a scope. My scope is a Burris Signature 1.5-6X; I use Ruger rings with an offset to the rear, as the scope was a little too far forward with standard rings.
Tamara
Senior Member
I have a No.1 RSI in .243. Contrary to all logic, it's plenty durn accurate enough, and even had a pretty decent trigger out of the box. With the 12x Leupold on it and my substandard skills at the trigger, if an evil tennis ball rears its fanged snout inside of 300 yards, it's mine. 
stevelyn
Member
My gf bought me a #1 RSI in .30-06 for Xmas a couple years ago and got a moose with it last year. It fits me very well dimension wise and is as accurate as I'll ever be able to hold it. Bench sessions are short though. Shooting Federal High Energy loads turns it into a meat tenderizer.
critter
Member
I have a Ruger #1 in 45-70 with which I just took a 165# 7-pt whitetail on opening day of deer season in AR (last Sat). (300 Gr Rem JHP over a bunch of IMR 4198) Obviously, I am well pleased with it. Like all long guns, they have individual idiosyncracies that must be delt with. They are, however, great guns!
Fallingblock, so as not to hijack the thread, please e-mail me at [email protected]. Thanks.
Fallingblock, so as not to hijack the thread, please e-mail me at [email protected]. Thanks.
retiredsgt
Member
Ruger No.1
It is hard to beat a No.1. I have several, and all are MOA shooters. I also reload, but they were not that hard to shrink their groups. I purchased a used No.S in 45/70 that I shall use this year to take a deer. The latest aquisition was a used No.1V in .223Rem. I am working to get the group down to 1/2" at 100 yds.
Yeah, you hear all types of stories, but I believe that the No.1's made in the last 8 or so years are really shooters. I bought a used No.1V in 6mm, many years back. The gun was made in 1982. This shoots a 1/2" ragged hole at 100 yds. With the 85 gr. Sierra, it does a job on whitetail.
pdt203-Why not buy two-one for your daughter in 6MM, and one for yourself in .270 Win.??Gooid shooting!
It is hard to beat a No.1. I have several, and all are MOA shooters. I also reload, but they were not that hard to shrink their groups. I purchased a used No.S in 45/70 that I shall use this year to take a deer. The latest aquisition was a used No.1V in .223Rem. I am working to get the group down to 1/2" at 100 yds.
Yeah, you hear all types of stories, but I believe that the No.1's made in the last 8 or so years are really shooters. I bought a used No.1V in 6mm, many years back. The gun was made in 1982. This shoots a 1/2" ragged hole at 100 yds. With the 85 gr. Sierra, it does a job on whitetail.
pdt203-Why not buy two-one for your daughter in 6MM, and one for yourself in .270 Win.??Gooid shooting!
Snake Jenkins
Member
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2002
- Messages
- 57
I've got 3 Ruger #1's, two are #1B's chambered in .25-06 and .280 Ackley Improved and a #1 Tropical chambered in .375 H&H maggie. My next project gun is going to be a custom built #1 chambered in 6.5x55 Swede.
Snake
Snake
2 things to watch out for w/Ruger #1s.
1. The way the forearm is hung on the action is odd & can cause a big accuracy drop off. You may need to freefloat the barrel in the forearm.
2. See if you can find a two piece Ruger scope base. The one piece ones can heat unevenly with the barrel heating ( one end is mounted right up adjacent to the barrel), thus causing your scope to shift slightly and irregularly as the metal expands and contracts.
1. The way the forearm is hung on the action is odd & can cause a big accuracy drop off. You may need to freefloat the barrel in the forearm.
2. See if you can find a two piece Ruger scope base. The one piece ones can heat unevenly with the barrel heating ( one end is mounted right up adjacent to the barrel), thus causing your scope to shift slightly and irregularly as the metal expands and contracts.
CARSON
Member
I have a #1V in 22-250 that shoots .42 inch three shot groups at 100 yards (55 grain C/T Ballistic Silvertip on top of IMR 4064). I bought it used without a mark on it and I do not think I would ever sell it, it shoots too well. I am actually putting better glass on it now.
I would but another one in an instant over any other single shot. I was thinking of selling it to buy a T/C Encore, but could not do it when I viewed how much better the quality of the wood was on it.
I would but another one in an instant over any other single shot. I was thinking of selling it to buy a T/C Encore, but could not do it when I viewed how much better the quality of the wood was on it.
Black Snowman
Member
I have a Browning High-Wall in .30-06 that is capable of .5" groups at 100 yards. I feel it's superior in quality and accuracy to most of the out-of-box Ruger #1s but it's pricey.
For a good single shot that can take being beat around the woods that's inexpensive but still accurate you might look into a NEF Handi Rifle single shot.
Nothing against the Rugers as firearms but the companies policies and advertising have kinda ticked me off.
For a good single shot that can take being beat around the woods that's inexpensive but still accurate you might look into a NEF Handi Rifle single shot.
Nothing against the Rugers as firearms but the companies policies and advertising have kinda ticked me off.
cdbeaver
Member
I've had a Ruger no. 1V chambered in .22-250 for a little over a year now, and it's a fine rifle . . . but it does have its deficiencies.
No. 1 problem would be the trigger. It was an abomination until I had it replaced with a Moyers custom trigger. Gunsmith installed it because I'm such a clutz.
No. 2 problem with my rifle was an egg-shaped chamber. Fired, but neck-sized, cases would not re-enter the chamber unless that case was oriented exactly the way it was when fired.
No. 3 problem is Ruger itself.
With all that said, I must admit the sucker can shoot. Under half-inch 3-shot groups at a hundred yards. It's a prairie dog's worst enemy.
No. 1 problem would be the trigger. It was an abomination until I had it replaced with a Moyers custom trigger. Gunsmith installed it because I'm such a clutz.
No. 2 problem with my rifle was an egg-shaped chamber. Fired, but neck-sized, cases would not re-enter the chamber unless that case was oriented exactly the way it was when fired.
No. 3 problem is Ruger itself.
With all that said, I must admit the sucker can shoot. Under half-inch 3-shot groups at a hundred yards. It's a prairie dog's worst enemy.
JohnBT
Member
Re: problem with Ruger. You mean the thing about...
No honest man needs more than one round.
JT
No honest man needs more than one round.
JT
The preceeding is my #1V in .22-250. Those are 3 consecutive five shot groups at 100 yards .
Quick words on the #1:
1. the #1B and #1V seem to be the most consistently accurate. Something to do with those medium weight, straight tapered barrels. .243's and 6mm always seem to shoot very well in them.
2. The ones with bands on the barrels are often more tempremental, but also can shoot well.
3. If you find a used one, check to see if anyone has been whittling on the foreend. If so, expect a challenge getting it to shoot well.
4. Before whittling on gun, or trying to re-engineer Bill & Len's masterpiece, try handloading and different benchrest techniques, first. Like any gun with a pressure bedded barrel, they are sensitive to how they are held on the bench.
5. I too have heard the late models shoot well. I for one want a .45-70.
The above experience is based on owning four, and having loaded for three others. They are special rifles. Of my four, only the .375 H&H won't stay under an inch at 100 yards, and I think a better scope and a better shooter would solve that problem.
I still remember one that got away, a #1B .220 Swift that I saw in San Angelo, TX 12 or so years ago. Full figured buttstock and foreend, simply gorgeous, even better than the one above. If that owner happens to be reading this, I will give your Swift a good home, and make it dance
.Quick words on the #1:
1. the #1B and #1V seem to be the most consistently accurate. Something to do with those medium weight, straight tapered barrels. .243's and 6mm always seem to shoot very well in them.
2. The ones with bands on the barrels are often more tempremental, but also can shoot well.
3. If you find a used one, check to see if anyone has been whittling on the foreend. If so, expect a challenge getting it to shoot well.
4. Before whittling on gun, or trying to re-engineer Bill & Len's masterpiece, try handloading and different benchrest techniques, first. Like any gun with a pressure bedded barrel, they are sensitive to how they are held on the bench.
5. I too have heard the late models shoot well. I for one want a .45-70.
The above experience is based on owning four, and having loaded for three others. They are special rifles. Of my four, only the .375 H&H won't stay under an inch at 100 yards, and I think a better scope and a better shooter would solve that problem.
I still remember one that got away, a #1B .220 Swift that I saw in San Angelo, TX 12 or so years ago. Full figured buttstock and foreend, simply gorgeous, even better than the one above. If that owner happens to be reading this, I will give your Swift a good home, and make it dance
fallingblock
Member
Thanks for all the input......
I'll let you know how the .45/70 shoots when it arrives.
Unfortunately, here in Australia it will take three months minimum .
Customs inspects and fires each incoming firearm, and then the paperwork filters through.
I'll let you know how the .45/70 shoots when it arrives.
Unfortunately, here in Australia it will take three months minimum
.Customs inspects and fires each incoming firearm, and then the paperwork filters through.
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