Ruger No. 1 single-shot rifles,,,

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aarondhgraham

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Ruger #1 single-shot rifles,,,
Are they really worth the money?

I am a lover of single-shot rifles,,,
There is something soothing about leisurely shooting,,,
My favorites are a Henry Acu-bolt, an H&R Sportster, and an H&R Handi-rifle.

I occasionally shoot clays with some friends,,,
They always rag on me about my old H&R 20 gauge.

I think the only thing I might like better,,,
Would be a double-rifle shooting,,,
an affordable cartridge.

I have always admired the aesthetic beauty of the Ruger #1 rifles,,,
But the unbelievable cost has prevented me from buying one.

Right now their website shows a MSRP of $1,399.00,,, :what:
What could possibly make them worth that amount?

Quite frankly,,,
If I were to spend that amount of money,,,
The experience of shooting that gun would have to be, well, orgasmic. :eek:

So honestly, what makes those guns so costly,,,
Are they absolute tack drivers?
Do they guarantee a hit?

Are they handmade by vestal virgins?

I would love to know the true skinny about them.

Any No. 1 owners care to wax eloquent about their rifles?

Aarond

.
 
Only reference I know of attesting to the rifle is its infamous use in 1984 by serial-murderer Michael Silka. In his final showdown, Silka, a Vietnam veteran, used the Model 1 in .30-06 to kill Trooper Troy Duncan, who was aboard an airborne helicopter that had been sent to interdict him near Hot Manley Springs. He was cut down by Duncan's partner, Jeffrey Hall, using an M16. Hall was also a Vietnam veteran.

Silka was reportedly so skilled with shooting and loading the single-shot weapon that it could sometimes be mistaken for a repeater.

Read more here:

http://murderpedia.org/male.S/s/silka-michael.htm

(This contains a firsthand account written by Trooper Hall.)
 
They are among the most beautiful of rifles to me. I have owned a couple but they were just not as accurate as I like. I tried, believe me, I just couldn't get them to shoot as good as they looked.
 
Ruger No. 1

Dont buy a #1 if you want accuracy. Zeke/Pa Had 3 in heavy bbls, 2 in 22-250 the other in 243win. I reload & know how to shoot. Shooting 5 shot group will produce larger groups, so take an average. Shoot 5x4 for a 20 shot average, see what u get. The 243 was bedded and worked on a lot. 1 1/4" @ 100 yds is not acceptable. Just my personal experence.
 
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Wow, those weren't the type of replies I was expecting,,,

Wow, those weren't the type of replies I was expecting,,,
I mean to say I am glad to hear truthful comments,,,
I was expecting them to be more positive in nature.

So can I assume their being made by a Vestal Sisterhood is a fantasy as well?

~sigh~

That's a sad thing for me,,,
I was hoping to be talked into saving for one.

I wonder, what chambering might have been the most accurate?

I've always thought a N0.1 in 45-70 would be a formidable rifle.

My H&R Handi-Rifle is chambered for .357 Magnum,,,
It's about 2+ MOA with 125 grain HP's,,,
But it only cost me $279.00,,,
Plus $150.00 for glass.

How do the No. 1 rifles compare with that,,,
Are they better or worse.

Aarond

.
 
Desire is the price setter above all else.

They're heavy, yet very handy. Accuracy is mostly average. Factory trigger is so so at best. Unique among all modern rifles comes mind, Expensive, beautiful, limited, legendary.

In the end there is no vestal virgin magic. In fact, they are just not everyone's cup of tea. Yet, they will always have a transcendent allure for me. Unquestionably understated....perfectly... like no other. A masterpiece of modern production with a pleasant agreement of days long past. It has more to do with the art of the rifle than the act of the rifle. It may not be perfect for what it does but it is perfect in how it does.
 
Let me go against the grain a little here. I have two No.1s, 300 Win. Mag and 7mm08, I have had good accuracy out of both, I hand load, I can find a load that works well in the rifles. I love the No.1s, I like the lines of the rifle and the way they handle. I think the No.1 is kind of the 1911 of rifles. It is a classic, with its own semi cult following, some are great, some need a little work. Handle one shoot it if you can. You will know then if you like them or not.
 
I understand they're something of a blunt instrument, much like other Ruger products, but made very well. Just not exceedingly well (the nicest thing Ruger makes, though). I was mildly impressed handling the only one I've come across, a like-new model in some obscure caliber the LGS had one day. It must have been a field grade, or something, because seemed fairly run of the mill as far as the woodgrain and stock-inletting. At 1500$ it seemed of similar quality to a low-end-but-decent o/u shotgun, so not a particularly good deal. The fancy grade ones, or those customized into target guns by wildcatters, are definitely quite special, though.

TCB
 
aarondhgraham said:
What could possibly make them worth that amount?

...So honestly, what makes those guns so costly,,,
Click to expand...
barnbwt said:
It must have been a field grade, or something, because seemed fairly run of the mill as far as the woodgrain and stock-inletting. At 1500$ it seemed of similar quality to a low-end-but-decent o/u shotgun, so not a particularly good deal.
Click to expand...
I found both of these post a bit amusing. The #1 was conceived, as are most Rugers, as an affordable entry level single shot rifle in the style of the classic single shots that Bill Ruger loved so much.

In an American rifle, I'm partial to the old Browning 97...but it never came in calibers I cared for.

Back in my youth, I always wanted a Ruger #1 in .375 H&H and another in 6.5x55mm
 
Guess I'm going against the grain too . Ruger # 1's occasionally show up used. They are normally owned by folks that appreciate their aesthetics and tend to take great care of them , so when a used one shows up in a pawn shop or a LGS it usually is in good shape. I got mine 3 years ago used for $ 550 out the door. ( I can't imagine dropping $1500 )

It was obviously a 30-06 safe queen. The only wear that could be seen was to the butt pad where it had worn a little against the carpet on the floor of the previous owners safe. Despite my friend at the LGS telling me that the #1's sometimes had stringing issues I couldn't leave it there.;)

It is very accurate with two different factory loads. I have not shot it past 300 yet , because that is the longest range near me however it is MOA out to that distance. ( that makes it an easy sub Minute of Whitetail rifle ;) ) The previous owner ( gun was made in 1988 ) could have had any issues fixed as I'm certain the trigger has been worked on. ( it breaks at 3 lbs )

There was a link posted on a thread here last year with instructions on how to resolve the stringing issues if your #1 has any ? If I can find it I will repost it.

If I could justify owning one in another caliber I would be all over it.

Tentwing
 
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I was able to find the post , but I couldn't figure out how to make a link to it, so I just did a cut and paste to this post.

Hope this helps, Tentwing


Accurizing The Ruger #1
By SingleShotLover

I
If ever there is a case to be made for a "modern classic", the Ruger #1 certainly fits the bill. This creation of William Ruger draws strongly from the famous Farquharson patent action of the late 1800s. Combined with today's manufacturing techniques and materials, the Ruger #1 is a wonder of grace, elegance and strength. The only strike against it is*the rumor of having a*reputation for relative inaccuracy as a result of*"stringing" shots in groups. This rumor is greatly exaggerated, but the fact remains that there are rifles with this trait.
*
For those not familiar with this great rifle, a little background is in order:
*
The Ruger #1 was designed in the early 60s by Bill Ruger and is a single-shot, falling-black design. Operating the under-lever drops the breech block ejecting any fired round and*exposing the chamber. Once a cartridge is inserted the lever is returned to the rear and the breech block locks firmly in place enclosing the round and leaving the internal hammer cocked. The safety is of the*tang mounted "shotgun" style. The short receiver, typical of most single shots, creates a much shorter over-all length than a bolt action rifle with a comparable barrel length. For all practical purposes, a 26" barreled #1 measures about the same length as a 22" barreled bolt-action.
*
The accuracy issue can be traced to an innovative*design feature that Bill Ruger incorporated into his original plan. The forearm and mainspring are attached to an extended hanger protruding from the front of the receiver. With the forearm, spring, and hanger in contact, upon firing, all parts try to vibrate at a different rate. Since this rate is uncontrolled it can not be duplicated from shot to shot. This of course means that*each bullet leaves the bore at a slightly different angle and results in either vertical or horizontal stringing of groups, depending on the particular rifle. The cure is to dampen this vibration scenario and provide a bit of needed barrel support.
*
The good news is that this can be easily corrected in one of three ways:
*
The first method is to install a Hicks Accurizer (Brownell's) that attaches to the front of the hanger and adjusts the barrel/hanger tension by means of a tensioning screw. Installation is relatively easy, but a fair amount of inletting of the forearm and glass bedding is required.
*
The second method requires either the services of a gunsmith or machinist to drill and tap the hanger just in front of the mainspring retainer. An 8/32*set-screw is screwed into the resulting hole to contact a small steel pad placed against the barrel. By careful adjustment, the optimum tension setting for a particular rifle can be found. Again, glass bedding is essential.
*
The third method is a result of both my habit of trying things for myself and not having access to a gunsmith that I trust with my rifles. This method only requires a selection of small steel nuts or shims the approximating the*width of the hanger and of varying thickness. By wedging a shim of the appropriate thickness to create the required tension between the hanger and the barrel, accuracy is enhanced immensely. This method is cheap, easy for the average gun-owner to perform, requires no permanent alterations to the rifle (other than bedding) and works perfectly.
*
It is this third*method we will address:
*
The first step, as in all work with a firearm, is to make 100% sure that the rifle is unloaded!
*
Next, remove the forearm while*being sure not to lose the forearm take-down nut. (See Figure 1)
Using a wide-bladed screwdriver (wrap the blade area with tape to protect the rifle's finish), gently spring the hanger away from the barrel. Insert a shim to create a tension wedge (Figure 1) exerting enough tension to hold it firmly when you allow the hanger to return to its former location. This additional tension will hold your shim without fear of movement.
*
How thick should the shim be? Only you can determine that for your particular rifle. I always start with a thickness*that*springs the hanger enough to create a gap about .052" (about the thickness of a dime) more than it originally was and use thicker shims if shooting shows that they are needed. This thickness also generally creates the proper clearance between the barrel and the forearm.
*
An easy way to tell is to shoot the rifle without the forearm and try various thickness while testing. All shooting should be from a bench and only the forearm hanger should contact the bags. If you elect this method, be sure to either remove the forearm take-down nut or securely tape it in place. It can be very easily*lost.
*
*
*FIGURE 1
*
Once you have determined the proper tension and installed the wedge, a few drops of one of the new "wonder" glues can help keep it in position even if the forearm is sprung slightly, as when using a sling.
*
Now*your attention needs to return to the forearm itself. In order to prevent the forearm from rocking on the hanger, a little glassing is called for followed by floating of the barrel to ensure that no forearm contact exists..
*
*
*
Once you have completed your glassing job, re-assemble the rifle and check fit. Do not over-tighten the forearm screw. Check for any barrel/forearm contact. Look at the contact area between the receiver and the forearm. In order to complete your project, this area must be relieved so that there is no contact of any kind between the receiver and the forearm. Remember that by placing your shim, the angle between the receiver and hanger has been subtly altered and can create unwanted contact. Work slowly and carefully (I usually*use sandpaper and check the fit often)*until a thin sheet of paper can just be slid between the two surfaces at all points. Be sure to apply a finish to seal your end product from moisture warpage. Without this step, the rest of your work has been for nothing.
*
The glassing you accomplished before this step will act as a "stop" to return your forearm to the same place on the hanger each time you assemble the weapon. There is no need to over-tighten the forearm screw. If, at this point, the forearm does have any wobble allowing it to contact the barrel on a hit-or-miss basis.
*
*
Hard to do? Not really; if you have even a tiny bit of "handyman" skills.
*
Worth the effort? You bet! You will end up not only with a true "classic", but a classic that will shoot right along-side the best bolt guns.
*
SSL
 
One of the stores around here had a No.1 International in 7x57 for a long time. The International is the version with the full-length stock, which I think is the most beautiful of the bunch, and I've had a thing for the 7x57 cartridge for a long time. It just seemed the perfect round for the No.1 International. The store had it discounted pretty deeply, down to $1000 I think it was, but I never could quite bring myself to buy it. There were a couple of dings on the stock that bothered me (and probably helped explain the price) and there always seemed to be other guns I wanted more. Anyway, it was there for a long time, and then one day it was gone. I've always sort of regretted not buying it.
 
Like 9mmepiphany I always wanted a Ruger No. 1 in .375 H&H. Didn't have any real use for it but it did conjure up dreams of big game hunting the world over. I figured I was never going be able to afford to go on safari with it; just that this would be the closest I would get to my dream without actually being there.
 
If I wanted a nice falling block single shot I would look into the winchester/browning low wall or high wall platform. I think they look nicer and handle better.
 
All of the MSRPs on Ruger's site are usually WAY above what you will pay for them.

For example...the MSRP on the SR9c is $530. I usually see them for $430-$470. I bought mine brand new on sale for $400...a sale that runs pretty much twice a year at several LGS in my area.

I usually see the No. 1s for around $1000-$1200.

You could always buy the Dakota Farquharson Rifle for $6,500....

Dakota Farquharson
 
MedWheeler said:
Only reference I know of attesting to the rifle is its infamous use in 1984 by serial-murderer Michael Silka. In his final showdown, Silka, a Vietnam veteran, used the Model 1 in .30-06 to kill Trooper Troy Duncan, who was aboard an airborne helicopter that had been sent to interdict him near Hot Manley Springs. He was cut down by Duncan's partner, Jeffrey Hall, using an M16. Hall was also a Vietnam veteran.

Silka was reportedly so skilled with shooting and loading the single-shot weapon that it could sometimes be mistaken for a repeater.

Read more here:

http://murderpedia.org/male.S/s/silka-michael.htm

(This contains a firsthand account written by Trooper Hall.)
Click to expand...


I seen that on tv
 
I've learned a bit so thank you all,,,

I've learned a bit so thank you all,,,
But in reality it's a moot point for me now.

I have the income that would allow me to save for one,,,
But I doubt I could ever plunk down the cash,,,
My hand would freeze up if I tried. :eek:

Maybe I should just find someone to make,,,
A fancy stock for my H&R. :neener:

I only own one pretty rifle,,,
All of my others are very functional,,,
My CZ-452 Military Trainer is the only beauty.

Aarond

P.S.
Unquestionably understated....perfectly... like no other. A masterpiece of modern production with a pleasant agreement of days long past. It has more to do with the art of the rifle than the act of the rifle. It may not be perfect for what it does but it is perfect in how it does.
Click to expand...

That was some seriously eloquent waxing. :D

.
 
Used to have a stainless tropical in 405 Winchester. Fun gun but sold it for a bit of a profit. I would suggest a Browning High Wall also
 
ruger #1 in 270 win.

it is in the top 3 of accurate guns that i own.
.3" at 100 yards
130gr nosler ballistic tips

mine came this way when i bought it for $325 and all i did was load up some ammo
 
I have the income that would allow me to save for one,,,
But I doubt I could ever plunk down the cash,,,
My hand would freeze up if I tried.
Click to expand...

Hit up the pawn shops. You may be surprised.
I saw one about a year ago in .243 that looked brand new and had a Leupold VX-1 on it for $600.
I was broke at the time and was nearly sick. I almost traded in a gun to put it on layaway but that wouldn't have been very smart at the time, so I didn't.

But they can be had reasonably priced if you keep looking. I would like to have one as well.
 
Wow, what a pretty rifle,,,

I Googled the EABCO and the Farquharson,,,
Both are danged fine looking rifles.

Why oh why wasn't I born a rich man,,,
Instead of so danged handsome.

Aarond

.
 
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