Ruger (Police) Service Six Cleaning Question

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CraigAPS

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My dad has a Ruger Service Six .38. He's had it for a bout 20 years, but he hasn't started really shooting it until very recently (He had to have it for a job back when he bought it). I figured that, after so many years, the crane/yoke needed to be cleaned and oiled. However, much to my surprise, there's no screw to loosen and remove the crane/yoke. In fact, there are no screws that I could find at all except the one for the grips. Is there some sort of trick to remove the cylinder from the frame? Is this just not possible on this model? I'm sorry if this is a dumb question. I'm still fairly new to firearms and have gotten most of my information from my own research and asking more knowledgeable folks like yourselves (and some Youtube videos :eek:). Everything I've seen about stripping a revolver entails loosening a screw on the right-hand/outside (as you look down the gun from the handle) of the frame. Thanks!
 
Yes, that helps immensely. Wow! I don't know why I didn't even think about searching for the manual. He had bought it used and didn't have a manual with it. Thanks. I feel like an idiot! I appreciate the link, Shaky.
 
Here's one of the videos I found by searching "Ruger Security Six Disassembly" on YouTube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S3ammX5PPck

If the revolver has not been disassembled before, you will probably find it difficult to depress the spring loaded plunger that retains the trigger guard (fire control assembly) in the frame; it gets easier once you disassemble and assemble it a few times. I found that an appropriately sized screwdriver gives a little more leverage than using the hammer strut as shown in the video, just be careful not to gouge the finish.

Also, in the video the little pin that retains the hammer strut is shown in the video as sitting in a hole between the grip panel. On my revolver that pin sits inside the large roll pin on the bottom of the grip frame (the one that "locates" the grip panel. If yours is missing you can just use a small finish nail or the leg of a paperclip.
 
Thanks, Crunchy! That does help. And thanks for the tips. I'll have to keep those in mind when I disassemble his Ruger.
 
If the Service Six is anything like the SP101 , DO NOT actuate the trigger while the trigger assembly is removed from the frame.

I learned this the hard way...
 
Yeah but that's how you learn to re assemble the trigger group ( you know - the hard way). Just don't do in a room with shag carpet....... If you are not good at figuring how how things work mechanically and working with tiny springs and plungers and tweezers - don't even think about tearing a Ruger revolver down. Back in the days when we still had mental asylums in this country they were filled with people who attempted to tear down and re assemble revolvers made by Ruger and Charter Arms. Seriously there is no reason to tear one down for simple cleaning. A little solvent, some compressed air and a few drops of oil in the right places is all that's really necessary for "cleaning".
 
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Heh!

The fact that this lesson was learned over "shag carpet" makes me laugh!

A Ruger Police Service Six is a beautiful gun, and I hope to add one to my collection some day. These links should come in handy.
 
Years ago I had a GP 100 on my bench and a tiny plunger and spring launched. I tore the shop apart (NO shag carpet) and crawled around on my hands and knees with a flashlight looking for that spring and plunger under and behind everything - and never found them. After ordering and receiving new parts from Ruger I found them both in the very back of a tool box drawer. That's how it usually works. Murphy has a GREAT sense of humor.........
 
Seriously there is no reason to tear one down for simple cleaning. A little solvent, some compressed air and a few drops of oil in the right places is all that's really necessary for "cleaning".

I agree.

Unless the gun has been shot a lot by your Dad or is neglected with rust (blue finish gun) I would not disassemble it.

With todays cleaning products it is much easier to clean the action. Simply remove the grips, cock the hammer (on a empty gun of course) and liberally spray the inside of the action with a product called "Gun Scrubber." Other folks recommend using brake cleaner as it is cheaper.

Be sure to do this outside away from anything you don't want to kill.

Gun Scrubber will dry on it's own. After the blasting all of the gunk out of the action spray the inside of the action with a good quality gun oil. Rem-Oil is a commonly available choice. Break-free has been in use for decades and is a excellent product.

Back in the days when we still had mental asylums in this country they were filled with people who attempted to tear down and re assemble revolvers made by Ruger and Charter Arms.

I disassembled a couple of Ruger double-action revolvers over the years. It did not put me in a mental asylum but it has kept me in Smith & Wesson therapy ever since.
 
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Ok. So, to clean the action, I can see how not tearing it down would be good. What about the crane? Would just putting a drop of oil where the crane and cylinder come together and working the cylinder around be enough to keep the cylinder moving freely?
 
If the Service Six is anything like the SP101 , DO NOT actuate the trigger while the trigger assembly is removed from the frame.

I learned this the hard way...

Yup, me too.
I called Ruger customer service.
But actually had it back together by the time they answered.
A supervisor offered me a job, but told them I lived a little too far away to commute.
Wi -> NH
 
For a first-time use after many years, you can strip the Ruger; it's the only revolver designed to be field stripped. But after cleaning & lube, it's not necessary. In fact, a Ruger Rep. told me it's not advisable to repeatedly strip it.
 
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