Ruger revolver triggers

Status
Not open for further replies.

bean357

Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2005
Messages
346
Location
Minnesota
Greetings all!

Looking for some advice for my Ruger GP-100 and SP-101. I like them, but the triggers are just.....well, I'll just say I do NOT like them at all, especially when compared to my S&W's. I just recently obtained the SP-101, with planned use for my carry gun. A little over a week ago decided to bring them to the gunsmith to see if he could do any lightening on the triggers. Last night they were ready to be picked up. Come to find out, he did not have any success in altering the trigger pull, and said he had the GP-100 apart, but could not do anything with the trigger. I'm wondering if there is someplace specializing in this or do I just have to accept the way the factory pull is? I looked on the Sturm-Ruger website but did not find anything.

Thanks
 
there are wolff spring kits for the sp101, don't know about the gp100. I have not had them installed, but the trigger on my sp101 did improve to a noticeable degree after use; live and dry firing will smooth it out some.
 
Thanks for the tip, sd-I'll check out the spring kits.
I wondered about dry firing, whether it would improve with that and shooting - maybe I should try to find one of those vintage "quick skill" shooting systems and pop away when I am able to watch TV!
 
There are gunsmiths who offer action jobs for the Ruger SP101 and GP100. A quick Googling turned up this one as well as this one. I suspect a little more searching could turn up a few more. As I have no personal experience with them I make no recommendation for either of them. I've heard nothing but good things about Clark Custom, mind you.
 
A lighter return spring goes a long way to improving the trigger pull. Particularly the DA. I didn't need to replace the Hammer springs on my SRH but lowering the return spring to the lightest one that came in the Wilson Combat kit got me down to a measuered 2.75 lb SA trigger pull. Didn't check the DA pull since I use it as a target gun but it's very much improved. Putting some moly grease on the innards helped smooth things up a bit too.

I've had not problems with ignition or trigger reset since the change.
 
Thank you, BryanP and Black Snowman. I appreciate the help. I know for sure, that for my likings, the GP-100 has to have something done, or it will move on. I'd rather not see that happen, if I can alter it. Gun is in new condition, and only had a max of a 50 rd box of ammo through it.

Oh, and Snowman--2.75lb SA ? :what: Cool. This mean GP piece I have here is at 7 +
 
Is the single action bad?


Before doing anything on a new Ruger, dry fire it a whole buncha times.

Wolfe is good. I went to a store and bought a whole bunch of springs once. I kept playing around until I found one I liked. The store didn't have all that many. I'd like to find a source for more.


munk
 
munk,
The single action on the SP is one I could live with. On the other hand, the GP is awful. Close to 7 1/2 on SA. At least I think that is awful.
Thanks! I'll see what's on the outdoor channel to dryfire at!
 
I'll second what Monk says...Ruger actions smooth up wonderfully after 500 rounds or so.

I have had a number of Rugers over the years, and most have benefited from reduced power Wolff springs...only one SP needed the heavier factory trigger return spring. Brownell's is a great source for these springs, and with the modular disassembly of the Rugers, it's a snap to do.

As you've probably heard before, fire the heck out of the gun after lightening the springs to insure reliability with your carry ammo.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/Store/AdvancedSearch.aspx
 
What did your gunsmith mean when he said he could do nothing with the trigger?As soon as I get a new Ruger the first thing I do is install springs and polish all the insides.If I can do this and reduce the trigger pull both S/A and D/A ALOT I belive anyone can.
 
Coot, I'm going to a pretty good sized gun show tomorrow. Along with looking for a K frame .22LR , I am hoping to purchase a load of .38 and .357 ammo from the same party I usually buy from. Great reason to come home and dig right in to the supply and maybe start loosening up the Rugers. I think if it was up to my hubby, the GP would be gone, but thanks for the leads on making it a keeper.
 
I have a 6" GP100 that I changed out the hammer spring from the factory standard 14 lb. to the Wolff 12 lb. and it made all the difference in the world.
 
GRITS,
what he said was that there was "a double spring mechanism that I cannot do anything with." I wondered about why he had no suggestions, but that is all he said
 
The double springs are the trigger return and the mainspring.All I have are rugers,Im not sure about S&W's but I think they have 3 springs.Maybe thats what he's use to.Rugers are real simple once you poke around in there.If you decide to do the springs,don't pull the trigger once the group is out of the gun.
 
Some years ago I picked up an almost new stainless GP from an estate because it had such a fantastic DA. It was every bit as good as anything I have ever handled and second to none. The widow was unable to tell me who did the work so I will never know. But it does show what is possible...

I have cycled through some very good SPs, too, so anyone who tells you it cannot be done is just admitting his ignorance.

My standbys are old Security/Speed/Service Sixes which smooth out pretty well with usage. l
 
Ruger (and S&W) trigger pulls can be SMOOTHED by dry firing because the moving parts burnish where they make contact. Changing the springs may LIGHTEN the trigger pull(s) but at the expense of some reliability. The reason both Ruger and S&W use heavier springs then some people like is because they want to be certain that when the trigger is pulled the cartridge will fire, regardless of what kind of primer is involved, or if the action is less then absolutely clean and lubricated.

Smoothing the action through dry firing won't hurt a thing, although it is advisable to use snap-caps or empty cartridge cases in the chambers to save wear and battering of the firing pin spring.

If the revolver is to be used in any kind of weapon's context it is advisable to leave the springs alone - regardless of the make or model.

A 7-pound single action trigger pull is not acceptable, and should be called to Ruger's attention.

For a recomendation concerning Clark, send a P.M. to one of our moderators, Preacherman.
 
Geminicustoms.com did a carry package on my SP-101 and I'd highly reccomend them. They took on the package that Jack Weigand used to do. Buttery smooth DAO.

170104.jpg
 
Thanks all for the input!! :D
Fuff, on your advice (my gratitude) I sent Preacherman a PM and heard back instantly! I will be checking into sending to Clark Customs, as also mentioned by BryanP
 
Good. You will find out in time that Preacherman is gentleman, a scholar, and a highly reliable source of information. :cool: :D
 
You can smooth/tune a Ruger trigger by stoning/cleaning up the contact surfaces and also putting in replacement springs, (www.brownells.com), but it will never be a S&W trigger. I love my Rugers but their actions are a bit "different" than a S&W action that has been smoothed over.
 
I picked up a used Security Six about two years ago. The trigger is better than the one on my 686. It also cost about $300 less than my 686.
 
as the foregoing posters said, ruger triggers Can be made better, even Great. i get one, i take it to my smith and tell him to "break a leg". i have not been dissapointed. i have no idea what he does,i just know it works. and, dont forget, "lawyer triggers" are on most guns these days.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top