Ruger SFAR 308 25yd sight in / shooting review

[drobs]

Ruger® SFAR™ Autoloading Rifle Model 5610

www.ruger.com

I picked this up Wednesday at a local gun shop. I've been wanting one for awhile. I like the light weight of 6.8lbs and the ability to easily mount optics.
I also own a Springfield M1A Scout rifle. In the past I've owned a Cetme, A FAL 16 inch carbine, and a full size M1A.

Yesterday afternoon, I took it over to the local Missouri Department of Conservation unstaffed shooting range to sight it in at 25yds. It was late in the day and I didn't bring my spotting scope. I didn't shoot at 100yds.

Using my shooting bag as a rest, I 1st sighted in my new fresh out of the box Aimpoint ACO Red Dot using old TW 1968 7.62x51 that I picked up at a local gun auction. TW stands for the Twin Cities Arsenal out of Minnesota. This 56 year old ammo was loose in a 50 cal can, tarnished, and looks to have been taken off linked M60 machine gun belts. Why use this old ammo? It was handy and didn't require me digging through my ammo can fort. I was also curious if it would go bang.



Shooting 3 shot groups sighting in the Aimpoint at 25yds:


I then sighted in my Magpul Mbus 3 backup iron sights at the same distance:


That elevation dial on the front sight is annoying. I like the older Magpul flip up sights with the traditional screw in front sight post better. I didn't bring my reading glasses and had to use my camera to see what direction I needed to turn the dial to raise the elevation:


Issues:
While sighting in the iron sights, the trigger went dead. I racked the charging handle a couple a times - no go. Then I noticed the trigger pin walked.


I was able to jiggle the trigger and get the pin back in place.



I also noticed my Aimpoint mount came loose. I used a screw driver and tightened it back down. It was on there hand tight previously.

Thoughts - 16 inch 308's with muzzle brakes are LOUD. My 1st 16 inch 308 was a FAL that was also LOUD. I think an 18inch barrel would be more pleasant. The walking trigger pin could be a fluke. I will keep an eye on it and if need be invest in some anti-walk pins.

I also need to order a Griffin Gate-Lok flash hider to use with my Dead Air Nomad suppressor. You can judge the accuracy (not so hot) but I was using old M60 machine gun ammo. I had no failures other than the trigger pin walking and the red dot loosening up - it was on hand tight.
Total rounds fired = 75.

I was hoping this would replace my Springfield M1A Scout rifle. Weight-wise it does. Accuracy wise - that remains to be seen. I will get out to 100yds next with some newer ammo.

 

[trackskippy]

I keep eyeing the 16" SFAR's. Seemed to be a mix of opinions on them early on and I wanted to see how they shake out. Please do let us know how things go.

I agree with your thinking on the brake and it would be gone as soon as I got it home and replaced with a AAC BO suppressor mount. The 16" guns are loud and flashy without the brake, why they insist on adding them to me is a puzzle. I had a M1A SOCOM that came with a brake and it was very annoying in that respect. I also had a couple of 16" FAL's in the past, one with a L1A1 flash suppressor on it, the other, a modified AR cage suppressor. They were loud, but way better than the SOCOM.

I currently have a 16" S&W M&P 10 and really like it. AR's in 308 are fun shooters and have that nice, firm "push" on your shoulder when you squeeze a round off.

 

[Mk-211]

Accuracy doesn't look bad for old surplus ammo. Gonna watch this thread as I've been eyeing the SFAR.

 

[drobs]

Reading some reviews on other forums (AR15.com) the adjustable gas block is really close the free float hand guard. Members there believe that barrel whip maybe the reason these aren't the tightest grouping rifles and that a hand guard with more room would = a more accurate rifle.

I don't know how much I want to modify this rifle. The accuracy is acceptable so far for being so light weight.

Also I shot with the gas block on setting 3, which is where it was set at the factory. I did read the manual quickly before shooting, looking at the gas block section and the muzzle brake section.

 

[Mk-211]

I'm sure there's plenty of aftermarket parts out there. I would think that finding a better hand guard, should be easy.

 

[Mk-211]

Is the muzzle brake a factory model? Being from a state that bans everything, wondering how much a different brake would help. Something along the lines of a VG-6 Gamma.

I like the 5.56 version that I have on one of my AR's.

 

[drobs]

Is the muzzle brake a factory model? Being from a state that bans everything, wondering how much a different brake would help. Something along the lines of a VG-6 Gamma.

I like the 5.56 version that I have on one of my AR's.

The muzzle brake is the factory model. Per a hang tag, it supposedly reduces recoil by 30%. Thankfully it uses the standard 30 cal 5/8-24 thread pitch.

I plan to replace with a Griffin Gate-Lok muzzle device. That will allow me to use my suppressor.
I just need to decide between this fancy looking one:

Gate-LOK™ FlashComp .30cal (7.62mm) 5/8x24

30SD Muzzle Devices

www.griffinarmament.com

Of this standard flash hider style:

Gate-LOK™ Closed Tine Flash Hider 7.62mm 5/8x24

Gate-LOK™ Closed Tine Flash Hider 7.62mm 5/8x24

www.griffinarmament.com

The Ruger Boomer muzzle brake has an interesting removal procedure:

 

[Lefty38-55]

Nive report, I hope it works for you!

FWIW that 'interesting' brake removal process is a standard removal process for any such RH thread fastener coupled with a jam nut.

 

[jmorris]

I didn't bring my reading glasses and had to use my camera to see what direction I needed to turn the dial to raise the elevation:

One of these can be kept in your wallet for those times you just thought you didn't need them.

Amazon.com

 

[Shawn Dodson]

I'm concerned about that trigger pin walking.

I encourage you to inspect the hammer spring to ensure it's not installed backwards.

In addition, there's usually one or two grooves in the trigger pin that are intended for the leg(s) of the hammer spring to engage and prevent walking. It's possible the trigger pin was installed as the hammer pin and vice versa.

 

[drobs]

I'm concerned about that trigger pin walking.

I encourage you to inspect the hammer spring to ensure it's not installed backwards.

In addition, there's usually one or two grooves in the trigger pin that are intended for the leg(s) of the hammer spring to engage and prevent walking. It's possible the trigger pin was installed as the hammer pin and vice versa.

I took a look at it earlier today. Looks like the hammer spring legs are in the right place. Maybe it was an oversight when it was assembled?
I didn't look in there before shooting it.

 

[drobs]

Nive report, I hope it works for you!

FWIW that 'interesting' brake removal process is a standard removal process for any such RH thread fastener coupled with a jam nut.

It's my 1st rifle with a jam nut on the muzzle device. Question, would you re-use that jam nut with a different muzzle device? Like a thread protector?

 

[someguy2800]

I have two recently purchased SFAR's, one in 308 and one in 6.5 creedmoor. The trigger pin holes in both of them are incredibly sloppy. Worse then any other AR I've ever had. I plan to get captured pins for it but haven't yet. I might change out the trigger too. The two stage trigger messes with my head as I don't have any other rifles with a 2 stage trigger.

 

[Shawn Dodson]

I took a look at it earlier today. Looks like the hammer spring legs are in the right place. Maybe it was an oversight when it was assembled?
I didn't look in there before shooting it.

View attachment 1194777

Hard to tell if the trigger pin is grooved. I suspect it isn't.

 

[drobs]

Hard to tell if the trigger lin is grooved. I suspect it isn't.

I always have watch a youtube vid on replacing / installing AR fire control groups. I may take it out completely and check. In that pic it almost looks like the top / left hammer spring leg is angled.

 

[Gtscotty]

I like my SFAR, had to send it back right when I got it because the gas block was in contact with the rail, but it's been fine since it came back, and is good for 1" - 1.5" 5 shot groups with hunting bullets. Mine is suppressed all of the time, the factory agb works ok on setting one, but I picked up an Aero gas block to try out after hunting season, I'll get around to putting it on soon.

My main purpose for the SFAR is hunting, and I carted it out in the woods most of the trips I was able to make this year. Didn't get anything, but I like it as a hunting rig, light, short, adjustable pull, plenty accurate and utilitarian, so I'm not concerned about bumping it around.

 

[Lefty38-55]

Question, would you re-use that jam nut with a different muzzle device? Like a thread protector?

Sure, but only if the new device needed it to be 'locked' in place.

I would not (myself) re-use a crush washer, which is another method for securing muzzle devices whilst 'clocked' into position.

 

[Omaha-BeenGlockin]

I've also have been looking at these---but kind of waiting for the newness to wear off and the price to come down and for Ruger to shake all the bugs out.

 

[drobs]

I've also have been looking at these---but kind of waiting for the newness to wear off and the price to come down and for Ruger to shake all the bugs out.

That was my thought too. This gun was pretty bare bones. In the box was a 20rd Magpul mag, cable lock, and the manual.
The pistol grip has an allen wrench for adjusting the gas block in it.

I like Magpul but many of their stocks are sold a la carte. Their stocks that are setup for QD sling points don't come with the sockets required to use a QD sling swivel. You have buy that separately. Look like Ruger specified Magpul stocks that have the QD sockets in them.

On a funny note. Ruger keeping the tradition of PURPLE gun finishes alive.

Kind of hard to see in this pic but the bolt is purple.

 

[Pat Riot]

@drobs
I also have a Ruger SFAR 16”. Rather than give you the history on mine I will just link a thread where I discussed my experience and issues.

I was having gas control issues. I did the full break in on setting 3 as I was told by Ruger Customer Service. I was shooting Norma 150 gr Tactical Ammo just fine in the gun, but Saltech Swiss 150 gr was a real PITA. The extractor was ripping chunks o the rim off. The cases would stick in the chamber. It was a hassle. Some Cavim surplus ammo I had from 20 years ago worked just fine.

It went back to Ruger because setting 3 was too much gas and setting 2 wasn’t enough. Ruger replaced the gas valve with an updated block. They also reamed the chamber.
Unfortunately since I got it back I haven’t been able to hit the range with it. I am hoping to go to the range this Weds as the temps are supposed to be in the 50’s.

My Ruger SFAR is on its way back to Ruger - Adjustable Gas Block Issues

I am kind of upset / disappointed. My SFAR let me down. Today is the first day of deer season here and my SFAR, the gun that was going to be my deer rifle is lounging at FedEx awaiting shipment to NC. After a 200 round break in and a really good cleaning I took some ammo to the range last week...

www.thehighroad.org

Regarding the muzzle brake. I removed mine and installed an A2 flash hider for now. I am considering one of these once I shoot the gun and see how reliable it is.

.308 / 7.62x39 / 7.62x51 / .300 Blackout Krinkov Muzzle Brake Can 2 Piece Canister Cone 5/8-24 TPI With Crush Washer Included - CX3TACTICAL™

Length: 3.50″ OAL Knurled Surface Outside Cone Length Minus Flats: 2 15/16″ Diameter: 1 3/8″ Exit Hole: .338″ Weight: 8oz Threads: 5/8-24 Machined From Carbon Steel C1045 Heat Treated Magnesium Phosphate Finish For A Variety of Calibers .308, 7.62×39, 7.62×51, .300 Blackout, .30 Caliber Rifles...

cx3tactical.com

 

[anymanusa]

View attachment 1194742

Ruger® SFAR™ Autoloading Rifle Model 5610

www.ruger.com

I picked this up Wednesday at a local gun shop. I've been wanting one for awhile. I like the light weight of 6.8lbs and the ability to easily mount optics.
I also own a Springfield M1A Scout rifle. In the past I've owned a Cetme, A FAL 16 inch carbine, and a full size M1A.

Yesterday afternoon, I took it over to the local Missouri Department of Conservation unstaffed shooting range to sight it in at 25yds. It was late in the day and I didn't bring my spotting scope. I didn't shoot at 100yds.

Using my shooting bag as a rest, I 1st sighted in my new fresh out of the box Aimpoint ACO Red Dot using old TW 1968 7.62x51 that I picked up at a local gun auction. TW stands for the Twin Cities Arsenal out of Minnesota. This 56 year old ammo was loose in a 50 cal can, tarnished, and looks to have been taken off linked M60 machine gun belts. Why use this old ammo? It was handy and didn't require me digging through my ammo can fort. I was also curious if it would go bang.

View attachment 1194747 View attachment 1194748

Shooting 3 shot groups sighting in the Aimpoint at 25yds:
View attachment 1194749

I then sighted in my Magpul Mbus 3 backup iron sights at the same distance:
View attachment 1194750

That elevation dial on the front sight is annoying. I like the older Magpul flip up sights with the traditional screw in front sight post better. I didn't bring my reading glasses and had to use my camera to see what direction I needed to turn the dial to raise the elevation:
View attachment 1194751

Issues:
While sighting in the iron sights, the trigger went dead. I racked the charging handle a couple a times - no go. Then I noticed the trigger pin walked.
View attachment 1194752

I was able to jiggle the trigger and get the pin back in place.
View attachment 1194753


I also noticed my Aimpoint mount came loose. I used a screw driver and tightened it back down. It was on there hand tight previously.

Thoughts - 16 inch 308's with muzzle brakes are LOUD. My 1st 16 inch 308 was a FAL that was also LOUD. I think an 18inch barrel would be more pleasant. The walking trigger pin could be a fluke. I will keep an eye on it and if need be invest in some anti-walk pins.

I also need to order a Griffin Gate-Lok flash hider to use with my Dead Air Nomad suppressor. You can judge the accuracy (not so hot) but I was using old M60 machine gun ammo. I had no failures other than the trigger pin walking and the red dot loosening up - it was on hand tight.
Total rounds fired = 75.

I was hoping this would replace my Springfield M1A Scout rifle. Weight-wise it does. Accuracy wise - that remains to be seen. I will get out to 100yds next with some newer ammo.

Lol that you'd rather have a fiddly little tool to adjust the front sight rather than and on-board adjustment.

I like the thought of the sfar, I don't like all the internet reports of youtubers who can't get the action to cycle reliably, otherwise I'd already own one.

 

[drobs]

Lol that you'd rather have a fiddly little tool to adjust the front sight rather than and on-board adjustment.

I like the thought of the sfar, I don't like all the internet reports of youtubers who can't get the action to cycle reliably, otherwise I'd already own one.

On your 1st point - yes, I keep a set of eye glasses screw drivers in my range bag for adjusting standard AR15 front sights. A nail works too.

I figure, Ruger has got have them figured out by now...
Other than the trigger pin - no cycling issues.

 

[drobs]

Looking closer at the walking trigger pin. I'm finding it wants to move just by touching it with my finger.
It is grooved on the right hand side but I think the hammer spring is too thick to lock into the groove.



The other end of the pin is not grooved.


While I should send it back to Ruger so they are aware of it. I'm going to order some anti-walk pins.

Home

AR 15 Anti Walk Trigger Pins are a great way to improve the reliability of your AR15. Anti rotation and anti walk pins ensure they won't fall out.

www.primaryarms.com

I will try some other grain weights of ammo before investing in Anti-walk springs to make sure it functions with it.
I also have a flash hider on order that will work with my suppressor. If I find other issues, I will send it in.

 

[drobs]

@drobs
I also have a Ruger SFAR 16”. Rather than give you the history on mine I will just link a thread where I discussed my experience and issues.

I was having gas control issues. I did the full break in on setting 3 as I was told by Ruger Customer Service. I was shooting Norma 150 gr Tactical Ammo just fine in the gun, but Saltech Swiss 150 gr was a real PITA. The extractor was ripping chunks o the rim off. The cases would stick in the chamber. It was a hassle. Some Cavim surplus ammo I had from 20 years ago worked just fine.

It went back to Ruger because setting 3 was too much gas and setting 2 wasn’t enough. Ruger replaced the gas valve with an updated block. They also reamed the chamber.
Unfortunately since I got it back I haven’t been able to hit the range with it. I am hoping to go to the range this Weds as the temps are supposed to be in the 50’s.

My Ruger SFAR is on its way back to Ruger - Adjustable Gas Block Issues

I am kind of upset / disappointed. My SFAR let me down. Today is the first day of deer season here and my SFAR, the gun that was going to be my deer rifle is lounging at FedEx awaiting shipment to NC. After a 200 round break in and a really good cleaning I took some ammo to the range last week...

www.thehighroad.org

Regarding the muzzle brake. I removed mine and installed an A2 flash hider for now. I am considering one of these once I shoot the gun and see how reliable it is.

.308 / 7.62x39 / 7.62x51 / .300 Blackout Krinkov Muzzle Brake Can 2 Piece Canister Cone 5/8-24 TPI With Crush Washer Included - CX3TACTICAL™

Length: 3.50″ OAL Knurled Surface Outside Cone Length Minus Flats: 2 15/16″ Diameter: 1 3/8″ Exit Hole: .338″ Weight: 8oz Threads: 5/8-24 Machined From Carbon Steel C1045 Heat Treated Magnesium Phosphate Finish For A Variety of Calibers .308, 7.62×39, 7.62×51, .300 Blackout, .30 Caliber Rifles...

cx3tactical.com

I used gas setting 3 for these initial 75rds. Reading the manual, it mentions using gas setting 2 for factory / commercial ammo. I didn't adjust the gas setting. Thinking to myself, why would they ship it on gas setting 3 if they didn't want their customers shooting it on on that setting?

Other than a FAL which also has an adjustable gas system, this is my 1st AR10 / AR10 with that system. That's why I went straight to that section of the manual before shooting it. I think I shot all my Cavim back in the day but I still have German Dag and even some South African Surplus in battle packs. My most recent Lake City is dated 2013.

I will try some other heavier hunting bullets to see if I have any issues.

There is a thread ar15.com where many owners are switching out the gas system.

New Ruger SFAR (Small Frame Autoloading rifle) - Page 35 - AR15.COM

Firearm Discussion and Resources from AR-15, AK-47, Handguns and more! Buy, Sell, and Trade your Firearms and Gear.

www.ar15.com

I would prefer not to have to do that.

 

[drobs]

I flipped the trigger pin and it looks like it's doing a better job of capturing the hammer spring in the groove. The pin still moves but the hammer spring end moves with it. I think the problem is solved.

And since I'm fiddling with the lower, I tightened the mag release 1 more turn. It felt a little loose to me.