Rust prevention for dies

[redneck2]

FWIW..all dies are not created equal IMO. I've had a couple of sets of RCBS. They rust while you watch. The only reason I'd take RCBS is if they were free and I could re-sell them for a profit.

This hard to type.....but....Lee dies seem to rust way less than RCBS. Actually, I've gotten rid of most everything else and stick with the Lee Deluxe sets that have the collet neck sizer.

 

[Peter M. Eick]

I hose them down with triflow oil and toss used oil patches on them in the box. Kind of a mess but I have not had any rust in Houston since I started that process. Works great but it is a mess.

 

[Mauser lover]

I leave mine sitting in a puddle of motor oil. I wipe them off, and out, with a little acetone before I start sizing. I re-lube with some case lubricant after I clean off the motor oil. When I am finished, I apply a generous helping of more motor oil, and set them back in the tray that they came in. (Lee Deluxe, RCBS, and Herters)

 

[germ]

I had a few dies showing some exterior surface rust, so a few months ago I cleaned them up real well and gave 'em a coating of Eezox inside and out. So far so good.

 

[RainDodger]

Wow. Now I'm pretty amazed. 40+ years of reloading and I never thought to drop anything other than brass cases in my tumbler.

I live in an extremely wet area (a very wet area of WA state) and despite the fact that my reloading bench is in a heated workshop, some of my L.E. Wilson case holders and case gages have (had!) a slight patina of rust.

Just today, I dumped a bunch of spare Hoppes #9 into my tumbler that had some older media in it, and then tossed in a couple of the Wilson gages. My, oh, my, are they pretty now. No rust patina anymore, and they're clean and shiny.

Previous to this, I was keeping them in small plastic bags sprayed with the oil of choice - generally WD-40 or something. Now I'm simply submerging them in a glass jar of nice clean motor oil. I know that sounds drastic, but it's easy enough to fish one out, wipe off and use. There is literally too much moisture here for dessicants to work well. (a qt. size desicant can lasted maybe 3 days in my safe, so I went to one of the rod-type heaters).

Anyway, that was a long story to say something simple - tumbling tools can work well! Thanks for the tip.

 

[LiveLife]

Glad to help.

 

[Pit4Brains]

A lot of different methods coming up here... cool.
I tumbled mine last night with nu finish ( which I am using for the fist time) in some virgin lyman green corn cob. I know walnut was specified but all I have is corn cob. The nufinish seemed to clump rather quickly and even after a half hour, I could stir the vibrating media and get clumps to surface. I assume this is normal and I'm going to keep this media separate for dies, collets and loaded ammo.
The dies came out with a noticeable slick finish to them. I think this will do the trick..

 

[LiveLife]

For rust removal, I would recommend walnut media which has very hard and sharp edges/corners.

I use NuFinish primarily with fine grit walnut media on the "dry" side. For new batch of media, I add 2 capfuls and run the tumbler 10-15 minutes until the clumps are gone. I even use a wooden stick to stir the media while the tumbler is running which helps with polish distribution (5 minutes).

Once the polish is fully distributed in the media with no clumps, I add brass cases until the tumbling action starts to slow down. Some add an additional capful of NuFinish to each batch of brass but I don't. I add a capful every 3-4 batches. If you add too much polish, it may leave spots on the case surface.

Use of cut up used dryer sheets or paper towel will extend the life of media.

 

[Pit4Brains]

I add brass cases until the tumbling action starts to slow down.

Is this the initial cleaning of the brass or are you referring to using fine media and wax for loaded rounds? I keep my original "cleaning" media in a different coffee can to tumble recently fired brass.

 

[LiveLife]

Is this the initial cleaning of the brass or are you referring to using fine media and wax for loaded rounds?

I clean/polish spent brass case before resizing. Keep in mind that NuFinish is not a wax, but a "paint/finish cleaner/polish" that helps remove fouling and tarnish/stains.

I tested other carnauba wax based products and I got shiny but dirty/dark looking cases. :banghead:

The added bonus is that residual polish left on the surface of the case acts like case lube and decrease resizing efforts along with keeping the case surface from tarnishing over time.

 

[handyman163]

The Walnut media (lizard litter from the pet store) with NuFinish sure works wonders. I usually add a capfull to fresh media, then every other time tumbling, add a half cap or so of odorless mineral spirits. That mineral spirits really speeds up the cleaning process, and it seems to give brass a much lighter/brighter gold color that's almost as bright as nickel. It rejuvenates the polish in there too so it saves from adding more - and it's cheaper than the nu-finish.

I'm sure the mineral spirits would aid in breaking down corrosion too.

 

[JLDickmon]

I hose mine down with PB Blaster in the box when I'm done.. never thought of the tumbler thing..

Freakin A Dittybag! that's a good idea!

 

[elkslayer4x5]

I lined the interior of my die storage boxes with VCI paper

 

[HEAVY METAL 1]

I coated the outsides of mine with Johnson's paste wax and store in die box with VCI chips-no problems.

 

[blarby]

Disassemble, and tumble in walnut and mineral spirits for 4 hours to remove corrosion.

Transfer to corn cob grit , and tumble overnight with nufinish.

I treat all of my dies this way since fixing the first, and it has yet to let me down.


Its also a great way to treat hardware such as nuts and bolts.

 

[GaryL]

I forget where I read it, maybe here....

Anyway, in the old days, guys would put camphor pellets in their tool boxes to keep their tools from rusting. I noticed a slight patina on a couple sets this summer, so I figured I'd try doing that in my reloading die drawer. Got some granulated camphor several months back, so now it smells like camphor in there. Too soon to tell how well it's working, but we do get crazy humid here.

 

[HOWARD J]

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I store mine in plastic containers from super market or dollar store.
If they will be in container for more than 6-8 months I spray Barricade rust preventor into container.
Never have any rust

 

[bob4]

What great ideas here. Mine are beginning to rust a bit and not that old. ( SW Florida) Can't wait to try some ideas here. I do know that I'm one of those people who's perspiration is more toxic to steel and other metals that others. This is a fact.
Just a guess here. But if your a salt-aholic your sweating it out. Salt and steel is a no no.

 

[mtrmn]

Do a search on Fluid Film. I bought a case on ebay and find more uses for it every day. Will have to buy another case soon...
Also VPI paper works well. It comes packed with many automotive parts, bearings etc.
VPI=Vapor Phase Inhibitive

 

[Float Pilot]

I use the old RCBS case lube in my dies. It does not ruin powder or primers like petrolium based lube/cleaners.
Not much, just a light wipe down with a rag if they are going to be stored for awhile.
If they get sticky I clean them with de-natured alcohol.

I started hand-loading in 1970. I still own those dies. They have never rusted.

 

[10 Spot Terminator]

REM OIL to keep the rust off. Saw test results on bare steel plates of all the common oils and touted rust inhibitors and the REM OIL beat them all. This is my go to oil now for all my firearms as well .

 

[thump_rrr]

Boeshield T-9 and Boeshield rust free.
They can be found as a combo pack at Sears in the tool section.
Rust free is used to remove rust while T-9 is used to prevent corrosion.

 

[george d dennis]

rust

i use rig in the spray can.