S&W 342PD malfunction

[plnkr1234]

Hi Guys,

I went to the range yesterday to try out my 342PD. I've had it a few months but never got the chance to shoot it.

Started with some standard velocity 130gr PMC loads. The recoil was a little sharp compared to my Airweight 642. After firing a cylinder without problems, I pulled the trigger one more time. Of course the gun did not fire, but the trigger stayed stuck to the rear. I had to manually push it forward. I pulled the trigger a few more times, and it did not occur.

I then fired another cylinder full of std velocity, and pulled the trigger again after. It stayed stuck to the rear again, and I pushed it forward manually. I pulled the trigger again and it functioned normally.

This happened with a couple more cylinders, then the problem went away, although I only fired a couple more cylinders after that.

Has anyone else seen this? It seemed to be recoil related, as it only happened after firing a cylinder, and then pulling the trigger over an empty. It also did not occur during firing of live rounds.

Needless to say I am quite concerned about using this for CCW until I am sure of it's reliability. So much for revolver reliability. It does have the integral keyed internal saftey.

Thanks

P.S. I also tried some +P 158gr loads. Wow, felt like someone smacked my hand with a baseball bat! Quite unplesant compared to the 642. Now I see why I've seen so many in the used gun cases at the stores. Anyone know of a good non +P load for defense. I liked the std velocity Nyclads, but they're apparrently no longer made.

 

[R.H. Lee]

Maybe some gunk or schmutz in the lockwork left over from machining? Did you take the side plate off and clean out the internals?

 

[Bob79]

I have fired over 300 rounds through my 342PD (about 75 +P), and have not had any malfunction. I have also fired 5, pulled the trigger a 6th time over an already fired casing as well because I forgot how many rounds were fired. And that also produced no problems.

If it were my gun, I'd call Smith and send it in. Good luck, let us know what happens.

 

[JNewell]

Most recent S&W revolvers I've bought or inspected were bone dry inside. It could be as simple as lubricating it and/or cleaning out any possible foreign matter inside.

 

[Reservecop55]

342 PD Malfunction

I have never had the problem you described with my 340 Sc, whether firing .357 magnum , or +p or standard pressure. Call S&W at their toll free number and see what they say. They very well may say send it back and they usually pay fo rthe shipping whe they do that. I have started carrying Cor Bon 110 gr DPX . 38 Spcl in my Airlight revolvers. Standard pressure, comfortable to shoot and good performance.

 

[g56]

I've never had a problem like that, it could be it needs to be broken in, or it could need lubrication.

I trust you weren't carrying an untested pistol for CCW....

 

[plnkr1234]

Thanks for the replies.

Thankfully, I'm not in the habit of carrying a weapon before testing it. I have a very reliable 642 if I need a snubby. Needless to say, I'll have to have a couple hundred malfunction free rounds through the 342PD before I'll trust it. This may take a while since I can't tolerate shooting too many rounds at once. I may try that std. pressure Corbon load.

In the meantime, can someone tell me how to remove the sideplate without marring it or damaging the pistol? Doing so will not void the warranty will it?

Thanks

 

[JNewell]

1. Make sure the gun is unloaded.
2. Repeat step #1.
3. Remove grips.
4. Remove sideplate screws (3) with a correctly fitted screwdriver. Set them aside in a manner that will allow you to put them back in the holes they came out of - they are not interchangeable.
5. Take a wood or plastic handled hammer or screwdriver and, holding the gun with the sideplate down, rap the gripframe with the non-marring handle until the inertia of the sideplate shakes it loose. Caution, it will come out with the hammer block, don't loose parts. Do this over a towel on a counter or something like that. Do not pry the sideplate off. The aluminum guns can be somewhat stubborn, partly because the sideplates don't weigh much.

This won't void the warranty.

 

[plnkr1234]

Thanks J,

I'll give it a try.

 

[JNewell]

Please let us know how you fare.

The only thing that's a little fiddly is getting the hammer block back in correctly. The elongated hole at the wide end goes on the pin that projects from the rebound slide (the rectangular thing behind the trigger) and you have to get it oriented so that it will fit into the recess in which it slides in the sideplate. It's hard to describe how to do this without a picture of its correct location, but if you fiddle, gently and with a little patience, you should get it right. Don't panic if it takes a few tries, and don't use too much force. It's not a "get a bigger hammer" exercise.

 

[plnkr1234]

J,

I finally got around to taking off the sideplate of my 342PD. I followed your instructions and it worked well.

The only thing is, I did not see the hammer block. I looked up a revolver parts list to see what the hammer block should look like, and I could not find a similar part in my 342PD.

Nor could I find a groove in the sideplate where such a part would sit.

Is it possible that the 342PD does not have a hammer block? I'm a little worried that I may have somehow lost it while removing the sideplate, even though I was careful in trying not to do so.

Has anyone taken the sideplate off their 342 or 342PD and noted whether or not there is a hammer block?

Thanks

 

[BluesBear]

I had an original S&W Centennial revolver that indeed did NOT have a hammer block.

Since the hammer is fully enclosed and therefor has no hammer spur to be dropped on it is not needed.

I would surmise that the new wündermetäl gunz are made the same.

 

[Sir Aardvark]

A few months back I picked up a 340pd (New In the Box) and while it was not bone dry inside, it had very little lubrication from the factory.

I took off the grip and hosed the gun down with Breakfree, then blew it out with my air compressor. Also, mine showed up from the factory with a 14 lb. + trigger pull - they certainly do require an action job, IMO.

Oh, by the way,.....there is no hammer block in the 340pd, and I can safely assume there is none in the 342 either.

 

[tbeb]

For a non+P load I'd go with a heavy bullet so you get the most penetration. You might want to try the Hornady 140 gr. XTP/Hollow Point, or a 158 gr. lead semi-wadcutter from Winchester or Remington. The 140 gr. will recoil about 5% more, and the 158 gr. about 9% more, than the PMC 132 gr. FMJ.

www.safestop.net has a non+P 148 gr. copper plated wadcutter type load that does about 700 fps from a 2" barrel. Bullet face is cupped shape and has a very sharp edge. (Picture of bullet on web site is the one used for +P load.) If you don't mind paying $48 for 50 rds. delivered, then this would be a good choice too. Recoil will be about 5% more than the PMC 132 FMJ.

FWIW, the +P 158 gr. has about 30% more recoil than the PMC 132 gr. FMJ.

 

[plnkr1234]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the info about the hammer block. Also, I appreciate the suggestions for std. pressure defensive loads. I'll have to give them a try.

 

[paul105]

I have a m60 that had the exact same problem. I sent it back to S&W and they fixed it under warranty. Contact S&W, they'll send you info that will allow you to send the firearm back at their expense.