I just picked up a S&W 38 Special CTG and am eagerly looking forward to shooting it. Question that I have as this is my first revolver, can I shoot .357 mag out of it? I know that I can shoot .357 rounds out of it but I wasn't sure about the mag round. I will be doing a lot of hiking in black bear country this spring and was trying to get all ready for it. Sorry if this is a newbie question but I'd rather be safe than sorry. Thanks for the help.
S&W 38 Special CTG
- Thread starter kovach63
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Jim Watson
Member
No you may not. The .357 Magnum cartridge is purposely made longer than a .38 Special cartridge so you cannot shoot it in a .38 Special revolver. That would strain a new gun or blow up an old one. There are some old Colts and some Spanish copies of Colts and S&Ws that would accept a .357 Magnum cartridge... and blow up.
Also, you are mistaken, there is no such thing as a ".357 round" distinct from a .357 Magnum that can be shot in a .38 Special revolver. If it does not say .38 Special on the box and cartridge headstamp, don't shoot it.
The most powerful .38 Special ammunition available is not really adequate for even black bear protection in my opinion.
Also, you are mistaken, there is no such thing as a ".357 round" distinct from a .357 Magnum that can be shot in a .38 Special revolver. If it does not say .38 Special on the box and cartridge headstamp, don't shoot it.
The most powerful .38 Special ammunition available is not really adequate for even black bear protection in my opinion.
From your picture it looks like you have an older S&W Military & Police, I believe a pre-war example. Can you post back a serial number - you can X out the last 2 or 3 digits, for example 561XXX. This will allow us to better date the revolver. The serial number is at the bottom of the grip frame. It should also be stamped (in very small characters) on the rear face of the cyclinder. Depending upon the ago of your revolver you may want to stick to standard pressure loads for it.
Please read the sticky at the top of this forum by Jim March regarding revolvers, you need to make sure yours is safe to shoot.
Looking at your picture it appears the grips relatively recent replacements.
Please read the sticky at the top of this forum by Jim March regarding revolvers, you need to make sure yours is safe to shoot.
Looking at your picture it appears the grips relatively recent replacements.
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DWARREN123
Member
Nice revolver. Like said shoot only .38 spl out of it and I would not use any +P ammo either just regular rounds or cowboy action ammo.
For black bear a good 357 mag minimum or .44 mag or shotgun.
Be careful out there.
For black bear a good 357 mag minimum or .44 mag or shotgun.
Be careful out there.
Can I use +P HP ammo?
I just picked up this S&W Model 38 Airweight Bodyguard snubnose revolver. It is in great shape. Anyways it came with Federal .38 spcl.+P HP ammunition. so i am wondering if that is appropriate ammo to use so I can buy some more.
I just picked up this S&W Model 38 Airweight Bodyguard snubnose revolver. It is in great shape. Anyways it came with Federal .38 spcl.+P HP ammunition. so i am wondering if that is appropriate ammo to use so I can buy some more.
Kovach - I believe your M&P dates to the 1920's, if you or a qualified gunsmith determines it to be safe to shoot (as I said before read the sticky at the top of this forum) than I would limit it to standard pressure or light (cowboy) loads, heck its pushing 80 years it deserves a light workload.
You have a classic revolver, the basic design was fielded in 1899 and it has evolved over the years into the S&W Model 10 that is still in production. The pre-war Smith's have the smoothest double action pull and are a real joy to handle and shoot.
For $30 you can get a letter from Smith & Wesson telling you when and where the gun was originally shipped to - send a photo and as complete a description as possible to S&W, ATTN: Mr. Roy Jinks, PO Box 2208, Springfield, MA 01102.
You have a classic revolver, the basic design was fielded in 1899 and it has evolved over the years into the S&W Model 10 that is still in production. The pre-war Smith's have the smoothest double action pull and are a real joy to handle and shoot.
For $30 you can get a letter from Smith & Wesson telling you when and where the gun was originally shipped to - send a photo and as complete a description as possible to S&W, ATTN: Mr. Roy Jinks, PO Box 2208, Springfield, MA 01102.
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Irg - Your Bodyguard has an alloy frame, you may find it more comfortable to fire stanard velocity ammo thru it and just use the higher pressure/velocity ammo (+P) for carry or defensive use, maybe firing the +P ammo now and then but not on a regular basis. The standard velocity ammo will be cheaper. This is my opinion only - others will tell you that Bodyguard will stand regular +P use and it well might.
Jim Watson
Member
I agree with Will.
The M38 is not "rated" for +P but that is what I carry in mine. I shoot a very few every now and then for familiarization but practice with the standard stuff.
The M38 is not "rated" for +P but that is what I carry in mine. I shoot a very few every now and then for familiarization but practice with the standard stuff.
U
universal
Guest
If I am reading my serial number ranges correct, you pistol was made sometime between 1915 and 1942. It is a very nice pistol and I would agree with a lot of the others that you should not shoot +P ammo in it. If you want to find defense ammo for it, I would suggest looking for Hornady's 158 grain JHP. It should work pretty well with the longer barrel.
Well welcome... 
I presume that you have a Smith & Wesson, but since they (and others) made .38 Special revolvers, and S&W made several models, we'll need more of a description.
Is your gun a 5 or 6 shot model?
How long is the barrel? (measure from the front face of the cylinder to the muzzle).
Does it have a round or square butt?
Are the grips made out of checkered walnut, or some other material?
On most older S&W revolvers the serial number is located on the bottom of the butt, and may, or may not include some letters. You may also find the number stanped of the back of the cylinder, and on the underside of the barrel above the ejector rod. Swing out the cylinder to see it.
There may be patent dates stamped on top of the barrel. Knowing the last one could be helpful.
Is the revolver blued, nickel plated, or something else?
I presume that you have a Smith & Wesson, but since they (and others) made .38 Special revolvers, and S&W made several models, we'll need more of a description.
Is your gun a 5 or 6 shot model?
How long is the barrel? (measure from the front face of the cylinder to the muzzle).
Does it have a round or square butt?
Are the grips made out of checkered walnut, or some other material?
On most older S&W revolvers the serial number is located on the bottom of the butt, and may, or may not include some letters. You may also find the number stanped of the back of the cylinder, and on the underside of the barrel above the ejector rod. Swing out the cylinder to see it.
There may be patent dates stamped on top of the barrel. Knowing the last one could be helpful.
Is the revolver blued, nickel plated, or something else?
XavierBreath
Member
Fuff, there is a photo in post #6, the serial number is in post #10.
What kovach has appears to be a pre-war Smith & Wesson M&P, missing most of it's finish, five inch barrel, sporting a pair of 1970's grips.
I could be wrong on the finish, it could be nickel in a bad photo.
What kovach has appears to be a pre-war Smith & Wesson M&P, missing most of it's finish, five inch barrel, sporting a pair of 1970's grips.
I could be wrong on the finish, it could be nickel in a bad photo.
Don't mind the Old Fuff, he's.... well you know.... getting.... 
But anyway, Kovach63 started out in post #1 looking for informaton on a ".38 Special Ctg." By the time we got to posts #6 and #10 we knew it was a pre-war Miltiary & Police with worn nickel plate, a 5" barrel, 1970's stocks, and serial number 3917xx.
But now comes Doter, with a revolver of some sort, with the serial number 410xxx (maybe).
Hang on....... This will all come out in the wash... I hope.
But anyway, Kovach63 started out in post #1 looking for informaton on a ".38 Special Ctg." By the time we got to posts #6 and #10 we knew it was a pre-war Miltiary & Police with worn nickel plate, a 5" barrel, 1970's stocks, and serial number 3917xx.
But now comes Doter, with a revolver of some sort, with the serial number 410xxx (maybe).
Hang on....... This will all come out in the wash... I hope.
Lost Doter lol
ok top of barrel says ASS.U.S.A.PATENTED
T.14.O9.DEC.29.14
but then i open it to find 39260 stamped twice just below the where the barrel starts but inside so that its concealed when it is closed.
It is a six shot model. they look like they were probably checkered, but definately wal nut. Square butt just like spongebob lol
ok top of barrel says ASS.U.S.A.PATENTED
T.14.O9.DEC.29.14
but then i open it to find 39260 stamped twice just below the where the barrel starts but inside so that its concealed when it is closed.
It is a six shot model. they look like they were probably checkered, but definately wal nut. Square butt just like spongebob lol
XavierBreath
Member
Doter, I recommend you start another thread concerning your revolver. That way the confusion is kept to a minimum in this one.
Doter:
I think that the number you found, stamped on the frame, below where the barrel starts, is an assembly number, not the serial number. The serial number should be stamped on the bottom of the handle. The number 410xxx could be the correct serial number.
Without a picture I cannot tell for certain that you have a genuine Smith & Wesson revolver - unless there is a S&W trademark/logo stamped on the side of the frame.
To avoid further confusion on this thread I will reply to you by personal message, after this post.
I think that the number you found, stamped on the frame, below where the barrel starts, is an assembly number, not the serial number. The serial number should be stamped on the bottom of the handle. The number 410xxx could be the correct serial number.
Without a picture I cannot tell for certain that you have a genuine Smith & Wesson revolver - unless there is a S&W trademark/logo stamped on the side of the frame.
To avoid further confusion on this thread I will reply to you by personal message, after this post.
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