S&W 63 sprung yoke?

[springfield30-06]

Hello all,

I have a used 4" barrel S&W 63 (no dash) and I noticed that the rearward portion of the cylinder is rubbing against the frame when the cylinder is fully open. There is a wear mark behind the notches that the cylinder stop engages. I can also see that the ejector rod is slightly bent...

Could the bent ejector rod cause this or is this usually caused by a sprung yoke?

Thanks!

 

[ThomasT]

Pictures would really help with this problem. If you have a sprung yoke you will normally have a gap between the yoke and the frame when the cylinder is closed. Brownells sells a tool to repair this. If the ejector rod is bent it will wobble when you spin the cylinder with the cylinder open. The cylinder doesent ride on the ejector rod. It rides on a hollow cylinder/tube set into the yoke.

How old is your gun? Does it have the old style cylinder stop in the frame or the new stop that is cast into the frame? Again pictures would be a big help. I am not a fan of the new style stop. The old stop that was a stud set into the frame worked better and was more positive.

 

[springfield30-06]

Pictures would really help with this problem. If you have a sprung yoke you will normally have a gap between the yoke and the frame when the cylinder is closed. Brownells sells a tool to repair this. If the ejector rod is bent it will wobble when you spin the cylinder with the cylinder open. The cylinder doesent ride on the ejector rod. It rides on a hollow cylinder/tube set into the yoke.

How old is your gun? Does it have the old style cylinder stop in the frame or the new stop that is cast into the frame? Again pictures would be a big help. I am not a fan of the new style stop. The old stop that was a stud set into the frame worked better and was more positive.

I don't know the manufacture date but it is an older gun with the old style. I will attempt to get some photos posted.

 

[ontarget]

Yes, check that your ejector rod isn't bent. I bought an M&P that felt pretty good at the LGS but after a couple of cylinders it would start to bind. Turned out to be a very slightly bent ejector rod. Got a new one from Numrich and problem solved.

 

[springfield30-06]

Here are some photos:

 

[springfield30-06]

Yes, check that your ejector rod isn't bent. I bought an M&P that felt pretty good at the LGS but after a couple of cylinders it would start to bind. Turned out to be a very slightly bent ejector rod. Got a new one from Numrich and problem solved.

It does have a bent ejector rod and I have already ordered a new one.

 

[ontarget]

It does have a bent ejector rod and I have already ordered a new one.

I hope that cures your problem. Someone was probably spinning the cylinder and slamming it shut with a flip of the wrist. Or maybe shooting it without ever cleaning it so they had to pound on the ejector rod to get it to work.

 

[chicharrones]

I hope that cures your problem. Someone was probably spinning the cylinder and slamming it shut with a flip of the wrist. Or maybe shooting it without ever cleaning it so they had to pound on the ejector rod to get it to work.

Seeing that crane laying back at the top and the cylinder apparently rubbing the frame window, that right there is my guess too.

 

[jdavis123]

As you likely know, the ejector rod on your 63 has reverse threads. So, righty loosey, lefty tighty. As far back against the recoil shield as the cylinder is, I would bet that the ejector rod isn’t installed properly,

• The notches on your cylinder look slightly dinged as does the window for the cylinder stop. Perhaps someone tried to install a larger stop with out dressing the window slot.

At least it appears so in the photo.

 

[Armybrat]

Here’s an unbent one...

 

[Armybrat]

Dp

 

[ThomasT]

Looking at your pictures I am starting to think the stud set in the frame that keeps the cylinder from sliding off when the cylinder is open (frame lug) looks like it needs to be tapped back in. I have never seen one come out before but it is a separate piece. If its is in all the way maybe it just needs to be dressed down a little more.

Your ejector rod being bent will not make your cylinder wobble. The cylinder does not ride on the ejector rod as stated in post #2. If you look at this exploded view you will see that the crane (part #31) has a hollow tube that the cylinder rides on and the ejector rod just passes through it. If your cylinder has the rub mark all the way around it then it isn't wobbling. That rub mark in your photos is from the cylinder rubbing on the frame lug (part #29).

Your crane fits tight against the frame with the cylinder closed and I don't see anything wrong with it.

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/smith-wesson/revolvers-sw/10-sw

 

[ThomasT]

If you can' get your gun working like you think it should do NOT send it back to S&W. I have a HB model 10 I sent back to them at the first of the year because the barrel to cylinder gap measures .016". Way past what the specs call for. I just called S&W last week to see what the status was on the repair and per the phone person they haven't even looked at it yet.

And when they do the repair the cost will be on me because the gun is out of warranty. I guess if they build them wrong they only own up to sloppy work for a certain period of time. And they take their sweet ass time looking at something. This isn't Ruger you are dealing with. Ruger would have had this done within a couple of weeks. And most likely done the repair free of charge.

If you can't repair this yourself take your gun a real gunsmith. Not Smith & Wesson.

 

[ThomasT]

If this were my gun I would use a brass rod and with the gun setting on a block of wood with the cylinder removed I would tap on the frame stud and see if it seats any deeper. If it was in all the way I would use a jewelers file and make sure the step was dressed down to be even with the frame. In your last picture it looks like it is sticking out some and the rub mark makes me think its been that way a long time.

A bent ejector rod is easy to repair. I had a new model 629 pre lock IIRC and the rod was badly bent. S&W offered to repair it and even told me it wouldn't hurt anything. What I did was open the cylinder and with it braced turned the cylinder and held a magic marker close to the rod so the marker put a small mark on the high side where it was bent.

Then I held the cylinder with the high side of the rod at the top and gave it a little whack with a plastic hammer. I got it right the first shot because after that it ran straight as an axle.