Discussion in 'Handguns: Revolvers' started by Rem700CDLSF3006, Mar 3, 2017.
I have heard not sure its true but that Rugers is cast and Smiths is forged
I've owned two 686's and a GP100. Both models are excellent. One potential advantage of the 686 is the 7th round available in 686 Plus variants.
But if I could have only one gun, I would not be unhappy about that gun being a 686 or a GP100.
To add another factor -- if I were going to shoot .38 Special rounds most of the time, with only occasional forays into .357 Magnum, I would prefer a K frame .38/.357 S&W over either the 686 or GP100! The K frame has the same size grip as the 686 but is a tad narrower and lighter and smaller overall and just handles superbly.
love my 686, hate it has a canted barrel, and I haven't gotten around to requesting S&W fix it.
Yeah S&W has had some canted and misaligned barrel issues for sure.
I bought this 686 no dash in 1986. I love it. I had a choice of it or a Ruger (don't remember the model number) for about the same price.
I still have the box, papers a receipt. If I told you how much I paid for it you'd be upset at what they're going for today.
The Ruger GP100 Match Champion will give the Performance Center S&W SSR a run for its money. I got this sweetheart instead of a 686. It is NOT a garden variety GP100. The trigger & hammer are centered and shimmed in the frame, 4.2" barrel, action tuned, barrel milled and lightened, deep recessed crown, melted cylinder, fixed Novac rear sight factory regulated for 158 grain bullets...better trigger than either stock GP100's or Smith 686's. It balances easily in the hand and is not excessively muzzle heavy like stock GP100's.
This revolver has the best trigger of any of my revolvers, save only the N-Frame Mountain Gun I have in 45 Colt (but that gun has had a lot of work and is my most accurate revolver). The Match Champion out shoots my vintage Models 27 and 19.
This is my goto spring/summer ridge walking gun. I replaced the wood grip with a Pachmayr Diamond Pro rubber grip that fits my hand better, though the factory wood grips are pleasing to the eye. I carry it in a Diamond D Guide's Choist holster with two ammo slides and a speedloader case.
Give this model a look...I think it's well worth the premium price.
+100 Or better yet, if you can rent or borrow, shoot them.
Either way, get the one that "calls" to you. You won't regret either.
Oh, I think the way to go is to plan on owning both. It's just a question of which comes first. I say that because I would be really torn about which one to give up.
Yes, your plan is a good one.
I bought the S&W 686. When I took it to the range, I bought the Ruger GP100 MC on the way home.
The Smith & Wesson Model 686: one of the greatest revolvers ever made, in all of its many variants and finishes. I especially like the "Plus" model and the Model 586 and 581 models, with their blue finishes.
Yes, the Plus model is nice with its extra round. Nothing wrong with an extra round onboard.
I've had my 686 for 30 years, just gets better with time.
I'm a fan of the blued version.
I really like my new 586 and really hate the lock.
It has maybe 300 rounds through it, all but a few were 38's.
A few days ago I was down to the last two reloads in my pocket. I chambered them and the cylinder would not close. I examined the reloads for raised primers or some other defect and found none.
I re chambered the rounds and the cylinder closed but felt different. Tried to pull the hammer back and it was locked. Messed with the gun a little and noticed a rattle and the lock flag sticking up a little. I should mention I had never locked the gun or even taken the key out of the box.
I pushed the lock tab down with my finger and was able to pull the hammer back and fire the rounds. Neither the hammer or the trigger felt right. After repeatedly dry firing both single and double action it returned to what feels normal.
It has not done this since then but obviously there is something wrong. Something broke, a loose metal shaving? I will shoot more to see if it reoccurs and either send it in of take it apart.
The moral of the story is, I would never trust a Smith with a lock for a self defense gun.
Bo, if something is wrong with the ILS I would send it in to S&W. For many years they claim no problems so if everyone who does have a problem documents it, the problem can no longer denied.
I am curious about what one might call a "lock flag" that is visible on an assembled gun. Looking at the bag of ILS parts removed from my Smiths, I don't see an item I would call a flag or that would be visible without taking the gun apart. Personally, I would send the gun in to be checked out. From my experience, it won't likely be gone long and should not cost anything.
I'm sure "flag' isn't the correct name for the part. It say's "locked" and pops up beside the hammer when you lock it.
I see. Seems like "flag" is a good name for it. Thanks for the picture.
This has been said over and over again but, like others, I like them both. I personally went with the 5" GP100 but I absolutely will be adding a 686 to my collection at some point as well. For me, the GP100 just felt better in my hands, even though I felt that the triggers were slightly better on the 686's. Pick one and don't look back. Either will be around for your great grand kids if they are taken care of.
Well I went today and ordered my S&W 686 357 stainless
Barrel length? Six shot, seven shot?
There's no comparison between Ruger and S&W these days. Ruger's GP-100 models are boat anchors in my view. They whacked off some steel from the grip, added it to the barrel and ruined the balance of the guns. The SP-101s are fine, and some people can get used to the balance of a bad gun just like they can get used to the balance of a bad knife. The 686s are just heavy, but their balance is fine. I just wish one could opt for lighter guns. The old Model 66 is ideal (if you can get one of the new release models). And if you can find an old Security-Six Ruger, you're always going to be better off than with a GP-100. What happens is they beefed up a gun that didn't need to be beefed up. Some people say, "Well, there's less recoil." Yes, so let's add another eight ounces and reduce it even more! No one ever complained that the old 66 and Security-Sixes were too light. They said the 66/19s were not durable.
Many people hike, hunt, fish and camp, and they don't want the extra weight in guns that only shine at the range.
Really like the looks of your blued Model 586 and that Hogue Lamo Camo MonoGrip!
When the Security Six bears a concealable grip it can be quite punishing with serious 357 ammo, while that is no problem for a comparable GP100, in my estimation. I own both and reload something a notch lighter for the Security Six, which has a grip frame designed for open carry. The GP100 can use the compact grip to avoid poking out as much under a shirt, but as mostly a range gun, the 5" GP uses the full sized rubber grip with fancy inserts.
I wouldn't measure everything by what I would carry concealed. A range gun is exactly what I would want in many of these 357s and larger calibers. If I am going hunting or just tramping around the woods, I will take a longer barreled cannon of some sort and holster it crossdraw or in a shoulder rig. That is not the time I would be looking to beg off carrying some useful burden.
My GP100 in 357 is a 5" barrel, and I like it that way. It is steadier and a more "balanced" feel than the Match Champion (4" half lug). I like them both, because the MC is a decent carry gun. Then there is the 3" .41 Special GP. I don't carry the Security Six much of late, but when I do, I load with Speer Short Barrel to tone it down a bit. The custom Herret Detective grips enable realistic concealment of the square butt meant for open carry, but take away from being able to handle heavier recoil.
Wise choice, odds are, you won't be disappointed.
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