S&W Gurus, Please Advise NOOB On Condition/Trade Value For 586-1 Potential Trade

[LeftCoast]

Hi all,

This is my first thread at THR, and also my first potential trade for any revolver...my knowledge base is good with semi-autos, particularly Sigs, but not so good with wheelguns. If you could take a look at this potential 586-1 I'm considering trading for, it would put my mind at ease a little that I'm prepared with more information than I am now. The trade value of my weapon is $600.

I know the 586-1, 4-inch barrel, and seemingly original grips are generally considered more desirable...it's not a no dash, but it is a pre-lock. From basic info online I believe this weapon to be manufactured in 1986. I know there was a recall involving the firing pin around that time, and I wonder if the model number with an "M" in front of it means that this recall has already been performed. As you can see from the picture, the complete model number is "M586-1" and the serial number just above that on the frame (I believe) reads "AUR91XX."

My questions are pretty basic, namely am I correct that this revolver is from 1986?

Does it appear to have been abused, as it seems to me that 1986 might have been the last time this was detail-cleaned, or is this just showing 30 years of use? Will this grime and these discolorations clean-up with a lot of care and elbow grease? I'm a little thorough, perhaps borderline fanatical about detailing my Sigs after each range session, but I'm new to guns and want to make sure to record any excessive wear before it gets out of hand...I'm sure as I get more comfortable with my results, that cleaning schedule might stretch-out a little more.

Is the wear on the frame over/under the serial and model numbers any cause for concern, or just normal, honest wear from three decades of service?

The plate on the pistol's right side has some scratching on it, and also the frame at the top-left corner of the cylinder in the same pic as the plate (shooter's right) seems to have some weirdness going on there, like mild gouging...are these any cause for concern?

Does the weapon appear to have been reblued, or are there any "trouble spots" that may be rust bubbling-up under the bluing? Do the hammer and trigger appear to be original? (The side of the hammer looks unevenly worn, or is that just years of uncleaned carbon caking-on?

Any other things I haven't mentioned that might be issues? I know good lockup and good cylinder timing is essential to checking-out the weapon before trading...is there a FAQ link or Youtube vid or a brief explanation on what I'm both looking for, and what I'm looking to avoid while checking these two items? Also, how is the "lifetime" guarantee from S&W? Do they have good coverage as far as failures, or am I pretty-much on my own unless the frame cracks in half?

I apologize for the length of this initial post, and am very grateful even if you've hung-in this far just to read these questions you all have probably answered a million times, but I don't want my first S&W revolver to be a mistake. Even though this one looks a little rough to me, it IS 30 years old, but the real question I need to know does this weapon appear to be worth @ $600 in trade value? What range would you pay cash for it? If it's iffy, I can certainly wait and get one in better condition, but can I get a good 586-1 for anywhere near $600? This will probably be a range toy/home defense weapon...I mean I'll need something in my other hand, the one that's not holding my Sig P220 with 8+1 and a light on the rail anyways, right? I don't usually sell weapons, but the Sig in question I is new to me, and while I'd gladly keep it, I was looking to sell it and replace with a new, SAS version...then this trade possibility happened.

Again, thanks for any and all info, observations, and opinion you can give to this new member and revolver-virgin. I hear the 586 is one of the best revolvers S&W ever produced, which probably makes it one of the best revolvers ever made, so please help me to make a better-informed decision on this particular one.

I will be getting better pictures, hopefully tonight; I'd really like to see the entire left-hand side (shooter's left) of the pistol, to ensure it's no worse than the left side.

Thanks again, and here are the pics so far. For much higher resolution pictures you can blow-up, please click the five links directly over the pics:

Click on link, click on picture at tinylink.com, click on "View Raw Image," then click on raw image to magnify.:


http://i62.tinypic.com/2gwyog1.jpg
http://i58.tinypic.com/k9gnzd.jpg
http://i57.tinypic.com/nbrtki.jpg
http://i58.tinypic.com/2ugibki.jpg
http://i58.tinypic.com/saz5n6.jpg

 

[buck460XVR]

With the pictures supplied, it's hard for me to see the areas of concern you have. The gun appears to be 90% or so from what I see. How the gun locks up and how the forcing cone and chambers look would be critical in my judgement of it's value. Screws don't looked buggered to me and that is a good thing. As for a 586-1 in 90% being worth $600 cash, kinda depends. Around here that would be on the high side. On a even trade, it depends if the other firearm is valued on the high side also. If you think your trade in is worth $600 and you would like the 586, it locks up well and has no other mechanical issues, it's probably a decent trade for you. Is there a reason you want a 586 over a 686?

 

[LeftCoast]

Hi and thanks for the reply.

The picture links might give you a better look, and my own ignorance might be in play here as well.

The 586 actually chose me, as it was offered-up in trade for Sig I'm perfectly happy with, but am selling so I can upgrade to its SAS model, and take advantage of Sig's 2 Mags and a Bag promo for May. If I don't sell it, it'll be just fine as my Sig's easily at 95%. I've always wanted a .357 S&W, but it's more of a range toy than anything...a want, not a need. And I thought that there was a collectible factor in play, getting a 586-1 no-lock .357, but I guess that's not necessarily true. If it's just an even swap (or less), maybe I will just pass.

I can buy new S&Ws at a discount, so maybe when I want to fill my .357 magnum need I'll just do that, even if it has a lock and some MIM parts.

Thanks again for the info, and I'll be here getting my S&W knowledge up to par!

 

[bannockburn]

LeftCoast

Sounds like from your description (sorry but couldn't really tell from the photos), that this particular Model 586 has seen it's share of use, along with a somewhat lackadaisical approach to care and maintenance. There are some much nicer condition Model 586s on Gunbroker right now, albeit at a higher asking price. I think I would pass on this one and look elsewhere for a slightly used or new S&W .357 revolver.

 

[rswartsell]

Agree with bannockburn,

If you are meticulous about your handguns, and the previous owner wasn't I have doubts about you being satisfied long term. Not that I can see anything really wrong with the Smith but depending on what SIG you may have the short end of the true commercial value by a bit.

The stainless steel 686 is more popular and will be more durable at least for minor finish issues. Yes, pre-locks command a premium but still a matter of debate just how practical an issue it really is and pre-locks can still be found. Kind of a wash blue finish (less desirable) vs pre-lock (more desirable) for MOST users.

You could not IMHO pick a better first Smith if the .357 chambering is your cup of tea than the 586/686. I just wouldn't let an unplanned opportunity create a false sense of urgency to settle. Whenever I have, I have lived to regret it at least mildly.

 

[Twiki357]

It doesn’t look that bad to me. Original case hardened target (wide) hammer and trigger and the stocks look to be original and in good condition. You don’t have pics of a few critical areas like the forcing come, but other than a few scratches over 30 years, it looks in pretty good condition. Just wait and see what it looks like when it’s 100 years old. This gun has the hammer mounted firing pin so the recall would not apply to it.

 

[hAkron]

I don't see the "M" stamp indicating that this gun has had its firing pin bushing replaced under the recall. I believe all 686, 681, 586, & 581 no dash and -1 guns contained the defective part. S&W even recently still honored the recall though I don't know if they have ended that or not, so that might be a deal breaker, or at least a bargaining point.

http://firearmsid.com/recalls/FA_Recalls 5.htm

 

[Zaydok Allen]

Agree with bannockburn,
.

Me too. I'd pass on that personally and look for a nicer one.

 

[rcmodel]

The pictures are too dark and blury for me to even form an opinion.

Look for flame cutting on the top strap, forcing cone erosion, etc, to tell if it's been rode hard yet.

And just for your info?
You DO NOT 'detail Strip' a revolver every time you shoot it.

Any more then you 'detail strip' your fine watch every time you look at it to see what time it is.

rc

 

[rswartsell]

^ LOL,

Good one! And I agree.

In this case if you buy the weapon and you feel that to your standards it has been neglected, do it once (I use a soak in Ed's Red as a part of my SOP in such circumstances).

Then I truly doubt you will ever need to do so again if no internals break and you educate yourself in proper revolver lubrication (read learn to avoid over-lubing). A lot of revolver sins arise from unnecessary and inexpert dis assembly/reassembly.

If you do it at all make SURE you have the proper tools (especially correct screwdrivers) and an expert step by step (often available on youtube if you are discriminating about who you trust on "idiot-tube"). It can be done but it sure stings when you foul it up. A soak in a good solvent and blown out with compressed air or propellant using non-chlorine brake cleaner is likeley all that would be needed even in a 30 year over-lubricated revolver. If you MUST know the gun and for sure what's happening a careful one time should be sufficient.

Smith side plates are more fragile than they seem and so damn well made that when they fall into place the border lines should virtually disappear. This sometimes requires patience, holding your jaw just right, a holy-spiritual arrangement of brass fired by the gun in question OR an experienced revolver smith to reassemble (who will then make it look so easy you feel a bit foolish for paying him). You aren't foolish, a sprung side plate is at least a minor disaster.

P.S. rcmodel had to walk me through one such challenge! For some reason not all are that cantankerous, they all (recent Smiths) have a hammer block snaking up a channel on the inside of the plate but just a few decide to test you severly. Wouldn't be at all surprised if blemishes on the side plate mark someones first foray into such as this.