Got my first revolver, a unfired S&W 586 no dash

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FIVETWOSEVEN

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Due to me not using my Interarms AK74, I decided to trade it for something that I'd actually use. I had my heart set on getting a revolver and posted it for trade asking for one. After getting a few offers that weren't even revolvers, I got a text offering this unfired 4" Smith and Wesson 586, no dash, and unfired with the inspector sticker on the bottom of the grip.

The guys dad bought it from a Smith and Wesson employee back in the 80s and it was eventually passed down to him and it was never shot and it easily looks like he's being truthful. Came with the original box, paper work, and cleaning kit and sight tool in an unopened package.

Sorry for no pictures at the moment but I'll post them later when I have more time and better lighting.

Can someone enlighten me on what I should check out on my revolver since it doesn't have a dash?
 
the 586 & 586-1 are subject to a recall. Some guns, when fired with magnum ammo, can have the primer flow back into the firing pin bushing and lock up the cylinder. S&W will pay shipping both ways and install a new firing pin and bushing. Call customer service if you want to have your gun modified.
Modified guns are marked with an M stamp near the model number under the cylinder yoke.
 
Hello friends and neighbors // Nice snag/save on an outstanding revolver.

The 586 will last most folks a life time, if properly maintained.
The Hogue, finger groove, rubber grips have become my favorite for both the 6" and 4".
These give me good control shooting .357 and are slim enough to make even the 6" a CCW choice. ( say for hiking)

I have seen folks with older NIB revolvers, they intend shooting occasionally, apply a coat of car wax to help prevent scratches and handling marks. Doesn't last long but seems to work, I have not tried this yet YMMV.

Good luck with the 586 be it daily use, range toy or safe King, you have a fine revolver.


I have had the mods done by S&W and it goes exactly as Radagast describes. I had the 586 shipped thru my local Gun Shop. Got it back the day after the letter saying they had received it. Just over a week I believe but that was several years ago and I'm fuzzy on the turnaround time.

Enjoy the search.
 
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nickel or blued? I am on the hunt for a nickel 586 6" in good condition. I adore the x86 platform, not sure what all the Python fuss is about.
 
nickel or blued? I am on the hunt for a nickel 586 6" in good condition. I adore the x86 platform, not sure what all the Python fuss is about.

Blued with a 4" barrel. 6" barrels don't really appeal to me.
Oh boy...... I hope some of our Colt DA revolver officionados don't see this. Big old can of worms.

I shot a 4" Python once, had a very nice and short DA trigger pull but I can't comment on the accuracy. For the money I'll keep my 586. :)
 
A nice 586 is one of the best guns that S&W has ever built. 4 in. makes it even better. Compared to a properly tuned S&W trigger Pythons suck. (IMO)
 
A nice 586 is one of the best guns that S&W has ever built. 4 in. makes it even better. Compared to a properly tuned S&W trigger Pythons suck. (IMO)

My wife will not let me shoot her no dash 586.:) I had to get my own 686. Both are 4"

A 4" is handier to carry but a 6" is easier to shoot at longer ranges. So, the choice is based on the use of the revolver.
 
I can't wait to see pictures, that is a score beyond belief. I do offer a no-charge break in service for these orphan revolvers in the event you cannot find the time :)
 
You guys with the NIB looking no - wow.. looking good!
I tell everyone most of mine are bottom shelf shooters but this BSS is still my favorite and looks pretty good at this angle even after years of use/carry.

S&W586.jpg

I know... bad call, using white paracord to widen the grip on the Bucklite 185 but the dirt and grime are all mine.

Hope the OP puts up a pick soon.
 
Nice buy.

I have a 4 inch 586 no dash that I bought about 3 years ago. Other than sentimental family guns, it is my favorite revolver.

My cylinder would bind up with factory magnum loads. I sent it to Smith for the recall. Now I can shoot anything through it.

Great guns. I've shot pythons and would never trade my 586 for a any python.
 
Outstanding in everyway, grips like those too often get replaced before selling...lucky

I'm keeping them on because I like the look and feel. I will take the inspection sticker off though and put that somewhere on the box or owners manual.

My cylinder would bind up with factory magnum loads. I sent it to Smith for the recall. Now I can shoot anything through it.

How many rounds should I fire to test it? I don't want to send it back if it isn't broken.
 
Why not send it in? It's free and should only take a week or two at the most. S&W obviously took the recall seriously enough to still honor it today.
 
Nice score on an excellent revolver.

How many rounds should I fire to test it? I don't want to send it back if it isn't broken.

It's not so much the round count as the type of ammo. Of those that exhibit the problem, it is caused by primer flow back into the firing pin hole in the recoil shield, causing the cylinder to bind. This usually results from magnum rounds if the problem exists.

The thing to do, if you don't reload, is to try different ammo and see if the problem exists. If no binding occurs I wouldn't worry about it. If you do reload, you can tame them down and should not have any problem.

I have a 6" no-dash & -3, neither have the problem and have not had the modification done.

As far as sending it to S&W, there's no issue and they will make the modification. You will find an "M" stamped on the grip part of the frame (will be covered by those awesome stocks).

However, any more, I am less inclined to send any firearm for work unless absolutely necessary, especially one like a 586 because it has a the potential to get "lost" on the to and from S&W. Something that's replaceable easily maybe not so worried.

You're going to really like that gun.


.
 
It's not so much the round count as the type of ammo. Of those that exhibit the problem, it is caused by primer flow back into the firing pin hole in the recoil shield, causing the cylinder to bind. This usually results from magnum rounds if the problem exists.

What I'm asking is that if I fire magnum ammo through it, would it be apparent right away or would it take a few rounds before it binds up?
 
Don't bother waiting.

What if it binds up during at a critical time? It's a liability, just do it.

Mine never bound up with mid range handloading, but bound up with the first cylinder of factory 125's.

I love it even more now that I KNOW it's good to go.
 
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