S&W M17 Barrel not aligned

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Maybe there was not too much torque applied but once the barrel was turned too far, it is clear that there is not enough material for the barrel to be turned back and stay in place without a few tricks.
 
I went and looked at my Smiths, only two, a 66 No Dash and a Model 10 is perfect. The other 4 are ever so slightly off, not even close to yours but not perfect. I never even thought to look for that and wonder what is considered “within tolerance”?
 
Maybe there was not too much torque applied but once the barrel was turned too far, it is clear that there is not enough material for the barrel to be turned back and stay in place without a few tricks.
Very true. It needs to have a thread added, and the forcing cone re-cult accordingly.
 
I went and looked at my Smiths, only two, a 66 No Dash and a Model 10 is perfect. The other 4 are ever so slightly off, not even close to yours but not perfect. I never even thought to look for that and wonder what is considered “within tolerance”?

My experience with S&W customer service representatives is that there is some leeway on how they handle things. While some will proboably send a return label and technical staff will properly address the problem, others will probably tell you that as long as the adjustable rear sight can compensate for it, there is not problem.

All S&W revolvers that I have in my personal inventory have the barrels well aligned and when I buy one, this is something I am spending attention on, since this is nothing easy and fast to fix. S&W stretches a yoke to adjust end shake and that is the standard factory procedure but end shake bearings have been successfully used since decades. The same procedure can be applied to the barrel.
 
I went and looked at my Smiths, only two, a 66 No Dash and a Model 10 is perfect. The other 4 are ever so slightly off, not even close to yours but not perfect. I never even thought to look for that and wonder what is considered “within tolerance”?
For an adjustable sight gun they'd likely say that if the sights will compensate for it it's within spec. For a fixed sight gun I have no idea. The only thing I can say for sure is there's a lot of ground between within their tolerance and within my tolerance.
 
Very true. It needs to have a thread added, and the forcing cone re-cult accordingly.

And most likely the barrel will need to be also cut again to have the right clearance to the cylinder and then be trued. It is a very small distance that needs to be added to allow the right friction fit.

Old_Grouch,
there was the babbit man in the Colt factory in the old times to adjust the POI with a good smack on the barrel of fixed sighted guns.
 
For an adjustable sight gun they'd likely say that if the sights will compensate for it it's within spec. For a fixed sight gun I have no idea. The only thing I can say for sure is there's a lot of ground between within their tolerance and within my tolerance.

My revolvers range from early 60’s, mostly 70’s and 90’s with only one recent manufacture. The 70’s Model 66’s are spot on, my 60’s Model 15 is “ever so slightly” meaning you really have to knit pick to see it. I am really amazed I never knew this was something to look for. And yes the Op’s revolver would set my OCD off. My Model 15 is my best shooter and the fact that I really had to look long and hard I can live with it. I feel for the OP. We save and search for these fine examples of American quality and do get stuck with a poor example now and then.
 
I've fixed several over torqued barrels or misaligned depending on how you want to describe them. Made my own barrel vise and an action wrench from an oak plank. Without removing the pin, you can loosen the barrel slightly and then tighten it until the barrel is lined up again. On my revolvers that has maintained plenty of barrel torque and the guns have shot perfectly. Most recently done on a .41 Magnum 57 no dash. The rear sight WAY off to the right bugged the crap out of me even though the gun shot just fine.
 
I'd be almighty tempted to clamp the barrel up in a leather jawed vise, and stick a hammer handle thru' the cylinder window.
If there is indeed a little play in the pinned barrel system, you may be able to pull it straight.
Don't go all medieval on it, but put a little arm on it and see what happens.
Moon
 
I'd be almighty tempted to clamp the barrel up in a leather jawed vise, and stick a hammer handle thru' the cylinder window.
If there is indeed a little play in the pinned barrel system, you may be able to pull it straight.
Don't go all medieval on it, but put a little arm on it and see what happens.
Moon
That's where I'd be headed.
 
I'd be almighty tempted to clamp the barrel up in a leather jawed vise, and stick a hammer handle thru' the cylinder window.
If there is indeed a little play in the pinned barrel system, you may be able to pull it straight.
Don't go all medieval on it, but put a little arm on it and see what happens.
Moon
If the barrel is indeed over torqued, the force necessary to turn it back might crack the frame. It is not recommended to use any lever through the frame but a tool that goes over it.
 
It’s easily “fixed”. I have aligned several, but I’m equipped to do so.
As another stated, in that time period,it wasn’t a high priority with S&W management to prevent such from escaping the farm...

It also used to be a “thing” to CORRECT the non-adjustable sight guns such as the Model 10 that didn’t hit where they “looked”. In fact, most don’t shoot to point of aim...
It involved placing the frame in a vice and whacking the barrel with a lead bar! Then re-fire to determine new POI.

All this forgotten knowledge sure makes me feel OLD!
 
My experience with S&W customer service representatives is that there is some leeway on how they handle things. While some will proboably send a return label and technical staff will properly address the problem, others will probably tell you that as long as the adjustable rear sight can compensate for it, there is not problem.


A 17-3 places it in the 40 to 50 year old
category with out-of-production features.

I can't remember exactly when S&W began it's "lifetime warranty", before that, they only gave a 1 year warranty. Even if the gun was built after the inclusion of the lifetime warranty, it seems the OP is not the original owner...one of the conditions of the "lifetime warranty". In either case, getting S$W to fix it for free would be a gift, altho I know they have been, in the past, very generous about standing behind their guns. In that case, if it bothers the OP that bad, I would seek out a good local Smith to fix it. Otherwise I would just shoot it after kicking myself for missing it at the POS.
 
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